Help battery over charge

pokeyl · 12-24-2013, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luigi90210

well first things first, measure the voltage while the car is running at the battery terminals, you might not be overcharging but the car can think you are if the voltage sensor is bad(i think thats what the gauge and ECU uses)

you should read exactly 14.7v if its a little higher or lower, dont worry about it(meaning dont worry about overcharging your battery take the car in to get the sensor replaced if under warranty), as long as its under 15v and above 13.6v, its fine

if you are seeing an overcharged battery, first off take it to the dealer if you have warranty still, either your voltage regulator or your alternator has gone bad and request for your battery to be tested as well, overcharging a battery can lead to bad news(explosions, dead batteries, ect.) later down the road depending on how bad the overcharge is

if dealer wont test the battery, take it somewhere else and have the battery tested, if it isnt passing take the car back to the dealer and demand for a new battery since it was being overcharged

I have 15.0 to 15.2 at the battery running
Car is out of warranty 43K miles
I hope it corrects in the morning, but solid state

luigi90210 · 12-24-2013, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pokeyl

I have 15.0 to 15.2 at the battery running
Car is out of warranty 43K miles
I hope it corrects in the morning, but solid state

is that with the stock gauge or a multimeter?

either way if you are getting 15.2 with a multimeter check terminals and make sure they are clean(you can clean them with a wire brush and baking soda mixed with water), make sure everything is bolted up right(no loose cables)

dirty terminals can cause resistance and that can create an overcharge senario

if the battery terminals are spotless and connections are perfect check your alternator, take your multimeter and attach it to the alternator itself and checking the voltage coming out of the alternator, it should read 14.7 or somewhere around that area, if you are seeing more than your alternator is the problem and it needs to be replaced

EDIT if you can take a pic if battery before cleaning it if it needs to be cleaned

pokeyl · 12-24-2013, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luigi90210

is that with the stock gauge or a multimeter?

either way if you are getting 15.2 with a multimeter check terminals and make sure they are clean(you can clean them with a wire brush and baking soda mixed with water), make sure everything is bolted up right(no loose cables)

dirty terminals can cause resistance and that can create an overcharge senario

if the battery terminals are spotless and connections are perfect check your alternator, take your multimeter and attach it to the alternator itself and checking the voltage coming out of the alternator, it should read 14.7 or somewhere around that area, if you are seeing more than your alternator is the problem and it needs to be replaced

EDIT if you can take a pic if battery before cleaning it if it needs to be cleaned

I'll work it AM, the only thing I have done is cleaned/degreased the engine last week. I'll reseat all the connectors. I did not get any in the battery area.

luigi90210 · 12-24-2013, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pokeyl

I'll work it AM, the only thing I have done is cleaned/degreased the engine last week. I'll reseat all the connectors. I did not get any in the battery area.

let me know how it goes

also did you happen to use water when cleaning the engine? if you did, did you get any around the alternator?

pokeyl · 12-27-2013, 06:56 PM

blown 10A fuse at battery fuse block. I hope carquest will take back the Alt in the morning. I am so happy!!!!!!!!!!

SouthArk370Z · 12-27-2013, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pokeyl

blown 10A fuse at battery fuse block. I hope carquest will take back the Alt in the morning. I am so happy!!!!!!!!!!

Which fuse?

pokeyl · 12-27-2013, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

Which fuse?

Open the battery compartment, the small fuse block in front of the battery has a pull off top. There are two 10A fuses in the block. One is for the charging system the name of each fuse is cast/molded into the top of the cover.

SouthArk370Z · 12-28-2013, 04:16 AM

Fuse #32 supplies battery voltage signal to the "S" terminal on the regulator. Apparently the charging system reverted to its equivalent of limp mode when it lost that signal.

How did you determine it was the fuse? Was there something that lead you in that direction or were you just checking all the fuses?

pokeyl · 12-28-2013, 07:35 AM

After picking up the new alternator, I did not want to change it as the GTM supercharger kit makes it an all day job. So before I started I looked for other causes...

Looking at the wiring "Charging System" (CHR-15) I inspectied the fuses, found one blown. I have a FSM and it never even talks about a fuse on the S termanal. Only if you are missing voltage, repair wiring. Nissan did not make this manual easy to navigate.

The other part of troulbleshooting this was the "Brake Lite" was on as well. I also looked at the wiring for that. It is just the switch and the LED. Not connected to the other LED in any wey that you can see in the wiring. After that you have to be getting power to the LED to light both of them from some other path.

I still can't find that path but if I could see the inside of the LED's waring lites I think you would find the two on the same board without any power isolation. Power is sitting on the brake looking for a ground and the battery is the same. The groung came from the voltage regulator when the power was not supplied to termial "S"???

We will never know, but if you wasnted to see what I did, just pull the 10A fuse. I hope this helps other someday. I have to take the alternator back now, full refund from Carquest.

pokeyl · 12-28-2013, 07:42 AM

Text from manual

S TERMINAL CIRCUIT
Description INFOID:0000000004457529
The output voltage of the alternator is controlled by the IC voltage regulator at the “S” terminal detecting the
input voltage.

The “S” terminal circuit detects the battery voltage to adjust the alternator output voltage with the IC voltage
regulator.

Diagnosis Procedure INFOID:0000000004457530

1.CHECK “S” TERMINAL CONNECTION
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Check if “S” terminal is clean and tight.
Is the inspection result normal?
YES >> GO TO 2.
NO >> Repair “S” terminal connection. Confirm repair by performing complete
Starting/Charging system
test. Refer to Technical Service Bulletin.

2.CHECK “S” TERMINAL CIRCUIT
Check voltage between alternator harness connector and ground.
Is the inspection result normal?
YES >> Refer to CHG-3, "Work Flow".
NO >> Check harness for open between alternator and fuse.

Do you see the words "check fuse" in here?

12-27-2013, 06:56 PM	#5 (permalink)
pokeyl Track Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: DFS Posts: 901 Drives: ??? Rep Power: 56	blown 10A fuse at battery fuse block. I hope carquest will take back the Alt in the morning. I am so happy!!!!!!!!!! __________________ It's not my fault I'm old, I was born a very long time ago!

12-28-2013, 04:16 AM	#8 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 8,435 Drives: 2014 Challenger Rep Power: 324199	Fuse #32 supplies battery voltage signal to the "S" terminal on the regulator. Apparently the charging system reverted to its equivalent of limp mode when it lost that signal. How did you determine it was the fuse? Was there something that lead you in that direction or were you just checking all the fuses? __________________ Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

12-28-2013, 07:35 AM	#9 (permalink)
pokeyl Track Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: DFS Posts: 901 Drives: ??? Rep Power: 56	After picking up the new alternator, I did not want to change it as the GTM supercharger kit makes it an all day job. So before I started I looked for other causes... Looking at the wiring "Charging System" (CHR-15) I inspectied the fuses, found one blown. I have a FSM and it never even talks about a fuse on the S termanal. Only if you are missing voltage, repair wiring. Nissan did not make this manual easy to navigate. The other part of troulbleshooting this was the "Brake Lite" was on as well. I also looked at the wiring for that. It is just the switch and the LED. Not connected to the other LED in any wey that you can see in the wiring. After that you have to be getting power to the LED to light both of them from some other path. I still can't find that path but if I could see the inside of the LED's waring lites I think you would find the two on the same board without any power isolation. Power is sitting on the brake looking for a ground and the battery is the same. The groung came from the voltage regulator when the power was not supplied to termial "S"??? We will never know, but if you wasnted to see what I did, just pull the 10A fuse. I hope this helps other someday. I have to take the alternator back now, full refund from Carquest. __________________ It's not my fault I'm old, I was born a very long time ago!

12-28-2013, 07:42 AM	#10 (permalink)
pokeyl Track Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: DFS Posts: 901 Drives: ??? Rep Power: 56	Text from manual S TERMINAL CIRCUIT Description INFOID:0000000004457529 The output voltage of the alternator is controlled by the IC voltage regulator at the “S” terminal detecting the input voltage. The “S” terminal circuit detects the battery voltage to adjust the alternator output voltage with the IC voltage regulator. Diagnosis Procedure INFOID:0000000004457530 1.CHECK “S” TERMINAL CONNECTION 1. Turn ignition switch OFF. 2. Check if “S” terminal is clean and tight. Is the inspection result normal? YES >> GO TO 2. NO >> Repair “S” terminal connection. Confirm repair by performing complete Starting/Charging system test. Refer to Technical Service Bulletin. 2.CHECK “S” TERMINAL CIRCUIT Check voltage between alternator harness connector and ground. Is the inspection result normal? YES >> Refer to CHG-3, "Work Flow". NO >> Check harness for open between alternator and fuse. Do you see the words "check fuse" in here? __________________ It's not my fault I'm old, I was born a very long time ago!

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