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-   -   The 370Z Weight Reduction Thread (http://www.the370z.com/exterior-interior/1010-370z-weight-reduction-thread.html)

ChipsWithDips 06-19-2013 02:27 PM

This battery weighs 3lbs, I've been running it for the past few months, works great.

Has not failed to start once. It cranks a little slower in near freezing weather, but that doesn't happen often where I am.

Mounting it was a bit of a pain but I ended up making my own replacement battery tray. Dropped 30lbs total.

wstar 06-19-2013 03:25 PM

Wow, that thing is tiny. No spark issues? TBH, I don't really know the low-level electrical details of how engine ignition systems work, but I was under the impression that basically an engine can't generally run very well on its alternator alone; that the required juice to give a full-power spark comes from the battery (in rapid intermittent bursts as the plug fires), and the relatively-constant output of the alternator is topping off the battery between those bursts. Which is why really tiny batteries always worry me a little, re: potential to lose some of your full spark amperage. I could be way off-base, though!

ChipsWithDips 06-19-2013 04:58 PM

The battery uses LiFePo4(Lithium Iron Phosphate) chemistry, which has a tremendous power to weight ratio. Its the same battery technology as used in the worlds fastest electric drag motorcycle killacycle. I haven't cracked open the case(its thermo sealed) to check if they are actually A123 cells(generally considered the best LiFePo4 cells), but it does the job quite well.

It is not relying on alternator alone with a small battery. The battery will be slightly discharged after cranking, but will get topped off quickly by the alternator. Voltage gauge reads 14.4 while engine is running.

At this size it doesn't have nearly the capacity (amp hours) of a full size lead acid, but short bursts is what it excels at. The only risk with lower capacity is that you could drain it fairly quickly if you aren't careful. Just don't run electrical without the engine on.

synolimit 06-19-2013 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChipsWithDips (Post 2370317)
This battery weighs 3lbs, I've been running it for the past few months, works great.

Has not failed to start once. It cranks a little slower in near freezing weather, but that doesn't happen often where I am.

Mounting it was a bit of a pain but I ended up making my own replacement battery tray. Dropped 30lbs total.

A foot by a foot by a foot?? That's huge! Light, but huge.

ChipsWithDips 06-19-2013 07:03 PM

Those dimensions are not accurate, its closer to 4-5" cube.

synolimit 06-19-2013 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChipsWithDips (Post 2370785)
Those dimensions are not accurate, its closer to 4-5" cube.

Ahh much better.

wstar 06-19-2013 09:59 PM

Hell at that size and weight, I might consider moving the battery back up to the battery box instead of the trunk. The cabling to the trunk probably outweighs the battery itself :)

theDreamer 06-20-2013 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 2370945)
Hell at that size and weight, I might consider moving the battery back up to the battery box instead of the trunk. The cabling to the trunk probably outweighs the battery itself :)

:iagree:
I just started talking to Wstar about moving mine but at how light the batteries are getting & efficient, may as well keep it up front.

synolimit 06-21-2013 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 2370945)
Hell at that size and weight, I might consider moving the battery back up to the battery box instead of the trunk. The cabling to the trunk probably outweighs the battery itself :)

First thing I saw when you guys moved the batteries was the cable. Thought to myself, kinda defeats the purpose. Then I saw some installed in the middle of the trunk which again I thought, driver weighs 100+ lbs, 30 lbs oem battery was on passenger side, now 15 lbs battery is in the middle of the trunk, again defeats the purpose. If anything the battery should be under the passenger seat.

wstar 06-21-2013 08:30 AM

You're a very negative nancy :P

The cables aren't much compared to the battery weight shift, and more importantly the cable weight is distributed out fairly evenly. Shifting weight from front to rear is always good (unless you actually manage to cross the 50/50 mark). Shifting weight towards the center of the car from where it originally was further out in any direction is always good (driver-vs-passenger can always be corrected later with corner balancing).

Not everything on these jobs may be perfectly ideal, but they still do a lot of good. The placement didn't "defeat the purpose".

synolimit 06-24-2013 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 2372918)
You're a very negative nancy :P

The cables aren't much compared to the battery weight shift, and more importantly the cable weight is distributed out fairly evenly. Shifting weight from front to rear is always good (unless you actually manage to cross the 50/50 mark). Shifting weight towards the center of the car from where it originally was further out in any direction is always good (driver-vs-passenger can always be corrected later with corner balancing).

Not everything on these jobs may be perfectly ideal, but they still do a lot of good. The placement didn't "defeat the purpose".

Lol no just stating what I see. Hell I have no idea where all the weight should be. I want to get a corner balance done. So far I've removed the stock exhaust, everything in the trunk, windshield washer bottle full of fluid, some engine hoses and brackets and covers etc so I might be killing my cars weight distribution. Adding a battery to it, TS over cats etc, its all going to effect the car some how. Guess ill find out when I'm done.

wstar 06-24-2013 09:56 PM

The rear is much easier to remove excess weight from than the front for sure, which is unfortunately backwards. It all changes when you stop caring about it being a street car. Most of the easy weight removal in the front is stuff you'd never do on a daily-driver (forward interior plastics, airbags, air conditioner, radio, etc).

synolimit 06-30-2013 07:28 PM

After my CBE I went and got weighed again. With everything I've taken out and a full tank of gas I'm at 3280. So 81 lbs to date. Good news for me when I go to the strip with 1/4 of gas and passenger seat removed ill be at 3152 :happydance:

I still have a CAI to build, lighter battery, test pipes, wheels and tires, and rotors. I don't think ill break 3000 it will be close.

-34.3 lbs in wheels and tires
-19 lbs battery
-28.4 lbs rotors
Test pipes???
CAI???

synolimit 07-08-2013 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1166413)
Minor update on lug nuts. Top post lists the stock ones as "3 lbs". On my kitchen scale the sport package ones (are they all the same?) come in at 76.5g per lug nut, which is 1.530 kg for the whole car, or 3.366 lbs.

Muteki's open-ended tuner nuts come in at 25g (1.1 lbs total), and the closed-end ones at 60g (2.64 lbs) (per mfg specs).

It's not much, but every little bit helps :)

Nice. Wanted to know this because I sold my OEM and didn't weigh. I got Gorilla closed end lugs and they're 32.19g each or 1.42lbs total.

Also I weighed my OEM rear 2013 wheel and tire and it was 57.5lbs so heavier than previous years. Forgot to weigh the front :(

ZoroItaliano 07-30-2013 09:16 AM

Is it safe to say that the real gains of an exhaust upgrade lies in weight savings? If this is the case, I would think that just replacing the stock mufflers would be an upgrade it itself. I guess what I'm asking is out of all sections of the exhaust, which section is worth changing to consider it an "upgrade"....


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