changing fluids

Chuck33079

If I just bought a used sports car, I'd swap all of the belts, rad hoses and fluids out regardless of what the previous owner had or hadn't done. Maybe plugs too. Definitely an oil analysis.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

L33T Z34

56k on an '09.

Let's see, well I'd change engine oil, tranny lube and rear diff lube to synthetic.

N-spect serpentine belt, if u see crax, then change it...

Plugs, change if u'r really paranoid...NeeSan says the iridiums can go 105k? LOL!
I changed my plugs @ 5k miles w/coppers...NGK, fawk that Denso shi+!

DOT 4 for the clutch, no questions...

Anti-Freeze, the Wal*MarX shi+ is fine, but if dumping that, then may as well change out thermostat...upper/lower hoses should be inspected, if no crax, don't worry 'till over 120k, but of course this varies w/location/environment...

oil analysis, eh? just gonna tell u what the previous owner did/didn't do...to late now...u own it! Maybe it will tell u to get rid of it soonest!

Jimbo370

1. Change the tranny fluid and rear diff with what brand and wt. more specific.. It is manmade so it is all synthetic?
2. What is wrong with iridiums and did you see a difference with copper NGK. On my 300zx They had to be nissan brand or they were not long enough making a poor idle.
3. The antifreeze is some blue Nissan stuff. Does the silicone hoses for radiator worth the extra money.
It will be my daily driver for about 5 yrs. my last car I kept for 14 yrs
THANKS

jwick

1. I go with Red Line Syn. Can't remember the weight off hand but Z1 lists it as Tranny and Diff fluid (they are different).
3. Depends on the state of your current hoses. The silicone one's will never degrade. Just remember you need t-bolt clamps, not worm drive.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build