My kit has arrived! WOOOOOP!

jwick · 12-22-2015, 02:13 PM

Rotella Synthetic. Get it at Autozone.

Jayhovah · 12-22-2015, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Rotella Synthetic. Get it at Autozone.

Weight/visco?

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jwick · 12-22-2015, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayhovah

Weight/visco?

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Only one option. It's T6 I think and I believe it's 5W-40. It's diesel but don't worry it basically eliminates blow by.

jwick · 12-22-2015, 02:14 PM

If you have the room after the filter sandwich plate, IC piping and lines I recommend using the Pathfinder oil filter from the bigger V6. Same diameter but it's longer so you get a little more filter area.

jwick · 12-22-2015, 02:41 PM

It's the blue bottle

EliteXpress · 12-22-2015, 02:45 PM

Rotella T6 Full Synthetic for me TOO! Good stuff...

Chuck33079 · 12-22-2015, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayhovah

What oil do you guys run in your forced cars? Need to pick some up next time we are out.

Also, we drained the radiator... Doesn't say to in the manual, but we figured it would alleviate some mess when we run the coolant lines.

Might as well go to less coolant and more water when you fill it up. Those turbos are oil and water cooled, right?

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Rotella Synthetic. Get it at Autozone.

Quote:

Originally Posted by EliteXpress

Rotella T6 Full Synthetic for me TOO! Good stuff...

These guys have the right idea. Works great, and a hell of a lot cheaper than Redline of Amsoil.

Jayhovah · 12-22-2015, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Might as well go to less coolant and more water when you fill it up. Those turbos are oil and water cooled, right?

These guys have the right idea. Works great, and a hell of a lot cheaper than Redline of Amsoil.

Yep.

Thanks for the suggestions guys we will do that!

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Jayhovah · 12-22-2015, 04:47 PM

We are struggling to get the passenger side turbo manifold on. A heat shield covering evap and fuel hard lines hits the manifold. Any ideas? Going to take pics.

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Jayhovah · 12-22-2015, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayhovah

We are struggling to get the passenger side turbo manifold on. A heat shield covering evap and fuel hard lines hits the manifold. Any ideas? Going to take pics.

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Solved. There is a fuel line and shielding mod THIRTY PAGES LATER in the instructions that should have put in right after tear down. It's pretty clear to me that different techs wrote different sections of the manual and they were assembled together without a ton of thought.

Jayhovah · 12-22-2015, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayhovah

Solved. There is a fuel line and shielding mod THIRTY PAGES LATER in the instructions that should have put in right after tear down. It's pretty clear to me that different techs wrote different sections of the manual and they were assembled together without a ton of thought.

Not solved. The shield we replace covers a fuel line and an evap line. The fuel line gets extended and the shield is replaced, but the pictures show the evap line just disconnected. Are we supposed to leave it that way?

I've uploaded the instructions to my google drive, here is the link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9s...ew?usp=sharing

The procedure in question is on page 77. On the other kits does the evap hose just get left unconnected?

Jayhovah · 12-22-2015, 11:43 PM

Gamma has set up a two hour window tomorrow for phone support. It is a Christmas miracle. Today was a rough one with all the snags... All we really accomplished was getting the drivers side manifold snugged into place, not even torqued. I am concerned about the time line but hopeful it gets easier after the manifolds.

They did confirm that the purge hose is connected even though the instructions do not show it. Our fuel hard line is positioned in a way where we can not fit the gamma heat shield so we are still stuck on the passenger manifold.

Wish us a little more luck tomorrow. Time to rest.

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Jayhovah · 12-24-2015, 12:07 AM

Another long day. We Finally got tech support as promised this morning and it has been a HUGE help. It doesn't feel like much got done today, but it was productive in getting us over the hurdles that have been plaguing us.

Got the drivers side manifold torqued, drivers side lower water hose replaced. Broke a clamp on the upper hose. Finally understood WTF is going on with the fuel/purge lines on the pass side. Removed main harness cover on pass side and begun rewrapping it, finished preassembly and wastegate tensioning for both turbos.

While under the car I noticed that it also already has SPC front and rear camber arms. Not sure if the springs are factory or not.. didn't really notice if it was dropped and I only had it for a matter of hours before we started tearing it down.
Picked up some T6 oil as folks here have suggested! Thanks!

I want to leave a bunch of notes for GrooveStyle (Same kit, a few days behind us) here while they are fresh in my mind before sleep... Also, our support suggested we might be able to help refine the manual when we finally finish..

Install the replacement water hose (above drivers side manifold) BEFORE you put in the drivers side exhaust manifold (manual has it after). We did it after, and it took some pretty out of the box thinking to get the damn hose on (dont even want to try and explain). The hose won't block access to any of the manifold nuts.

Also, you will need to remove the pointless bracket which is held on by two bolts at the back of the head on the drivers side, otherwise the hose and manifold do not both fit. there is no mention of this in the manual.

Speaking of the manifold nuts (drivers side), the bottom three and the rear top are accessed from the bottom of the car with a socket. The top front two have to be turned about a quarter turn at a time with an open ended wrench. We had to bend the hard water lines away from the block a few mm to reach.

The fuel line mod (page 76) should be partially performed before the passenger manifold is installed (somewhere around pg 45). The manual just shows you a picture with no purge hose and tells you to do it like that and it's impossible. 1) the purge hose stays on. 2) You have to bend the fuel hard line a little more than it is, then bend it toward the chassis/back of rhe car so it isnt pointed directly away from the chassis (which will make it impossible to install the new heat shield). We increased the factory bend with a tubing bender, then I bent it towards the back of the car (and closer to the chassis) with my hands.

When you add the fuel line extension, you have to push in that black piece and slip it over then release and it should be on there sturdy. DO NOT just try to force it on... that is what we did and it crinkled the epoxy coating on the hardline. Support suggested we strip it back all the way to the second bevel but we werent able to peel it and we ended up having to burn the coating off with a torch. Not fun to put a torch on a fuel line that still has some gas in it (got a little vapor flame). We are considering adding a soft clamp to hold the lines against the chassis as the instructed setup will still make contact with the heat shield. You'll want to put the supplied shield on AFTER you get your passenger manifold on.

Speaking of the passenger manifold, mine made contact with a plastic casing over the main wiring harness. As instructed by support, we've removed that casing (one bolt, one clip that you will need super long needle nose to reach) which required a lot of wrap to be cut away. We are rewrapping the harness and will heat wrap it and zip tie it in place. Hoping to get the passenger manifold on tomorrow when we complete all the dressings.

We also plan to heat wrap the AC line on the drivers side as it hangs a little close to the turbo, though it is more on the compressor side so not a huge worry.

When you are prepping the turbos... The drivers side the manual says to hook up the water feed line with the straight end. This line does not exist. There is a water line with a straight end, but this is the crossover line. I assume they meant the feed line which has a 45 on one end instead of two 90s. I guess I'll find out when I put them in.

On the passenger side turbo, my wastegate actuator rod didn't clear the bracket (could hook it up, but it made a little contact in the full closed position). I think this might have been a manufacturing defect, as the metal had ballooned out a little when the bracket was bent. I ended up having to grind a couple of mm of the bracket to give the actuator rod free movement. Also, orient the actuator so the nipple is facing the the heat shield you install on it. I got confirmation this is the proper orientation from our support guy.

I think that is everything we went through today... I hope it helps you man!

GrooveStyle · 12-24-2015, 08:19 AM

Wow, awesome notes, thanks for that! I'm to the point where the manifold is removed now, and had to head out for the holidays, but will continue next week.

Jayhovah · 12-24-2015, 11:58 PM

Merry Christmas boys and girls! I am exhausted, but I believe we are finally getting over the hump. I'm going to start writing these notes up like a blog so I can go back and redline the manual when this whole thing is finished... and also for anyone who might be working their own build (Groove!) before the instructions are rev'd.

We finished rewrapping the main wiring harness and heatwrapping it. My BIL did a great job with it and it looks damn near factory. We tied this up with stainless bailing wire, wasn't sure zipties would hold up to the heat.

The stupid fuel line / purge hose / heat shield debacle is finally over. That portion of the install has been very problematic. Either the spacer provided was too long, or the bolt provided was too short. Support (who has been amazingly awesome and very responsive since our first issue) suggested we shorten the spacer or get a longer bolt. I ended up doing both. The shield is difficult to place in because of the add-on fuel line. It has to bend along the chassis and thus wants to push the shield away from the chassis. If you get a looong bolt (no reason not to), you can thread it in loosely and then torque the shield and lines into place. I was a little worried that over time the shield may begin cutting the lines, so I wrapped them in a couple of of layers of heatwrap to protect #MOARHEATWRAP (can you ever have too much?). One note for GrooveStyle, the shield contacted the manifold in my case and could not be installed the way it is pictured in the manual. Support suggested I move the shield to the next hole back. Doing this you end up using that "middle" hole with the spacer. I like this better anyway, keeps the lines in place.

With that done, we were finally able to get the passenger side manifold in place and torqued down (I feel like I have installed and uninstalled the damn thing 3287486 times).

After that, we went ahead and installed the passenger side turbo. The back two mounting nuts are super easy, but the front two are a bitch. The higher one you can gently get your fingers in there and thread it on, then torque with the closed end of a combo wrench. The lower, front nut is a two person job. One person has to get a finger on the stud from the bottom of the car, the other person needs to place the nut on the stud with some kind of reaching tool (tweezers or.. we actually used a magnetic pick-up tool). The person under the car can hold it in place, and the person on top can get a finger on it and between the two you can get it threaded on. Torquing is similar - the person under the car has to blindly feed the closed end of a combo wrench up to the nut and the person over the car can guide it onto the nut. I highly recommend a ratcheting combo wrench for this.

We went ahead and installed the union for the pass side water feed as well.

Tomorrow we'll get the drivers side turbo mounted. I test fitted it this morning so it shouldn't be terribly difficult getting it mounted. Getting the waste gate and waterline in place could be a different story but support thinks we wont have issues. He suggests, in addition to what the manual has you connect to the turbo during prep, adding the inlet coupler, the outlet coupler, and the outlet pipe before mounting. We didn't have all that on during test fit this morning so there may still be some adventures waiting for us.

Overall, the fit and finish of the kit is excellent. Passenger side manifold/turbo looks factory the way it fits in there, though it is tight. Hoping the drivers side looks just as good. I've been very impressed with the quality of all the parts and have only had to make small adjustments here and there. The instructions are another story, but I'm also pretty sure I am among the first group to DIY this kit so they should get better over time. The support guy Gamma has hooked me up with (who is one of their builders) has been exceptional and I don't think we could have gotten this far without him (again, this will become less necessary as the instructions improve). I call or text him about 6 or 7 times a day.

I am seeing a light at the end of the tunnel and as of tonight I am feeling optimistic about meeting the timeline. There have been so many instances during this build where I have felt overwhelmed just standing there dumbfounded why I just took apart a car I bought only a few days ago, but just keep plugging away and as you overcome hurdles one by one, the finish line starts creeping into view.

Oh one more note for Groove.. I thought I was missing the drivers side compressor outlet pipe, but it just turned out the part number in the manual doesn't match the label on the packaging.

Thanks for reading! Sorry no pics yet.. We are taking them, just don't have a ton of time to size, post, caption, etc...

12-22-2015, 02:13 PM	#1 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465057	Rotella Synthetic. Get it at Autozone. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

12-22-2015, 02:14 PM	#4 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465057	If you have the room after the filter sandwich plate, IC piping and lines I recommend using the Pathfinder oil filter from the bigger V6. Same diameter but it's longer so you get a little more filter area. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

12-22-2015, 02:41 PM	#5 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465057	It's the blue bottle __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

12-22-2015, 02:45 PM	#6 (permalink)
EliteXpress Base Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Katy Posts: 238 Drives: '16 370z 6MT Rep Power: 11	Rotella T6 Full Synthetic for me TOO! Good stuff... jwick likes this.

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12-24-2015, 08:19 AM	#14 (permalink)
GrooveStyle Base Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Waterloo, Iowa Posts: 230 Drives: '12 370z GM 6MT Rep Power: 14	Wow, awesome notes, thanks for that! I'm to the point where the manifold is removed now, and had to head out for the holidays, but will continue next week.