Nissan 370Z Forum
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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Engine & Drivetrain (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/)
-   -   Oil Temperatures ? (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/75716-oil-temperatures.html)

7speed 08-26-2013 11:14 AM
Usually driving it doesn't go over 220 for me, if rolling hard I saw at most 230. But that was going pretty fast on a road trip.

But the other day I noticed my temp up higher than I ever seen. This was with me letting my car idle for almost an hour when I fell asleep during lunch break. I got up to almost 260.

L33T Z34 08-26-2013 01:38 PM
When having fun up in the RPMs, I'm in the following range w/my Nissan Motorsports oil cooler: 90°C - 101°C. I rarely go over 90°C street driving unless it’s a 100°F+ day. OEM radiator and AmsOil Signature 5W-30 oil.

gussyturbo z 08-26-2013 02:08 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by onzedge (Post 2461533)
:tup:
thanks for the info man! i do have an oil cooler just want to keep it cooler then what it already is.

IDZRVIT 08-26-2013 08:34 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by onzedge (Post 2461469)
This is not misinformation as I post nothing without the facts to back it up. The issue lies in the oil pan being lowered due to the spacer. I was informed of this by (1) a service manager with whom I have been working for more than 10 years and who has professional Nissan experience in service and racing since the Datsun days and (2) a sales manager with whom I have been working for more than 5 years -- he too has experience with Nissan service, sales and racing since the Datsun days. Feel free to confirm the oil pan spacer issue.

The oil plan spacer is risky -- if you ever have an issue after installing one, the burden of proof will fall heavily on you that it was nort the culprit or at least a contributor. For the marginal and I mean VERY marginal improvement in cooling the extra quart provides, it is not worth it. Get an oil cooler.
I know what you meant but others (yes, they are out there) may not.

Rusty 08-27-2013 03:56 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gussyturbo z (Post 2461377)
Who sells the best oil pan spacer?
I have the AAM spacer. It holds about an extra quart of oil. Oil changes take 7 quarts. Thinking on going with the GTM pan later when the credit card allows me.

Verbal21 08-27-2013 09:33 AM
So I plan on getting the 19 row Z1 cooler and was just wondering, is getting the Oil Sandwich Plate Adapter with thermostatic and protective house wrapping necessary?

Chuck33079 08-27-2013 09:43 AM
You want the thermostatic sandwich plate.

Verbal21 08-27-2013 09:47 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2463087)
You want the thermostatic sandwich plate.
Cool, thanks. So I guess the house wrapping isn't absolutely necessary.

Chuck33079 08-27-2013 09:49 AM
I don't have the Z1 kit, so I'm not sure what heat wrapping you're talking about. In general, heat shielding is never a bad idea.

Arrvaxx 08-27-2013 09:52 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verbal21 (Post 2463079)
So I plan on getting the 19 row Z1 cooler and was just wondering, is getting the Oil Sandwich Plate Adapter with thermostatic and protective house wrapping necessary?
Especially in NJ if you drive in cool weather.

onzedge 08-27-2013 10:01 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2463087)
You want the thermostatic sandwich plate.
True. With an oil cooler, you should also consider a block-off plate for winter driving. The plate covers most of the oil cooler itself and allows the oil temperatures to get up to normal operating ranges.

onzedge 08-27-2013 10:01 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by IDZRVIT (Post 2462510)
I know what you meant but others (yes, they are out there) may not.
:tiphat:

Verbal21 08-27-2013 10:04 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arrvaxx (Post 2463103)
Especially in NJ if you drive in cool weather.
Quote:
Originally Posted by onzedge (Post 2463118)
True. With an oil cooler, you should also consider a block-off plate for winter driving. The plate covers most of the oil cooler itself and allows the oil temperatures to get up to normal operating ranges.
Very good points. Any recommendations on one compatible with the Z1 or are they universal?

SouthArk370Z 08-27-2013 10:20 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verbal21 (Post 2463123)
Very good points. Any recommendations on one compatible with the Z1 or are they universal?
Some are easier to R&R but it's just a flat sheet of something (I've seen everything from posterboard to plywood to Aluminum to stainless steel used) to block the air flow across the cooler. Ie, whether or not you can mount/unmount it easily is the biggest concern. Being in NJ and using the plate a lot, you probably want something a bit more substantial than paper or wood - Aluminum works well and is lightweight. You should be able to find something designed to work with your setup - I'd try Z1 first - if not, just about any shop that does sheet metal work should be able to fab something up or, if you are a DIYer, all you need is a sheet of Al and a small saw.

onzedge 08-27-2013 10:20 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verbal21 (Post 2463123)
Very good points. Any recommendations on one compatible with the Z1 or are they universal?
I fabricated my own with an aluminum sheet, tin snips and some Velcro.

Verbal21 08-27-2013 10:38 AM
I'll definitely look into that. Thanks for the info, guys.

Rusty 08-27-2013 12:34 PM
Duct tape. Old racers trick. With duct tape you can easily add or remove the tape to get your temps where you want them. ;)

Jamesb1 09-26-2013 10:51 PM
I had the same problem. The Nissan dealer told me the car goes into safe mode at around 200+ degrees. There is no fix for this. It's built into the ECU. I had them install an oil cooler they recommended, $1100 dollars total. The car runs full power all the time now. The oil temp stays at around 180 in city traffic and around 160 on the hwy. This will also extend the life of your engine if you like to drive hard.

Chuck33079 09-27-2013 06:56 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesb1 (Post 2506745)
I had the same problem. The Nissan dealer told me the car goes into safe mode at around 200+ degrees. There is no fix for this. It's built into the ECU. I had them install an oil cooler they recommended, $1100 dollars total. The car runs full power all the time now. The oil temp stays at around 180 in city traffic and around 160 on the hwy. This will also extend the life of your engine if you like to drive hard.
Safe mode is much higher than 200 degrees. Think about this- the oil needs to get higher than 212 degrees just to boil off any condensation. 200-220 is ok on this car. You'll see power loss from IATs, not oil temp. And you got boned on the oil cooler. First, you paid WAY too much for the unit and install, especially if it's the Nismo version without a thermostat. Labor was especially rapey. And if the oil is at 160 on the freeway, it's too cold. Cold oil is as bad as hot oil.

2011 Nismo#91 09-27-2013 10:29 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesb1 (Post 2506745)
I had the same problem. The Nissan dealer told me the car goes into safe mode at around 200+ degrees. There is no fix for this. It's built into the ECU. I had them install an oil cooler they recommended, $1100 dollars total. The car runs full power all the time now. The oil temp stays at around 180 in city traffic and around 160 on the hwy. This will also extend the life of your engine if you like to drive hard.
A Nissan dealer told me convertibles are faster because they don't have a top.
If you want to learn about how to spend money go to a dealer.

If you want some actual useful information on oil.
Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...oll_b_gone.gif

SouthArk370Z 09-27-2013 10:48 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2506877)
... the oil needs to get higher than 212 degrees just to boil off any condensation. ...
I'm picking nits and it doesn't affect your conclusion but you don't have to get to the boiling point of water for the water to evaporate. Granted, it will happen much faster and do a better job above boiling but lower temps will drive off water.

Chuck33079 09-27-2013 10:59 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 2507150)
I'm picking nits and it doesn't affect your conclusion but you don't have to get to the boiling point of water for the water to evaporate. Granted, it will happen much faster and do a better job above boiling but lower temps will drive off water.
Eventually, yeah. Depending on the length of your commute. It'll take forever at 160 degrees.

IDZRVIT 09-27-2013 04:56 PM
The lubricity of the oil is also reduced at 160* or lower. That's worse than any condensation in the oil which will emulsify or evaporate eventually.

snowsurfdirtx 09-28-2013 02:15 PM
Word of the day, lubricity. Using that at work today.

Shouldn't a thermostat, whether its sandwich plate or in line, take away the need for a cooler cover?

synolimit 09-28-2013 02:56 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowsurfdirtx (Post 2508540)
Word of the day, lubricity. Using that at work today.

Shouldn't a thermostat, whether its sandwich plate or in line, take away the need for a cooler cover?
I think about 10% still gets through which is why guys end up making block off plates in the winter.

onzedge 09-28-2013 02:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit (Post 2508563)
I think about 10% still gets through which is why guys end up making block off plates in the winter.
:iagree:


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