Post-turbo I do all work on it other than fab work. Dealer is hit or miss. My dealer had no issues when I was N/A modded. Post turbo they told me not to bother to bring it in as they wouldn't touch it. Went to the other local dealer and not only will they work on it, they will cover it under the warranty as long as it isn't drive train related.

That being said. If you walk this path just understand that you probably set fire to your factory warranty.

I can't think of anything I'd want the dealer jacking around under my car. Last time someone else messed around with something they left one of my wastegate vacuum lines just dangling and it almost had a hole rubbed through it. Nobody touches crap unless I'm right there. It's been said that this is the benefit to a self install and sure enough it is a priceless experience.

Not to mention the jack offs at the dealer likely have no idea how to deal with a turbo car in the first place. That might start to change now that the new platform is TT but there's still a huge difference between factory and aftermarket turbo setups.

I'm thinking our CMAK will fit, Who wants to give it a shot?

Somebody get me a pic from the side where the hole for the slave line is in the bell housing with charge pipe in place?

Better yet, Sasha, just send me a kit at no charge so we can get this checked ;)

If you want to send me a free CMAK kit, I'll give it a shot.

We're not dropping your transmission if nothing's broken. :roflpuke2:

Ask Isamu what happens when dealer asshats work on cars......:eekdance:



'burnin' down the house'.......:icon14:

Where are you located at?

Hahaha...I'll get on it...you'll have a kit in your mail box tomorrow :).

Best I can find handy...:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psnv02bp3l.jpg

Does anyone have a vid or uses this kit with open dump wastegates?


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I still have 4 V1.5 kits around that I would like to move. I am thinking either tuner kits for $5,000 (no oil cooler) or I can just sell these as the pipe kits (no turbo, BOV, wastegates, oil lines, exa pump..etc) just exhaust and FMIC with pipes, clamps and couplers for around $3,000.

These will still get you 600whp on pump.

I had Sasha build me a cap for where my waste gates recirculate and the dump pipes. I've run it some with open gates. It is nasty loud..... :D

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U got any vids when it been open dump?


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It really isn't that loud :confused:

No unfortunately I don't have any videos.

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Final tune.
Blue: WG boost 8psi
Red: EBC LO boost 10psi
Green: EBC Hi boost 11.5

Any suggestions on some grippy drag radials?

Who tuned and what fuel you running? IF anything then E85, careful w/ that 11.5psi tune, that's pushing quite a bit of tq timing wise.

Not necessarily. If you pull timing you can run more boost and keep the torque down. But if you ramp boost you do need to make sure you don't pull too much timing. Too little timing is just as bad as too much.

Vince @ R/T tuning

Homie know his stuff

These kits are ready to ship :)

:iagree:

Yep, he's been known to tune a car or two.

By the way Just picked up some MT's S/S street drag radials, most amazing tire I've ever purchased, barely any slip from first gear launch.

Anyone replaced their MAF for this kit or they hold up well to the air flow ??

The charge pipes are 3" diameter, and as far as I know, I have not had any customers max them out.

you said you had some v1.5 kits left what is the main difference?

The crossover manifold is redesigned for V2.0 allowing for different turbo sizes and compressor covers. Other than that they are identical.

That is correct. I have 4 of the V 1.5's kicking around at a big time discount. These are also available with a triple ceramic ball bearing oil-less turbo.

Instead of a 4" inlet and 2.5" outlet on the compressor cover with the V 2.0, you get a turbo that has a 3" inlet and 2" outlet. Performance wise, there is no difference unless you plan on pushing past 25psi of boost.

At full load I'm running 4.6V. There's still plenty of room with stock MAFs.

Can you PM me some info and what kind of big time discount these 1.5s :)

What kind of turbo?

PM'd

Also curious about that big time discount on the 1.5 kit. :)

Oddly enough, I have received 6 PM's (price inquiries) on the V 1.5's that I have in stock. So here it is....

Tuner kits for $6,000 shipped, with an oil less triple ceramic ball bearing 6267 turbo.

This also includes a 30 row oil cooler kit with thermostatic sandwich plate. A total discount of about $800 over the V 2.0.

If you wish to make it a turn key kit, add another $1,150 to cover the cost of 750cc injectors, UpRev and fuel pump.

Sasha

BP V 2.0 turbo kits...ROUND 3 place your order now
 

If you think you would ever consider pressing the stock block, either on pump or E85, I highly recommend 1000cc injectors. If you are going in there might as well just swap them once.

Of course Sasha's can tune wouldn't work anymore.

Yes, for E85 1000cc injectors are a good idea. These are also available for an additional $120 or so.

As for the can tune...it would work, the map is re-scaled. Customer would still need a custom tune, but your would most definitely be able to start and drive the car to your local tuner.

First HR kit going out:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxlgumjw8.jpg

I finally swapped out my air filter. It's kinda of a pain in the bum since the air filter is so well tucked and protected. OMG!!! I did not think my car would sound this different! I guess 11k+ miles can really clog up the air filter. My turbo spins a lot more freely now. She is noticeably louder now. I guess I might have to visit the drag strip tomorrow just to hear her scream.

YzGyz

Should be a decent night if the rain stops and the track dries out. Temps in the high 50s.

Hmmm, so every 10K miles, the filter is so dirty that changing it causes the car to sound different, and the turbo to spool quicker? That doesn't sound good to me. Plus, it's a PITA thing to change it/clean it. Are you sure this isn't a case of "I changed my oil, or waxed my car, and now it's faster" ? Because you didn't mention how the new filter looked in comparison to the old. And, why didn't you just clean it?

I think we need more info on this. Is the filter really that prone to getting dirty? If so, can anything be done to help alleviate this?

Mark

If the filter is getting overly dirty, a filter sock can be added. If this is a V 1 or 1.5, the filters were bright yellow, and could look very dirty due to the color contrast of dust/dirt and bright yellow color.