Hmmmmmmmm.............

That's a good point. I know it has fully adjustable lock out pins for each gear so what I'm concerned about shouldn't be an issue anyway. I was reading the description on SOHO's website and it says "each shift has fully adjustable gear lock out pins which prevent you from accidently selecting the wrong gear during usage, this can be set up for race applications, preventing 5th gear from being selected"

Are they saying that you could lock out 5th and 6th so only the first four gears would be usable?

This is good for track that don't have long straight aways like Auto Club and Big Willow come to mind!

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And in my situation since my car isn't a freeway driver I don't need fifth or sixth for everyday street driving.

Ah gotcha. I didn't notice the individual lockout ability because... no instructions lol:rofl2:

Anyway, here's where I'm at with assembly of the shifter itself:

1) Upon opening the box, you'll notice the shifter is separated from the base plate as well as two mini ziplock bags with 2 sets of screws (1 pair w/ nuts, the other set of 4 m6 screws... pay attention to length because two are shorter than the others)

https://i.imgur.com/mmH4MWOl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jvoauwvl.jpg


** To those thinking of changing the knob itself, the shifter is threaded on both the outside as well as the inside. Unfortunately, the thread does not match that of the 370Z (the pictures shows the pitch against a Narita Dogfight Battlecraft. I tried to MacGuyver my Nismo Ti GT on using a slightly longer M6x1.0 (the inside thread) however no store in my area had one long enough. If, however, you're thinking of doing the same thing, the Nismo would need an M6x1.0 x 35-45mm long, fully threaded body. I just ended up using the knob that came with it for the time being.

https://i.imgur.com/UrXZILal.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/unn7Umkl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/S92U7Hpl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/b0huI4ql.jpg

...anyway, back to assembly


2) The next step is connecting the shift assembly to the base plate. Obviously, with the connecting link (or whatever the technical term is actually called) attached, it would be a pain to force it through the rubber grommet/weather seal. So, to alleviate this problem, the link is connected to the shaft via a Mx nut on the side. Remove the nut and pull the link out, then it's simple pushing the shaft through the nut. Afterwards, you'll have to push the shifter knob through a bit more than it'll be oriented once complete to be able to access the thread to reattach the Mx nut and link.

https://i.imgur.com/yfLxrQbl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wnRxwcol.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/syI1c1Zl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ns7xnJol.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2iQMIGgl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/0aXZ1RKl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/h2Ogukfl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GdKyQGKl.jpg


3) After the shaft is through the grommet, and reattached to the link. The next step is actually connecting the assembly to the plate via the 4 M6 screws I mentioned earlier (2 pairs/different sizes)... FYI the shorter screws go on the recessed part of the plate.

**Make sure to NOT tighten the 4 nuts/bolts on the plate prior to this step. You will need to shift the plate that they (and subsequently the rubber grommet) are connected to, to tighten the screws that attach the assembly to the plate.

https://i.imgur.com/jS4SutMl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Rz6zrYTl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tIoaFzEl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bTOETKTl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lByRNmYl.jpg


...and that's as far as I am now. I'll update this post once I receive the instructions from SOHO.

It appears from your pics that it's a pretty well made product. Mine's suppose to be delivered on Monday so I'll be using your write up to do that part of the assembly. Hopefully SOHO gets the set up instructions from Coolerworx soon. Thanks for the write up.

damn that is a sexy looking shifter. I told myself I don't need a short throw for my z, but if that performs as well as it looks I think I need it. Does everything install from the top?

You're going to be under the car for a moment to disconnect the shifter from the linkage, just like any other short throw shifter. Its a boot to temporarily pull back and a single bolt to remove, and then you put those two items back. There's plenty of room under the car to get to those items, at least compared to doing other things on these cars.

The hardest part is getting that damn boot back on. :shakes head:

Subscribed for updates and a hot looking shifter.

Also, just FYI, not all short shifters require under the car work, on my B6 A4 I was able to do it from just in the cabin. But d@mn that shifter looks good.

I've finished my install and was able to get the instructions directly from Coolerworx (also got assistance from Nik @ Soho so shoutout to him helping out on his day off). I'm pretty much done aside from buttoning everything up so you probably won't need the instructions lol

No, unfortunately not. A decent bit of work is required under the car so if you have access to a lift I'd definitely recommend using it. I just had my jack and jack stands and was able to accomplish everything.

Unfortunately, this one required a bit more work than my TWM (although most of it was figuring out what I needed to do). Thankfully, I've done all the hard work for you all :rofl2:

Haha... no

I'll admit that there were certain aspects of the install and the item itself that I was less than impressed with, especially for the price paid (to say the least):

1) There were no instructions included. Although I was able to figure out 90% of the install, the other 10% I wouldn't have been able to without both Nik @ Soho and Donatas @ Coolerworx helping out. But, to caveat that: the customer service from both was OUTSTANDING

2) I believe this part to be the same used for the 350Z, although I could be wrong. The reason I say this because the plate (that the assembly connects to/Step 3 from my previous post) BARELY fits the 370Z, but does not as one would expect... again, for the price paid. The plate is barely large enough to cover the transmission tunnel opening and the holes do not lineup with those from the 370. Because of this, you will need to drill holes into the tunnel to mount the shifter to the vehicle. Also, it does not include the hardware needed once the holes are drilled (8mm bolts/washers/nuts btw).

* I've spoken with Donatas @ Coolerworx and expressed my displeasure with certain aspects of the product. He informed me that he's continuing to update the product and I'll be sending him the measurements/dimensions of the bolts so that he can make a proper plate that will not require drilling. So, once again, great customer service and a great guy to deal with.




So, to continue from my previous post, I was able to install the shifter yesterday so onto the continuation of the install...

4) The next step will be removing the stock shifter (or in my case my TWM short shifter). Instructions can be found here: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ure-heavy.html
*all credit goes to Mozen for the DIY

...everything will be removed, and nothing will be reused other than the bolt connecting the shifter to the linkage.

https://i.imgur.com/55h0YPpl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aNgfTiZl.jpg


5) You will need to remove part of the exhaust for this part.... From under the car, you will need to remove the shift brace (again, don't know the technical term) by removing two 12mm bolts on the side and two 12mm bolts on top. The two on the side aren't too difficult but the two on top... no words can describe how much a PITA these were to remove. All I can say is I hope you have small hands and a lot of patience.
...anyway, once the bolts are removed (or loosened on top since there's not enough physical space to remove them). The brace can be rotated around the transmission and removed.

https://i.imgur.com/yPKHGgMl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rBOYiXwl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SgMWQXbl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oAhdRxFl.jpg


6) ...with the brace removed, you can begin installing the Coolerworx assembly. You'll have to center it as much as possible and mark the tunnel (I connected the linkage for this part, then disconnected it again to drill the holes). Because the bolts I had laying around were 10mm, I ended up having to drill the plate to enlarge the holes. Be sure to do rust protection afterwards!!

https://i.imgur.com/kIf0kyQl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1VsglAgl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4HzNKSPl.jpg


7) Drill your holes, insert bolts/washers/nuts (you'll probably need someone on the other side to hold the bolt) and voilà

https://i.imgur.com/6qj9D83l.jpg

* You can choose to reuse the shift boot, I chose not to since I like the somewhat "industrial" look the assembly gives although I could stand to organize my wires a bit better.

8) Last but not least, the lockout and reverse. Using the other ziplock bag with the two m1/2 nuts/bolts. Pull them out and [barely] thread the nuts onto the bolts, then thread the bolts into the threaded holes on the Coolerworx assembly next to where the reverse lockout pin is. Shift to 1st then thread the nuts (on the left side) in so that the nut sits against the lockout bolt, shift to 2nd and make sure that there's no interference. Once that step is done tighten the nut against the bolt so that the it is secure. Repeat for 5th/6th.

* For those wanting to lockout 5th, you will do the same except instead of using 5th/6th, you will use 3rd/4th. There may be a way to lockout reverse as well, however the instructions provided by Coolerworx didn't specify how (similar to what I was saying previously about locking out groups of gears instead of individual ones).

https://i.imgur.com/j7mPhZcl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/anVjNcIl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EXglTbel.jpg

So the shifter is bolted to the body and not on the tranny shifter bracket. Think it would best to change the tranny mount to something that won't allow the tranny to move around. This would take the stress off of the shifting rod coming out of the tranny.

I don't know. Think the jury might be out a while.

Thanks again for the detailed installation instructions. What is your driving impression? Since you were using the TWM, how does it compare?

A couple more things. Did Coolerworx send you over written instructions? Also, since Coolerworx is going to be making the proper plate that will be able to screw into the stock holes will they be making this available to those of us that have already purchased the shifter?

Indeed. I'd definitely recommend anyone who's interested in this to purchase and upgraded tranny mount. I upgraded mine when I changed the clutch/CSC/CMC/pedal so I'm ahead of the curve. On the other hand, due to the way the assembly is put together, there is enough give where I don't think most people would be put off by it. I'd still recommend it.

Haven't driven it yet since I've been relocating my O2 sensor since before I had it coming through the dust boot. However, just going through the gears when I was setting up the lockout it... how should I phrase this... It ***** all over the TWM. I mean, this thing is the Kobe beef of shifters.

The instructions I received were partially written and partially pictures. I had to take those, plus the instructions/pictures Nik sent me and combine them along with what I had done to make it complete. Neither of theirs had assembly instructions, though.

From what I can tell, he does plan on making a new plate but when and whether or not he plans to replace/reimburse the "V1" customers I do not know. I sent him pictures, measurements and suggestions on what I thought could be improved (making the plate a semi-H form) and he seemed very receptive to what I was saying so the ball is in his court.