What is your oil pressure after oil cooler install?
 

Did you pressure drip? If so what was it and what is it after you installed an oil cooler? (At idle and with revs)

Not a lot of people will have an answer for you because almost no one has an oil pressure gauge installed, maybe the FI guys

Not sure if this will help you, but I recently experienced a weird oil pressure drop after a road trip. (I have the Z1 25 row cooler) Generally, when the oil is heated up 90C (194F), I was seeing around 15psi at idle and 30psi at 45-50 (113-122F) degrees Celsius at idle. All of the sudden after my road trip idle pressures are now 15psi at 50C and 7-8psi at 80C.

Don't know the reason for this, however at least you can benchmark your oil pressures off of mine. FWIW I changed to Mobil 1 0W40 at my last oil change and now have about 2500km on the oil.

That sounds really strange. Oil pressure shouldn't change like that unless I'm reading your post wrong.

I had a gauge fail me before, scared the **** out of me when I saw zero pressure. Gauge might be crapping out.

I'll bet. How fast did you get the car turned off and onto the shoulder?

I'd put my money on a failing sender if the pressure changes like that.

Hmm.. Thing is the car feels a bit different too, and is a lot quieter than before at given rpms. That wouldn't be a sender issue. Gonna have nissan look at it next week.

Yeah, get it checked out. Something's not right. Oil pressure doesn't just change.

In to see what the problem was..

I have the same pressure before and after oil cooler. My idle pressure after oil is at proper temp or well beyond that is no lower than 35-40psi.

35-40 sounds high for idle at temp. What oil are you running?
I never got that kind of pressure at idle without the cooler.

Im gonna write down my pressures and post them here ASAP.

Mine when heated up is around 18psi.

I have no idea when it failed, but I looked, and pulled over immediately in a 35mph. Checked the oil, the factory light wasn't on so after a minute or two of thinking I knew it had to be the aftermarket failing and continued on my way.

Domestic cars run a lot lower.


I also run about 85psi at about 60-70mph. Which is normal. Sometimes it will go down to 30psi at idle. I run Mobil one but only cause I got 50qts next to nothing.

Maybe it's the location of the sensor. But it's getting moved to where the factory sensor is now for my TT build. Maybe my old location is a issue.

Mine is wired in at the stock location with a T adaptor.

Mine was in the thermostatic oil plate. Now it's moving to the stock location via GTM's adapter.

This is first time seeing this thread and the second time I've heard of this oil pressure/oil cooler problem in the past couple of days. Now I'm getting slightly concerned about my 34 row install.

Why get concerned? One poster has an issue that I seriously doubt is oil cooler related. There's not really anything to worry about.

I have a Z1 34R kit and an oil pressure gauge sitting in my garage. My plan is to install the gauge first and get some data over a range of temps and RPMs then install the cooler and compare before and after pressures. I'll post up what I find.

Well mainly because I had seen someone mention this on Z1's Facebook page the other day, and then saw this today.

No need to worry mate I have a 34 row cooler from Gtm and I was gonna chime in to give my data via "Oil Temps" because I've gone on trips and DD but this isnt the case so no worries:tup:

I wouldn't be worried at all, heck us FI guys are also running oil to the turbo with no issues. This pump can handle it.

Thanks guys... Gonna get started on the install today.

Update:
Changed the oil today, put in some Mobil 1 5w30. The oil coming out looked fine, probably still had lots of life left in it. Rechecked everything again for leaks and tightness, still nothing found.

The oil pressure issue is still present after the oil change, if anything maybe even a bit more evident now. Had a weird ticking sound coming from the top right side of the engine, not injector sound something else louder that wasn't there before and kinda a weird smell. Nissan is taking a look at it thursday, I'm pretty in the dark as to what it could be right now.

Valve ticking?

Could be? I don't know my engine sounds that well to tell lol

Update:
Picking up the car from Nissan tomorrow, it has been fixed under warranty. The issue was a gasket that had blown out, in the rear timing chain cover, which was replaced. It caused the drop in oil pressure, not enough to cause anything too serious but enough to notice it with the AEM gauge. Without the gauge, it would be impossible to tell anything had happened unless more of the gasket blew out, to the point where the pressure was low enough at idle to trigger the low oil pressure warning light.

Apparently this has been seen before on Murano's by the dealership, and likely on Z's before as techline immediately suggested this as the cause of the issue to the dealership. No idea what caused it to happen, at least it is sorted out though. If it had been out of warranty, the expense would have been significant - about 20 hours labour!

Pic of the old cover and where the gasket was gone out:
http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...ver-gasket.jpg

How are you still under warranty Ed?

That's why it's good to have a gauge for oil pressure. The light on the dash is more of a "replace engine" light than a "low oil pressure" light. It comes on way too late to do anything to save the motor.

He obviously has a great relationship with the dealer. :tup:


FWIW, my oil pressure at normal operating temperature... 82c - 180f

While cruising 300kpa - 44psi

At idle 150kpa - 22psi

Mobile 1 Synthetic 5w30
Mobile 1 filter

Yea this nissan dealer is amazing, also I have stock engine so no reason my powertrain warranty wouldn't be good.

Kurt?

So my oil pressure is now higher than it was before, at 80C and idle, it sits at 30-33 psi. This is with a Fram oil filter and Mobil 1 5w30. This leads me to believe there may have been a small leak ever since I put the oil pressure gauge in and it just recently got bigger. Another good reason to let your engine and oil heat up before driving and let the oil heat ALL the way up before driving it hard.

Im 10psi at idle.
Around 30-35psi cruising at temp.
Around 60psi at 70mph in 6th

Oil is 5w40 rotella T6 and filter is puralator gold

This reading ALL depends on where in the oil system you put your sensors.

My pressure on the oil cooler return line is:

20 stopped idle 30-40 traffic idle 100running hard

Local shops confirmed thats about normal..

should i get the aem 100 psi or 150 psi oil pressure gauge? still debating.. i read some goes over 100psi and some doesnt with the 370z...

I have Defi gauges. And it really helps out when you use proprely formed sentences and stuff. I am surprised that we haven't seen leet speak on the forum yet. This place is starting to look like Facebook.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

i haven't seen a rear timing chain cover before but if my guess is right, the noise was probably your CVTC (variable valve timing) actuator or solenoid due to insufficient oil pressure. The change in engine response and behaviour is a direct result. It's a metallic ticking noise and it's pretty much as you described - litle valves rattling.

Would running 0w40 have contributed to blowing the gasket since it's a bit thicker when at operating temp? Thicker oil can create higher pressure. But a lot of folks are running 0w40 and 5w40 with no issue.... I'm running 5w40 and it's restored my CVTC functionality at 4k+ rpm. I might need new solenoids in the future. Prior to this oil change, i was using genuine Nissan full synthetic 5w30 oil.

Mine is about 25 psi at idle with 5w40 and it uses far less oil than 5w30.