Oil Temperatures ?
 

How hot is too hot. What temperature is detrimental to the engine?
Chuck

I think at 260 degrees F is when it goes into a safe mode automatically, cutting significant power to the engine. I'm considering an oil cooler as I hit 220 with no effort on the highway, at least where I'm at in Florida where temperature and humidity are both always high.

Temps
 

Good! I did not know it has a safe mode. Txs

I don't get worried until my oil temp gets above 240 or so (200-220 seems to be normal). As mentioned above, the car will protect itself when the oil temp gets to 260 or there about. The oil can take up to about 300 F.

I would hit 220-240 with spirited driving and once I installed the 25 row cooler I see 190-210 and 220 if I push her hard.

Sounds nice can't wait to have my cooler !

300F. Read the test requirements for new SM/SN API certified oils. Why do you think the Z engineers decided on the limp mode temp of ~280F and not 260, 240, 264, 228, etc? The 260F temp limit is passe and old oil technology. Newer materials technology can withstand higher temps for modern cars thus the requirement for SM/SN oils.

This is correct. Stage one limp mode isn't until 280F, stage two limp mode is 300F but probably pretty difficult to reach when already restricted.

Synthetic oils can handle the high temperatures much better, but even they suffer some break down if above 260F for an extended period. It is a good idea to shorten your oil change interval if your engine spends time at high temperatures frequently.

Which cooler did you get?

I rarely get above 220 with normal highway driving

I once knew high oil temps. Since my oil cooler was installed I have actually seen 260 degrees once on a 100 degree day at the track. Otherwise it stays well below. High normal is 220 ish.

What about when we reach 220 and we get some kind of limp mode where it bogs it down on launches? Is that just a myth or a defect on some of our 370Z's? When I get to 220 I notice a bad bogging off the line. I have to launch RPMs at 3K to beat a Civic.

:tup:

Didn't you install the Nissan (Nismo) version or is it someone else I am thinking of?

Not a myth mines does it and there is a noticable difference in power after my oil temp gets over 180 ish or it could be the coolant temp either way yes the hotter the car runs the slower it gets . i have an oil cooler (25 row) and added a switch for the fan it performs way better than previously .

Under 180 degrees you're still most likely on the warmup map. I wouldn't be beating on the car until its over 180.

On a related note, to the best of my knowledge, pushing the car hard before temps approach 170-180* isn't a great idea (but if more recent data says otherwise, please correct me).

A tuner friend has told me that the ECU will pull a bit of timing as the oil temps climb over 200*F.

OP, unless you are routinely seeing temps over 240* F in normal driving, I wouldn't even worry about it.

220F is not normal. It is freakin' hot. This has been discussed ad nauseam. Get an oil cooler! It is my next mod. :tup:

Oil Temperatures ?
 

On this car, 220 is nothing to be concerned about. It's not ideal, but its not a huge problem. Still, get an oil cooler and use a good full synthetic oil.

yeah not beating on it but i can feel the difference even at light throttle its so much more responsive even at very low rpms .

i imagine with a tune and a smooth throttle map it will feel so much better

That's probably more a function of the fact that underhood temps haven't really started to climb rather than oil temps. You're still on the cold start enrichment map, so RPM are higher too, which may be partially responsible for what you're experiencing.

Even with the crappy stock cooler, I reach 220 easy on the streets without pushing it.

On a 96F day. 30 minute session at a trackday. The hotest I've seen my oil temp was 222F with a 34 row oil cooler and an oil pan spacer. ;)

When I had the nismo adapter for my 34row iwas doin a lot of canyon caeving and it was 115* in palmsprings. Oil never got over 220*.

Just wanted to confirm, if I was to purchase the oil cooler that Nissan is offering does it void warranty??

If something happens as a direct result of the oil cooler or install, yes. Otherwise, no.

Buy the z1 kit!

Instead of Nissan's? While still not screwing my warranty?

You should have used the search button on this site to see the hundreds of discussions in regards to this subject matter. None the less they are better boses and it has a thermostat co trolled adapter...

Well I thought since it would be a simple yes or no question would save me time thus why I asked it here.

Who sells the best oil pan spacer?

Then the answer is no it won't void out your warranty, they have to prove that the cooler was the cause behind the failure of your car. Z1's kit is far superior than the nissans, I have first hand experience with this due to the fact that I had the kit goodwilled to me from coporate because I complained how hot the oil was from the start of my purchase. I retrofitted my kit with z1 hoses and a thermostatic adapter so that I could have some means of cooling.

I'm not sure what island it is that you reside on, you won't need the 34 row cooler maybe not even the 25. You should in all seriousness be okay with the 19 row and it is just under $500 if im not mistaken. There are probably dozens of threads on this subject that you can read about before your purchase if you so choose do to that. Maybe you want to go with ae since it is a horizontally based cooler...I don't know but atleast if you search you can get yourself some information on what options are out there

Jim Wolf Technology does. By the way, two different Nissan management -types (both knowledgeable and trustworthy) have told me that the oil pan spacer will cause warranty issues.

.....if it is related to a failure. Just thought I'd finish your sentence so noone starts spreading misinformation over the internet. :rolleyes:

There are many things that will cause the ECU to reduce engine power (not necessarily limp mode). (Intake Air Temp, Water Temp, and Oil Temp are three of them.) It's very possible that you are hitting one of the others. IIRC, IAT is pretty low; somewhere around 85-90 F.

It would be nice if someone would post a list of params/values where the engine starts pulling power. IIRC, the limp mode values are in the FSM but I don't remember seeing anything on "low-power mode." If it's in the FSM, please point me to the right page(s). TIA.

This is not misinformation as I post nothing without the facts to back it up. The issue lies in the oil pan being lowered due to the spacer. I was informed of this by (1) a service manager with whom I have been working for more than 10 years and who has professional Nissan experience in service and racing since the Datsun days and (2) a sales manager with whom I have been working for more than 5 years -- he too has experience with Nissan service, sales and racing since the Datsun days. Feel free to confirm the oil pan spacer issue.

The oil plan spacer is risky -- if you ever have an issue after installing one, the burden of proof will fall heavily on you that it was nort the culprit or at least a contributor. For the marginal and I mean VERY marginal improvement in cooling the extra quart provides, it is not worth it. Get an oil cooler.

That's why I won't run a spacer. Making the oil pan the lowest part of the car scares the hell out of me.


Or GTM's new oil pan. It holds quite a bit more oil, and doesn't look like it sits lower than stock.

:tup:

Thanks for the info Roy, cheers. :tiphat: