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Im really thinking the AC and outside temp is playing a big role. I got my car back from the dealership and they said they couldn't find out what's wrong. Next day I was driving home from work and stopped by Walmart. So 15-20mins later I get to my car and it barely managed to start up. I'm starting to think that Baker Nissan in Houston did not clean my TB. Let me know if cleaning yours fixes the issue Pint.
It feels like it has a fuel starvation issue. My car feels slow and sluggish when driving. I'm going to try to get a tune-up and new spark plugs to see if that helps with the issue also. Quote:
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Just double checking, are any of you able to keep the engine running by giving it some gas as it struggles to idle on start?
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Update: Just spoke to a good friend of mine from Houston Z's. He says it could possibly be a heat soak issue with the intakes. I'm going to get my filters and MAF sensors cleaned and get back to yall by this weekend. I have K&N Typhoons which are short ram so I'm hoping this is the cause of the problem.
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Similiar to yours mine struggles to reach idle, gets rough, then dies. Without giving it some gas, it would take at least 3 tries to get the car to idle without dying. So when that happens, I tap the throttle a bit to keep it from struggling and it's fine. It doesn't matter what temperature it is.
I think for awhile people called it a "hot start" issue in which the car wouldn't start after shutting it off. Mine would do this regardless of temperature - even when it's cold. |
Can you get heat soak issues even without a proper aftermarket intake? I've got the K&N + MAF tube set up.
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My car does this as well when its hot. That's all I got lol. Hasn't done it in about 3 months though.
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Cleaned my MAF sensors last night and noticed small improvements when driving. However the RPM issue when doing a warm start is still there. I might put my stock intakes back in and see if the heat soak was the culprit.
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My Nismo 370Z '11 had this happened twice, one at around 30 and close to 40k miles. I now have 46k miles and one or two times it sounded like it was going to do it.
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I remembered at least one owner fixed the hot start issue by replacing the fuel injectors. At least one was leaky after shutting off the car.
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Sounds like more than just one of us are having this issue.
Seems to be during very hot days after we run the car for a little bit, go inside, come back out and try and start the car. For me, I just give it a little gas and it revs up enough to keep the car going. I am going to be replacing spark plugs and cleaning TB's myself and see if that fixes the issue. My car used to fire up strong 24/7. Now it fires up strong about 50% of the time. 85k on my '09 Z |
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I might possibly have some time this coming Sunday (6th), but our best bet is probably the weekend of the 19th. |
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I've had it happen on my '09 with 285,000kms, never cleaned the TB or MAP. happens every now and again, (has over the years, not a new thing)cold start, hot start hasn't mattered. By every once and a while I mean once every 3-4 months it'll happen once. a little tap on the gas and it's good. I don't think it has ever idled awesome. I changed the plugs about 100k ago, so it's due again soon. The TB's I looked at when I changed the plugs the first time and they were clean. I do a lot of hwy driving so they stay pretty clean. lol
Oh I have Stillen G3 intakes... |
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Damn right, whats that approx 200K miles? |
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G3 intake Magnaflow exhaust, had a CNT Racing one first, liked it better Hypertech programmer I had the SL done twice, once because it failed, the second was the recall ECU died the first winter, had it changed. And on my 3rd CSC and Master... Oh and I had to do the front hubs. I'm driving down to San Diego with it leaving Calgary on the 12th to the West Coast, (Vancouver) then all the way down the Coastal Hwy, then across to Vegas, and home, I should be about 300k buy the end of the month. I want to get to 400k before I sell it. And yep I drive it all year round, I run a 350Z 18 with winter rubber. |
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In my case, the car was sitting under a covered car port for several hours before taking the quick trip to subway which was literally a mile away from my apartment. I ended taking the plunge and cleaning the Stillen intakes last Sunday. It was pretty easy. lol I definitely found out about the dealership not cleaning them filters despite installing them. The filters were definitely in need of cleaning with large black spots on 50% of the surface of one of them. I also cleaned both MAFs. The car definitely runs smoother. Haven't had any repeat issues. Knock on wood. It seems this occurrence is random and rare for some and more frequent for others.
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Change the oil every month? How many miles do you drive her per month? |
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How much did ECU replacement cost you if out of warranty? |
If you're having to pay out of pocket, consider the ZSpeed HD CSC or the Z1 CSC Delete Kit. Specialty Z also has a rebuildable clutch kit with a tilton CSC.
You won't have to replace them again. Just the CMC, which is A LOT cheaper. |
Whoa 300k... dude that's pretty decent I've always heard the HR's were tough. Soo yeah as for getting your moneys worth you have without a doubt. I am only at 18k and haven't had this issue yet but if I were in your guys shoes I would do these things in this order. I have always been a believer that if your trouble shooting start off cheap and work your way up to the expensive stuff.
1. Get some electronic cleaner and hit the MAFS 2. If you have access to a smoke machine use that to find if there is a vacuum leak. if you don't, and want to stay cheap about it get a cigar and some sort of tube or like 3 or 4 toilet paper rolls tape them together take some puffs off it and blow into the engine bay look for vacuum leaks (anywhere you find it pulling air into the engine) 3.Clean the tb's and intake filters 4. change out your spark plugs Sorry if I seem like I'm repeating the same thing that's been said but I would do that order of maintenance before I started really slamming money into the problem. |
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OP, clean your throttle bodies.
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I am going to be doing this DIY hose delete as well and could do your car, too if interested: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...nt-delete.html Also, I'll be doing my power steering fluid. I don't think it uses much fluid, so there will probably be plenty to do both cars if yours needs it as well. |
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Probably a yes on the PS fluid. Maybe you could help me get the side skirts aligned a bit better with 3m tape? I'll see if I can get a thicker version in town today. |
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The PSF capacity is 1.125 qt. I think I have 2 qt of Redline fluid, so it'll just depend on how much fluid it takes to do the ranger protocol a few times. At the very least, we can get some clean fluid into the system. I'll take a look at your side skirts for sure, but I can't promise anything. Fitment concerns are the primary reason I haven't done any mods to the exterior body. It's kind of annoying when people post that a part has perfect fitment, but then you can clearly tell the gaps aren't within OEM specs :shakes head: |
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Pint I think my issue is just heat soak. There's a few other threads claiming acceleration lag and my issues match that as well. I already had my TB cleaned so yeah I'm just gonna assume it's heat soak due to Houston humidity and heat.
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Car doesn't feel as laggy as before and I haven't noticed the random rpm drops that I used to have. We'll see how long it lasts.
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Any turbo owners have issues with throttle relearn and idle air calibration after cleaning the throttles?
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So far, so good.
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