GTR Start Button DIY II - Manual Trans

Nixlimited

First of all, big thanks to Triple for his original thread on how to do this, located here: Original GTR DIY (Auto Trans)

The only reason I am going to the trouble of doing an additional thread is to add a few more pictures and to show a few minor differences for the manual transmission version.

.5. Here's a handy use for an iPad and the original thread:


1. Edit: This step is not necessary. I pulled this out as I was following the auto trans instructions, but as kenchan made me suddenly realize (duh), you don't need to do this. So, skip this steps 1-3 unless you like taking things apart. Step one is to pry out the silver trim around the shift knob. I used a plastic pry tool made for the job, but a screw driver with tape would work too. Just be careful not to scratch. I found the best place to pry from was just left or right of center on the part closest to the rear of the car. There are two tabs up front so you need to pry the back up and then slide out.


2. This is what it looks like out. You can see all the slots for where the trim piece fits in.


3. This shows you where the tabs are so you don't try to pry and break one. Also note there is some tape at certain spots (probably to avoid creaks and vibrations. I originally pried from one of these tape spots and it jacked up the tape. Try to avoid.


4. Next pry up the leather trim piece that surrounds the shift knob and includes the two buttons (hazard and S-mode (if applicable)). Again, best to pry from the back using an appropriate tool. This piece, like the other, has tabs at the front so pry from the back and then slide out. Alternatively, I have been told that you can just dig your hand in near the rear of the ring, grab it, and pull it up. This is probably just as easy, though when I was playing with it, I was slightly worried about displacing the leather boot. It's probably no issue.


5. This shows the trim piece loose (but still connected by the cables running to the switches)


6. These are the tabs at the front, thus pry up from back and slide backward to free.


7. Rather than take the switch connector off, I just pulled the trim piece up and nearly over the shift knob to be out of the way. I was able to access everything this way, but it may be easier to unplug to have some further freedom.


8. Here is one difference from the auto thread. To remove the knee pads in the stick, you need to remove two (2) screws. You can see one already loosened. You additionally need to remove the one two up from the loosened screw, which also holds the knee pad bracket in place.


9. This shows the knee pad bracket with both (2) screws removed.


10. This is a close up of the same knee pad bracket screws on the other side (passenger)


11. Next you remove the two screws (one on driver's side and one on passenger side as shown) that hold the center console trim piece on. After this, slowly work the piece loose from the bottom and it will start to slide out. Don't try too pivot too far as there are channels which fit into the AC ducts and if you flex it too far, you may break something. You should be able to work the whole thing loose slowly.


12. Once you work the trim piece loose, you can get to the backside of the ignition switch. There are grey plastic tabs (shown) on each side that you compress, which will then free the switch to slide out through the front of the trim piece.


13. One the switch is free, use a small flat head to compress the tab (shown) in the connector so that you can slide the connector out of the back of the ignition switch.


14. One the switch is out, connect the new switch, noting the notch in the new switch connector receptacle goes on the same side as the release tab. Slide the switch back in and reverse all the steps to put back together. I noticed that the factory tightens all screws too TAF spec, so I would use roughly the same without stripping them.


Again, big thanks to Triple for the original thread.

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