Engine starts then dies
 

This has happened a few times over the course of the last year or so. There are no warning signs that I've noticed. It's happened after leaving the car off for only 20 minutes and also having it off the entire weekend. The gas level always varies. Today I had 3/4 of a tank and it happened after sitting for about an hour and 20ish minutes.

I'll press the brake, hit the start button, release the brake and let the engine start. The engine will start and then immediately die. I can't get a video of it because I never know when it will happen. Sometimes it takes about 5 tries to get it going but I never remember to bust out the camera during those times. When the car finally does start, it stutters like it's about to die again and then just idles really low before stabilizing. What do I need to check since I can't really replicate it on command?

This video was taken after about two times of it not starting:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...psixkxunmi.jpg

This was today, after one time of it shutting off. It started, almost died and then just stabilized:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...pse0132e94.jpg

I'm wondering if maybe my fuel line(s?) near the exhaust are compromised. I didn't use the guard provided by FI since I didn't buy it new so the lines were wrapped in a fire sleeve provided by the shop.

nah if your fuel line were "compromised" it would just blow and insta-torch your car. Sounds electrical, GLWT

Edit: mine did something kinda smilar once, maybe go get your battery and alt. tested

I see you have pretty high mileage, could your cats be gumed up?? Or when was the last time you cleaned your MAF??

Google intermittent start run and see if you get anything close to what you are experiencing...

Maybe and never under my ownership.

Hey. My car has been doing this too. Usually on warm start ups. Let me know what you find out.

There's so many small issues this could be. Start with cleaning filters and MAF's. After that even with no codes spark plugs, maybe coil pack. I can see this happening under warm/ hot conditions. Which could be idle issue that's off a little. Do you have Uprev?

No Uprev. Could a spark plug misfire cause it? My uncle said it sounded like one was misfiring last year. I took it to the dealership and asked them to check it out but was told they didn't find an issue.

Yes it could be. A code is not always thrown. If there's high mileage be a good time to change them all. Issues like this are mostly maintenance and a combination of all.

Before pulling sparks plugs/coils, I'd try the easy stuff. Cleaning the MAFs is a super easy job - remove the two small screws that hold each MAF in and spray 'em down with MAF cleaner, let dry for a few seconds, reinstall.

Edit: First thing I would do is see if any DTCs have been thrown.

I have the same issue.

Battery and alternator are good. Tested both and nothing came up during the free read at O'Reily.

I'll have to do the MAF cleaning this week. I really think it's a fuel issue so she might be going to the dealership next weekend.

I had this exact issue, cleaning the MAF and replacing the air filter made no difference. My car had approx 75,000km and I read that the G37 guys also experienced the same issue along with rpms dipping when coming to a stop. Affected high mileage cars.

Fix is to clean the throttle bodies, specifically the plenum side. I was surprised at how much carbon was built up. After cleaning, the car starts up like a beast and no more rpm dipping.

Thanks for the info! Is that something the extended warranty would cover?

This sounds like air idle control problem . Considering the mileage, carbon builds up in the controller causes the idle to fluctuate, I have not experience in the Z cause I only have 18k on mine, but had this on problem on my suv, The controller located on the throttle body was replaced, I also read you can clean it, like you use to do with the EGR valves, It depends how much carbon has built up. You have to reset the controller position once you remove it, there is a parameter that has to be set with a volt meter.
Good luck

mine has done this for over 2 years. it fires up on the second start though.

After 63k miles, I'd go ahead and clean the MAFs and see if that helps. Even if that's not the problem, they could probably use a good cleaning by now. I've done it and it's VERY easy. If you have a Phillips screwdriver, the only cost is the MAF cleaner. No gaskets to worry with. No recalibration/training required. The hard part is unplugging the connector and that's pretty easy.

Cleaning the TBs is not what I would call an easy job but, going by the DIYs and comments on this site, it's not all that difficult for your average weekend mechanic. Looks to me to be one (small) degree of difficulty above changing brake pads.

i cleaned my MAF's after i cleaned and re-oiled my K&N drop in filters. doing this did nothing to fix the issue. (i thought i might have fouled the MAF's when i re-oiled the filter, so i cleaned the sensors a week after the K&N's were cleaned)

Cleaning the Throttle bodies is not hard and you can do it without having to do the gas pedal/TPS reset. When Cleaning the the TB's be sure not to unplug any of the electrical connectors or move the throttle plates. I've done it on my G35 a few times.

Doing the the TPS reset can be a PITA.

**edit** here's an excellent write-up.

http://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-in...le-bodies.html

I took it to Nissan, I only had 1 month of warranty remaining. They checked for ecu errors and said they could not repeat the problem. Sent me off and said it was my K&N panel filters.

Luckily it was a common issue and the fix was easy. As you stated, cleaning the TB does not require disconnecting the electrical connections.

I love how the dealers don't even try anymore it ends up going like this

tech- hey I cant figure out whats wrong

serv adviser- well we don't make commision on this thing so blame it on some aftermarket part and send it off

tech- if you say so

It's the throttle bodies, I had the same issue at 30k. Cleaned them and everything was good. Now at 60k, I am having the same issues again. Need to just clean them.

Good to hear omgZ

Did you resolve this issue OP?

Not resolved yet. The only person that I trust touching my car now has been busy with his Z. Hopefully soon.

This happened for the 5th or 6th time today... Was thinking it was my spark plugs or fuel as well..

I don't trust myself to clean out my TB's. Do dealers clean that type of stuff under warranty? Or is that maintenance stuff thats not covered? Whats a normal shop charge to clean those puppies

Question: Is this a 7AT only problem?

Who might that be? :rolleyes:

TBs are definitely on the agenda this summer. Maybe in a couple of weeks - I'm out of town next week again.

It's just removing your intakes and a few bolts - piece of cake. I asked NTB a while back about this and the guy said I should just do it myself. Their charge was $60 for one TB. I expect it would be more for two like the Z has.

Estimate from my normal "shop" was about $100 before shop supplies. The only reason I didn't pull the trigger is because he said they would be using something that sounded more like a seafoam type product.

Well, it ain't the husband! :icon17:

63k miles haven't seen another high miled Z. I had your issue aswell and well that was my fault for not changing the plugs. But here's an example why that is happening for not changing spark plugs for 70k miles. Just a simple tune up and your good to go, problem solved :tup: Right now I'm at 76k and my baby is running Strong :D

[IMG]http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...pscfbc3e86.jpg[/IMG]

Hmm. A lot of folks reporting have AT's, but clearly some folks with MT's have the issue too... might have been barking up the wrong tree there.

I think this is a trouble shooting procedural matter -- unfortunately, one of process of elimination.

Start with looking for vac leaks, cleaning sensors, checking plugs, then TB's, etc.

Good luck!

For the record, I've checked codes and had the MAF sensors cleaned. Up next will be cleaning the TBs and then a spark plug change.

GLWT hope your Z gets up to par :tup:

Pint,

I've been having the same issue over the last 2 months. The problem is very random like you said, but lately I've been trying to zero down on the culprit. Here's the info I've gathered so far and I hope it helps people here.

2011 Base Z - Auto - 50k miles
K&N Typhoon, BERK HFC, BERK CBE

- K&N Filters cleaned
- MAF haven't touched
- Spark plugs haven't touched
- Oil Change Full Synthetic Mobil 1 @ 49k miles
- New Battery
- Fuel pump and TB cleaned

The car ran smooth for about a week after getting the fuel pump and TB cleaned at Baker Nissan in Houston. After that the starting issue happened again. Took 4 tries before it would start. Just yesterday I was traveling across town at 5pm rush hour in 97 degrees weather. A lot of stop and go with my AC on. After about an hour I noticed that my RPM was dropping very low when braking in traffic. I turned off the AC to see if that was the issue. My RPM stopped dropping low after that but this needs more feedback and testing if anyone can help. I guess this also confirms that heat plays a role.

Also on Tuesday 6/17 I got off work and my car wouldn't start. I just replaced the battery 2 weeks before. Coworker gave me a jump and since then the car has been fine. I don't know what drained a new battery once and then work fine afterwards. Could this be connected to the RPM start issue?

UPDATE 6/20 11:50pm : Just was about to get a midnight snack but car battery is dead. I think its my factory car alarm that's draining the battery since this was the only time I didn't lock it since the first time my battery died.

Having the same damn issue, 3 diff dealers couldn't figure it out....i think ac may have a role in this...funny enough I was thinking to say screw it and trade it in for a beemer, but some beemers are having the same problem lol

N55 DCT stalling/dying at idle - Page 7

Any updates ?

Hey, Pintsize725. I think I may be having the same problem as you. My Nismo started ding that earlier this evening. I've had a full tank of gas for about a day now. I ran to subway to get something. It started up like normal. I was in the store for about 10 to 15 min. I came out and it took 3 tries; on the last try I pressed the gas pedal down a bit and it started. Luckily, there weren't any other cars around, but it was embarrassing to say the least. I've had the Gen 3 Stillen intakes for about a year with probably close to 20,000 miles on them. Does anyone know if the dealer cleans them with the scheduled maintenance? I had the 30,000 mile one done a couple of months back, and I'm wondering if they even touched the intakes. They were installed by Nissan back in New Orleans. I'm dreading the bumper removal bit :-/

The sensors? They should but probably don't. I'm glad I'm not the only one having this problem at least, I thought I was crazy.

I guess they would clean the sensors, but I was asking about the Stillen conical filters. I feel your pain. I definitely want to get to the bottom of it sooner rather than later since it's my daily driver. I plan on going to the dealership on Monday to get it checked out. If I get any hassle from them, I'm going to bring it over to the Z clinic.

I would almost say definitely not because it's aftermarket but I could be wrong.

I need to find someone to clean my TBs to see if it fixes it. I also feel like it might be part of a cooling/AC issue since I always have the AC on and run around in the Z during the hottest parts of the day. :/