Flashing red light on instrument panel!

RyanWest

Anyone change the color of this yet?

DIGItonium

Just a PLCC2 SMD LED. I kept mine red. In the 350Z I made it white.

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RyanWest

Know were I can purchase different colors or modify it?

SouthArk370Z

heehee DIGItonium makes it sound easy. There is a DIY on this site about changing dash LEDs. IIRC, it requires dismantling the cluster assembly and the ability to de/solder SMDs. Not a job for the average weekend mechanic. YMMV

"PLCC2 SMD LED color" (replace "color" with red/purple/whatever) will find what you need on most search engines.

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DIGItonium

That's true. Make sure you are able to remove and disassemble the gauge cluster. Then you'll need to pull off the needle and gauge face in order to get to the LEDs. Lastly, you'll need to be able to solder surface mount components with the necessary tools. The LEDs are around 3.0x2.8mm, so it's very tiny.

Here's a link to some examples:
PLCC SMD-3.5X2.8mm LED from Kingbright USA

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JARblue

Digi, do you have any tips on how to work with LEDs this small? Other than lots of practice? I tried doing the start button LEDs a couple years ago and mostly just made a mess of things. I did buy some new tips and tool set that were the smallest I could find in the local hobby store along with some thinner solder, but I was still having troubles. If you have any particular tools that you find useful, I would be very interested and appreciative of any additional info or pic(s)

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DIGItonium

That can happen if you don't have the right tools. Thinner solder is a good start. The smallest tip is very sharp. The solder reworking station I have from Metcal is pretty pricey. The cheapest is around the $300 range. The one I have is discontinued, but it was my first from over 10 years ago. It heats the solder around 600F. It's really nice, and I can rework very small surface mount parts including flash memory (fine pitch).

Below is a list of some of the tips available for my particular tool:
SSC Series Conical new

Here's a generic example of a sharp tip:
http://www.amazon.com/Metcal-SFV-CNB.../dp/B007QT1K84

For surface mount LEDs, capacitors, resistors, etc., it's possible to remove and replace components without using a heat gun:

1. Clean and tin the tip with solder.
2. Heat the contact ends of the component and PCB pads with additional solder (hold it around a 45 degree angle, and rest your hand to help leverage the tip). You basically want to add blobs and work both ends quickly so you can slide off the component. Goal is to get this done in a few seconds so you don't overheat and rip the pads.
3. Use solder wick to remove excess solder on the surface and PCB pads, and go back with Isopropyl Alcohol using Kimwipe or cotton swab.
4. Clean and tin the tip, heat up one PCB pad, and dab some solder on the pad. It doesn't take much.
5. Use tweezers to align and hold the part on the pad, and heat the component contact and PCB pad. This should allow solder to flow and make contact with both surface. That is enough to mechanically hold the component so you can solder the remaining contacts. If necessary, go back and resolder the first contact. The goal is to get this done in a few seconds so you don't end up damaging the component and PCB pads.
6. For cleaner work, use a flux pen to dab the contacts with some flux. Then heat the tip of the contact and PCB pad. It will sizzle a bit, and you'll be left with clean solder work and reduce the likelihood of cold solder joints.

For practice, get a dead motherboard or PCB with surface mount parts. Practice removing and replacing parts on it.

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JARblue

Actually, circuit boards in computers and TVs are where I got my start. I figured you must have a soldering station or something more serious than what I use. Getting the temps right is probably my biggest obstacle at the moment.

Thanks for the response

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DIGItonium

@JARblue the particular one I use is fixed temp. I think there's a thermocouple built into the tip, which is how the power supply can regulate the temperature of the tip. It doesn't really heat up until you put a load on the tip, so it doesn't end up overheating and deteriorating the tip.

It's pretty awesome, and I highly recommend it. With hobby use, these tips will last years. I'm still on my 2nd tip, and I still have brand new spares from 10 years ago. Cost is around $20, so it's very nice.

This is the one I have, but it has been replaced by newer (smaller) models:
http://www.surplus-electronics.co.uk....800.-1.85.jpg

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