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Here we go again...
Had short block replaced at 12k, Oil consumption was main cause, And issues with timing chain..... Now at 25k, less than 3k since my previous oil change (all handled by dealer), I check oil while cleaning under the hood, yup, you guessed it, 3 quarts low. I should have known better, and been checking, but I wasn't. I figgered its the dealers problem to handle... When does the oil light come on in this car, when you're down to a teaspoon?
Going in in 2 weeks for Oil change and "consumption monitoring".:shakes head: |
Damn sorry to hear. I had my short block replaced at 37,xxx. And I'm trying to get them replace again because I've had issues with oil leaks on various parts related to short block and their workmanship since then.
Yeah the oil light is a joke, dipstick was bone dry and no alert. Only warning was SES light flash once got to high on rpm. |
The oil light in this car comes on to let you know the engine is destroyed and needs to be replaced.
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It is an oil pressure light, not an oil level light. It will only come on when there is no oil pressure.
Oil pressure lights are red. Oil level lights are yellow. Most cars do not have oil level lights. BTW sorry to hear about your engine. |
well Saturday she went in for her Oil change and start the consumption monitoring.. I hope this turns out well, I have a cabin rented near the Dragon in August, I don't want to have the Z in getting ANOTHER short block while I zoom around Tennessee in my loaner Nissan Leaf....lol At least I wouldn't have to worry about speeding tickets.
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UPDATE:mad: Put on 1059 miles since oil change. Back to dealer today for check........they wouldn' give me an exact amount, but told me it was around a quart low. They have to contact Nissan on Monday to see what is considered "acceptable" or in spec. Doesn't sound like good news. I figger if she needs another short block, they cant have her until after my Dragon trip in August....... Put 'dem miles on the old one!!
Not happy. |
Can't understand why these cars don't have an OP gauge. You would see something there as it got lower. I had mine less than a month when I ordered and installed a gauge. Granted I did it for the oil cooler too, but I won't own a car without an OPG. No smart comments about electric. :)
Sorry for the OP, get a gauge installed buddy. It won't tell you about level, but when you get a feel for it it will tell you something isn't right. I had an old Celica that would drop a bit when down a quart and I knew it was time to drop one in. GL |
sorry to hear, definitely start checking more often as you said.
sounds weird, do you park in the same place all the time? have you checked to make sure no oil on ground under your car? I've had mine for almost 3 years/50,000 k's (about 31-32,000 miles) and never had any problems with oil levels dropping |
Its garaged, and not a drop under car...It's definitely drinking it. I'm alright with checking the oil every 1,000 or so, and topping off, that's not my concern. My concern is this (understand that I am no mechanic) If the engine is using enough oil to be considered "out of spec" to Nissan, and I keep it in the car, what are the long term issues, if any, that I may encounter. I mean there is a reason that its considered an "unacceptable" amount of use..
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Just got word from Nissan....Another short block coming my way.
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Makes me nervous. I've been meaning to check my oil last few gas tankfulls. Thanks for the reminder and glad Nissan is taking care of the issue. Good luck!
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Not too experienced with new cars, or newer/unused engines in general. My guess is the engineering of the engine. Whether it's piston rings or valve seals or something. Somethigns not right when the engine is cold or when the engine is at operating tempature as the engines metal expands. I understand I was breaking in my engine in the beginning but wondering if it is gonna be a continuos issue. I only had 1 quart missing at 3,000 miles. As far as I know the engines are already broken in before the car reaches a dealership according to my local dealership. So it's a preference these days to follow a break in procedure. I followed it anyhow.
I never had this issue at all, with a chevy, honda or dodge. However I never had them brand new |
yeah the oil pressure light will come on 5 minutes after you are completely out of oil.
I'm not joking here either when my oil cooler failed the light didn't come on until i had gotten it pulled over after seeing a large cloud of smoke pouring out the back of my car. |
I think I've read all the posts here about oil usage/replace/rebuild by Nissan, but has anyone identified the reason for oil loss? Is it bad oil rings, leaks on valve seals, main seals going, etc?
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They want me to bring t back in to check valve timing, and a few other things.. Well, I know its a load of BS, but the Dealership said Nissan techs stressed the importance of following the guidelines for break-in "strictly".. I assured them that after the first swap, I was sure to follow PAST the recommended timeframe to be sure this would not happen to me again, and here I am.
They didn't come right out and say it was MY fault, but they imply that its you and not the product. I wonder if Nissan would do anything for me for my troubles!!!:bowrofl: Factory installed exhaust upgrade would be aaaiigghht...... |
wow, havent had a huge oil issue yet. it leaks a little, which is 100% more than it should...... but nowhere near 3 quarts. more like a half quart in 10k miles "i run full synth longer" as anyone knows you only really need to change the filter on a well treated well built engine. If you think otherwise, by all means please keep forking over your dollars to the oil fatcats.
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http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbu...onsumption.pdf For a new unabused engine it usually means the engine was improperly assembled or assembled with defective parts. And who wants to live with that. |
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You obviously have never seen engine oil after its been run through an engine for 5K miles. It resembles nothing close to clean :shakes head: |
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so much fail with this dude.... |
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Again. Difference between conventional, half and full synthetic. Its all good, u dont have to believe me, do the ******* research yourself and stop being a consumer toolbag. I dont have to prove to u im right, but if you say so u should prove that im wrong. I gave a set of parameters. In a well maintained, well treated, well designed car with PROPER full synthetic oil there is absolutely no reason to change it every 10 feet. Keep being mentally retarded and forking over your money instead of researching the science behind how these things actually work. But think what u will, popular opinion doesnt mean "correct" but by all means if i were an oil industry i would want u too believe oil is the most fragile substance on the planet and MUST be changed every time you park your car or 6 kittens will explode.
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i mean just seems like thats the case since your take on full synthetic oil lasting forever is just completely asinine. |
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stupid is still giving his opinion like it's fact. WE all know just how much his opinions mean around here. |
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Next time I change my Mobil 1 at 5K miles, I'm going to mail it to you. I want you to look at it and tell me that you would be willing to put it in your engine and run it another 5K miles. Then, I want you to actually do it. |
The man does have an interesting view on kitten control I must admit!
Sub'd OP I want to see Nissan take care of the issue. Checked my oil today. Was planning on changing this weekend. Burned a little bit but hopefully not any amount worth concern. I'll know for sure when I drain it. |
For reference,
http://www.the370z.com/members/2011-...e79973-uoa.png The Nissan Synthetic Ester Oil that came in the car with less than 3K miles with actually 11 months in the pan was already out of spec for viscosity. I would like to see an oil analysis of a 10k mile oil. And if I wanted to really not fork over money to the oil fat cats I would not have gotten a car that runs on PREMIUM GAS. |
I do 6 month intervals or 5K miles whichever comes first, which is always 6 months. I enjoy making obese, greasy kittens.
As far as the "oil light" thing, it's oil pressure, as was already pointed out. You won't lose oil pressure from low oil until it is way too low. However your engine can be full of oil and you can lose oil pressure, so it's important to know what you are looking at. If you thought "Hey the oil light is on" so you checked the dipstick and it read full, would you think it was a malfunction of your "oil light"? That could be a costly mistake. Again, know what you are looking at. |
I just checked my engine oil at 1,000 miles after oil change. No loss of oil at all. Won't really see anything until about another 1k or so but so far I'm stoked
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how do we block comments from certain people?
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So then what is the best recommendation for the first oil change to prevent this oil burning? I have around 1400 miles now and figured I would change it at 3000mi. Is that good? Does not the factory put additives to the break in oil?
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My 40th was consuming about a quart every 1000miles or so. I almost ran it right out just like the OP once. I threw a BP kit on it and its now sitting at about 25000miles and doesnt burn a drop anymore.
Moral of the story, burning oil go boosted. The added air in the combustion chamber helps keep the oil from pushing by the rings :). lol. Goodluck OP with your repair. Your bound to find a good engine sooner or later. |
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JT |
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So dealer is in process of teardown, and calls to tell me my clutch disc and flywheel look pretty bad, and recommend replacement. I'm stunned. 26k??? I've driven manual cars all my life, never replaced a clutch so soon. I took a vehicle to the scrapyard from new with 175k on it, original clutch.
Am I being hosed here? $1800 without labor. |
go look at it, post up a picture. dont rely solely on their word
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