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Stillen Air to Air setup

Originally Posted by TopgunZ Yes but even if that front mount was the size of the whole bumper itself it wouldn't be able to handle the heat generated at 10+

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Old 06-24-2015, 04:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TopgunZ View Post
Yes but even if that front mount was the size of the whole bumper itself it wouldn't be able to handle the heat generated at 10+ psi. It ALL still has to go through the 3 whole inches of aftercooler core in the mani. That is the ONLY part that cools the charge air.

How do we know how much more efficiently that frozen boost front mount is cooling the charge? Has anyone taken an aftermarket intake temp sensor and stuck it in the manifold after the cooler and measured the stillen one, then put the frozen boost one on it and measured that one? I am sure it does drop it down some. However, at 9psi and stillen ic at 200* ait's and frozen boost at 180* is still not efficient enough to crank the boost up to 12psi. You will be seeing iat's that will be disastrous. That's what this whole thread is solving.
the Frozen Boost exchanger doesn't cool the intake air, it cools the water that circulates through the intake manifold. So, where would you put that sensor? I can tell you that the difference when driving before and after installing the Frozen Boost unit is very noticeable. Heat soak is a lot harder to reach than with the Stillen exchanger.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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the Frozen Boost exchanger doesn't cool the intake air, it cools the water that circulates through the intake manifold. So, where would you put that sensor? I can tell you that the difference when driving before and after installing the Frozen Boost unit is very noticeable. Heat soak is a lot harder to reach than with the Stillen exchanger.
Does your motor run on water? Or air and fuel?

Intake temps bro. Intake manifold or plenum, whatever.
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TopgunZ View Post
Does your motor run on water? Or air and fuel?

Intake temps bro. Intake manifold or plenum, whatever.
Do you think replacing that intake core you pulled out with a copper one would help reduce IAT? Water traditionally is more efficient than air...heat soak is another story, but I would think the peltier effect of the stillen water cooling could be greatly improved with some copper core units on either end for more efficient heat transfer. Then again, flow v. rate of cooling is a factor as well. Improving the flow and allowing sufficient time for water to be cooled could in fact make this system very efficient. Has anyone yet tried increasing the tubing diameter, flow rate (bigger pump?), and core size all together?
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Do you think replacing that intake core you pulled out with a copper one would help reduce IAT? Water traditionally is more efficient than air...heat soak is another story, but I would think the peltier effect of the stillen water cooling could be greatly improved with some copper core units on either end for more efficient heat transfer. Then again, flow v. rate of cooling is a factor as well. Improving the flow and allowing sufficient time for water to be cooled could in fact make this system very efficient. Has anyone yet tried increasing the tubing diameter, flow rate (bigger pump?), and core size all together?
I have never seen or heard of a copper cooler. They may exist and yes copper has better heat transfer rate. Its probably a cost thing. It would be insanely expensive to manufacture vs aluminum. Water is more efficient but once it heat soaks its done. On a track it will never cool back down in time to make it useful. If you hit it full throttle on the street then drove around for a couple of minutes at cruising speed it would then become closer to ambient but never fully ambient as that manifold can cook eggs on it and it becomes an oven for the aftercooler inside of it. You are then recirculating hot water all the time.

People have tried bigger hoses, bigger storage tanks, bigger pumps and bigger front mounts. Another thing is to get that storage tank out of the hot engine bay. If you really want a low pressure drop water to air you would need to pipe it so the aftercooler is mounted in the front bumper and not in the oven manifold. Like a barrel style.
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I have never seen or heard of a copper cooler. They may exist and yes copper has better heat transfer rate. Its probably a cost thing. It would be insanely expensive to manufacture vs aluminum. Water is more efficient but once it heat soaks its done. On a track it will never cool back down in time to make it useful. If you hit it full throttle on the street then drove around for a couple of minutes at cruising speed it would then become closer to ambient but never fully ambient as that manifold can cook eggs on it and it becomes an oven for the aftercooler inside of it. You are then recirculating hot water all the time.

People have tried bigger hoses, bigger storage tanks, bigger pumps and bigger front mounts. Another thing is to get that storage tank out of the hot engine bay. If you really want a low pressure drop water to air you would need to pipe it so the aftercooler is mounted in the front bumper and not in the oven manifold. Like a barrel style.
hmm. yeah cost of copper isn't cheap at all. Tank outside of the engine bay would work well. I'm sure there's a lot that can be done with water, including going to a liquid which is insulated better (like a glycol-DI water mix). Obviosuly using plain tap water will cause the liquid to gas and leave sediment behind quite quickly, haha. Now that I think about it more, I've worked on systems where liquid can be extremely efficient, but the cost of setup makes it ridiculous sometimes...
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Old 06-25-2015, 12:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have never seen or heard of a copper cooler. They may exist and yes copper has better heat transfer rate. Its probably a cost thing. It would be insanely expensive to manufacture vs aluminum. Water is more efficient but once it heat soaks its done. On a track it will never cool back down in time to make it useful. If you hit it full throttle on the street then drove around for a couple of minutes at cruising speed it would then become closer to ambient but never fully ambient as that manifold can cook eggs on it and it becomes an oven for the aftercooler inside of it. You are then recirculating hot water all the time.

People have tried bigger hoses, bigger storage tanks, bigger pumps and bigger front mounts. Another thing is to get that storage tank out of the hot engine bay. If you really want a low pressure drop water to air you would need to pipe it so the aftercooler is mounted in the front bumper and not in the oven manifold. Like a barrel style.
I contacted Plazmaman (located in Australia) regarding making a custom barrel style secondary w2a I/C that would mount directly after the SC'r.(There is room enough to do this - but you are limited in size and therefore cooling capacity)
The idea here was to augment the Stillen aftercooler by initially cooling the charge before the TB's .

The barrel style I/C's don't drop much pressure, so it might have worked.

The Plazmaman custom w2a I/C would have been fairly expensive but they promised a quick turnaround.
I also considered an even larger Heat Exchanger than the Frozen Boost, and a larger circulating pump, to provide more cooling potential to the Stillen I/C itself.
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