Partially correct. The hybrid tune he does utilizes maf for idle and cruising and partial throttle then switches to SD at wot. However, unless I am wrong, you need a straight line before and after the maf to negate turbulent air to get a good flow across the sensor, preferably about 3 to 4 inches on both sides.

You are right though, it will be better than the original design.

If guys remember, I used to epoxy air flow straighteners into the pipes in fear of rough idle and harsh partial but I placed enough straight section into the pipe to negate the honeycomb. The mafs actually don't care about turbulent air at wot as the engine is ingesting so much air that it numbs the sensor.

I had to use them in mine also, if the air isn't evenly split and straight it will make you crazy!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll sketch out my planned design for new charge pipe and see what you guys think. I knew I should try to have straighter air before the sensor but hadn't really contemplated after the sensor.

There's two ideas; one literally puts the MAF before the TB then the pipe bends away. So it would be going straight into the TB a couple inches past the sensor. This limits how much straight pipe can be pre-sensor as there is only about an extra inch of clearance for routing towards the inner fender and shock tower than the stock Stillen piece.

The second is to have slight bends at the TB then straighten out again, which is there the MAF would be, then Y together and make the last bend back towards tophe blower. This would provide pretty straight air both before and after the sensor.

Also contemplated is how to make sure the air before the Y will be separated into the two pipes to maintain the same flow to each - or am I overthinking that last part and isn't co pletely necessary.

Both of those comments each address an aspect of my last question there. Thanks!

The straight before the y is critical! The first pipes I had made had a slight bend before the y and it totally didn't work! The pipe to the outside of that bend got way more air than the inside pipe. If the car sees the MAFs get to far apart the car goes into some safety mode and goes crazy rich and you can't tune it away.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's too bad I sold my bender or I could experiment on my own in the garage before having someone make a pretty one for me lol

One of those tools you don't use much, but is absolutely irreplaceable when you need it.

Otherwise if I was to go just SD tune I could save myself a whole lot of grief and just do this.

http://www.the370z.com/members/chase...7-img-2504.jpg

Ahhh...the Q50 that boasts power but runs without a filter..lol. Is it still breathing?

So far so good yeah. Think he runs a K&N or whatever for Street and one of those ones that is barely more than mesh on the track. Something like that anyways.

It looks like it would work but EVOHUNTER tried something like that with Seb tuning his car and they ran out of MAF. I would think if that was an option Seb would have done that on his car unless it was a 7AT car.

I dont think ecutek was released at that point and uprev cant tune SD. The way the mafs are separated like that would absolutely not work for hybrid maf tuning as the separation would freak the throttle bodies out. When set like that they are used only for temp readings back to the ecu. Which still sucks because that isnt the real temp anyway going into the engine since they are pre cooler. He would have been better off placing the mafs in the manifold after the cooler, which would have cost more to machine the mani out.

That could be the case but it seems crazy that it was that long ago! My car has been flashed with Ecutek 111 times at this point.

Speaking of crazy....111 times!

Maybe he just didnt want to fork up the $ to get the MAP sensor and new software/cable.

No, that would have to be full speed density tuning for sure.

After chatting with the guy that's going to fab my new pipe for me, he's going to toss a couple MAF flanges in the Stillen charge pipe just like that G above so Seb can get me a SD base tune to get the car started and I can drive it over to his shop. I'll use the Stillen BPV for that trip as well.

Originally was going to go off the charade pipe I have and not bring the car but this Stillen pipe is so tweaked I wouldn't even tconsider using it as a reference for the final product.

It your comment does bring up one question. Seb's MAP kit is on is way to me right now, and he wants my to drill and tap it into the manifold between the TB's right above that barbed brass Stillen line. This would still out the MAP, where he will get his IAT's from, BEFORE the intercooler in the manifold- not after like you're suggesting.

Plus, the Stillen location of the MAP actually IS after the intercooler/aftercooler whatever you want to call it. There's some disimile here that I'd be interested in clearing up.

I'm only at about a dozen times with Ecutek flashes, up by the time this build is done between now and spring it will probably be two dozen more lol

Good thing Seb gives a year of free updates :D

Next fall I'll probably tear down again for A/A this time and be in the what, maybe 40-50 range?

It how the heck do you get 111??? :icon17:

As long as the MAP sensor is in the manifold it doesnt matter where it is as it only reads pressure. The MAFs read airflow and temp. By placing the mafs after the cooler they will be unable to read airflow but will read accurate temps. This would require a tune that is 100% speed density reliant. I am not sure how the car acts under these conditions as that is why sebs tunes a hybrid off mafs and map. That way under any other condition other than wot mafs are utilized reading air flow which, for what i have always understood/read, creates a much better readout so the car runs smoother. I have heard 100% SD tuned cars run crappy when out of wot, which is where you will be 99% of the time your in the car. But, maybe he can tune it to run great with just an SD tune.

This is just for a base time to get it rolling, but he has mentioned full SD tuning in he past to me when we first started talking about the concept. I believe it was someone else that told me SD can have a rougher idle, don't think it was him anyways.

Guess I'll get s little idea of what it's like with the baseline tune though. Be interesting to find out if nothing else.

Though your comment does make me wonder what the point is of the new MAP kit then. If it doesn't matter where in the manifold it is, what's wrong with just using stillens location instead of dropping $300 to relocate it.

I think I have been told that also. I wouldn't think it would matter on the hybrid MAF/SD because my understanding is that the MAF is only used on the low in, I could be wrong but I'm sure Seb can tell you.

My understanding is you are correct in that.

I looked back at my emails with Seb and h said the Stillen location provides poor readings compared to tapping the new one between the TB's.