How soon to bleed clutch?

JCarter

I'm picking up my new Z tomorrow and don't know if I should replace the clutch fluid with Motul as soon as I can, or wait a couple thousand miles. I want to do this to avoid CSC failure.

Fountainhead

Hi JCarter,
Is this a new vehicle? If so, no need to do anything, just keep the clutch fluid clean using the "Ranger Protocol", look it up on the internet. That's what I do.
If this car is used, and the clutch fluid is black or dirty, it can lead to Master Cylinder and Slave cylinder damage. Also keep in mind our cute 'lil plastic Slave Cylinder just isn't cut out for drag racing, high RPM launches, and abuse. Those sorts of things lead to Slave Cylinder failure.
I don't believe there is anything other than anecdotal evidence that any sort of fluid will protect you from the clutch failing treatments I've mentioned above.
I'm very paranoid about my Slave Cylinder failing, I don't have time to take a few days off to change it, so I'm very careful with mine. I'm the 3rd owner and at 21,000 miles with no failure yet.
Congratulations on the new Z!

JARblue

Fluid doesn't really have anything to do with CSC failure. The internals are plastic - it can't take much abuse. Just have a plan in your back pocket for when it does fail. I recommend the ZSpeed Heavy Duty CSC or Z1 CSC Elimination Kit rather than another OEM one prone to failure.

If your car is new, you really don't have anything to worry about for a while (unless you plan on lots of abuse like Fountain mentions). I have a 2011 Z with 50K miles - I drive it hard but I'm not that abusive. I haven't had any troubles with it, yet, although I'm ready for it to crap out at any time.

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Fountainhead

Me!

JCarter

So this ranger protocol, I use a syrande and remove the fluid from the reservoir. Then I just refill it? I'm leaving the original fluid still in the lines. Do I have to use the same fluid that is in the lines or can I mix it with motul?

JARblue

You still haven't mentioned whether you bought new or used. If new, don't worry about it until you're ready to flush the whole system. If used, I would just flush it immediately. If you can't flush it immediately, I would consider the ranger protocol an acceptable solution to postpone the flush temporarily (I would still flush it asap).

I don't think it's that big of deal to mix the fluid as long as they are the same spec. However, I wouldn't do it unless I had the exact same fluid (that's just my OCD). Also, I only bother with the ranger protocol as the first step to a flush to minimize the dirty fluid that is bled through the lines.

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N0SL3N

If you swap the fluid to RBF 600 you can get around most of the heat related issues but not the CSC breaking issue. You will have to get under the car though to do it properly.

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| Akuma | Motordyne | Z1 | NST | CNT | Stillen | Avant Garde | RJM | Performix | Tint | LED | GTR | Nissan |

Roddy1

Jeez. I hate reading stuff like this. I guess every manufacturer overlooks something.

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2011 370Z, 6-Speed Manual, Sport Package. - K&N Drop ins | Top Speed Axleback | H&R Spacers SOLD
2009 G8 GT, 6.0L LSX V8, Rotofab Intake, ARH Long tubes, SOLO exhaust, VMS Tune - SOLD

Fountainhead

I started when my car was 11,000 miles, my fluid was light brown. The way our clutches work, fluid gets cycled between the reservoir and the CSC. I swapped the fluid in mine 2x before it became clear. Since then I've done it at least once a month, depending on the color. I figure I've put at least 1 bottle thru there already. I used Dot3/4 Valvoline. I don't track or abuse it so the minimum is enough for me.
If it were BLACK and chunky, yeah I'd probably swap fluid until I got it clear. Then wait a few days and check it again. If it were still clear I'd leave it alone. Some folks would rather just get it all out at once, bleeding would cover that. It's a 2 person job anyway you look at it. These clutches are a bear to get the air out of (if you accidentally get air in - not saying it's likely).