PS made this in about 10 minutes for a Hemi with stuff just laying in my garage. even junk setup correctly can beat any $200-$500 Can any day of the week.

as for R&D, here is a first quick prototype i installed on a Ram Hemi (the oil consumption motor of the world!!!) at about 1000 miles on this oil dump, 3000 miles total on the AOS.





http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps4c66eaea.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psa3b2fc5b.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps3d8945c0.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psc1793f49.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps964834ce.jpg

as you can see, tons of oil on the inside of the main chamber, on the outside of the second chamber, yet the outlet and the outlet hose are so bone dry you could eat off of them!! i promise promise promise a catch can will let a lot of oil back out the Can and your hose will be covered. i only made this Can because a regular Can on my WRX and dual regular Cans were letting oil back out. how do i know? clear hoses my friend.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...imit/001-9.jpg

if you want 100% oil free intake with a regular Can you have to vent to atmos like i did with the dual Cans. however its illegal for track use since that is a direct line for your valve cover vents and crank vent to blow oil all over the track. for normall DD and stuff its fine.

for referance what the hoses used to look like

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...imit/008-4.jpg

I have to say pretty impressive.

Thanks spohn. Like I said though I have to thank Crawford though for the idea. Pretty much why I don't sell them. Not enough time and I don't wanna be a thief even though they kinda are selling at $500 each for theirs.

You should really ask if the R&D of his is equal to the company Mishimoto copied. ;)

I'd run a two Crawford AOS setup if my wallet could handle it. Since that's a lit of coin, I'll go with the Sakou Michi. I can't find it now, but I've seen a breakdown of the internal baffling and it looks to be acceptable.

Do we have 4 valve cover vents? The two on the front on the mani are obvious but what are the back 2 that run to the inlet tubes? Where is the PCV valve?

I'd have to look. The couple of FI guys running catch cans that I've seen in person opted to use two cans. Plus, there's a easy place to put one on either side without running hose all over the engine bay. It just looks sloppy, and I'm OCD enough about the engine bay that it would really irk me.

The ones I've seen running 2 are just each valve cover. That can go to one can. I haven't see a crank vent can yet.

I'll try to find the diagram. I remember a crank vent being mentioned, but I barely remember what I had for breakfast, much less a picture I saw months ago.

Run one can and T tape the lines in a orderly fashion. IMO If you mount the can the the middle of the front section of the motor the lines will be perfect equal length. And the color is is important. Like black.

I'd want to use clear hose for the outlets at the very least.

You mean this? I just find it weird that the crank vents are so close to the valve vents and they're both on the valve cover. If the hoses on the inlet tube are in fact the crank vents then they must just run through the valve train down into the block some how.

Although now that I think about that, that's impossible. The crank vents always get the PCV, not the valve cover. So the inlet tube hoses are the valve vents and the PCV vented hoses are the crank vents.

I don't think I'd run it like this though. I'd want the cranks by themselves and the valves by themselves.

That looks like it. Good find.

As I said I ordered a Mishimoto catch can. If you do also they are on back ordered till mid July.

Covered this in a different thread, but the fat connection (rear most) on the valve (cam) cover that connects to the intake pipes is an inlet, the skinny (forward) is the outlet, the system depends on manifold vacuum to evacuate the crankcase and heads.

Confirmed this via vacuum testing the engine while running and monitoring the MAF voltages... The manifold vacuum draws air from the intake pipes, through the heads and crankcase and out the forward nipples.

Cans are only needed after the air exits the forward nipples.

And on topic, that catch can is beautiful and completely over-engineered/bling item. No way in hell I'd pay $500.

Hey Andrew, we should go into business making catch cans. ;)

I just sucked and blew. Flow confirmed :tup:

Hey don't forget me now! After a race or street time pull your manifold tubes. I wanna see how moist they get if any.

I checked after a short trip around the neighborhood and found oil in the inlet to the can, nothing on the outlet.

I'll do another check after some actual miles and the dyno day I have coming up and report back.

What affect does it have when you "Y" the inlet and outlet tubing? Or should you run two catch cans? the only can I have seen that has 2 inlets and 2 outlets is the ARC can.

I am worried that the joining of the two intakes will effect how the throttlebody on each side works by changing the return pressure or am I just smoking crack?

I have zero issue, just dynoed too with no tune and running a little rich. Also have about 27mpg! :happydance:

The valve covers come into the AOS bottom, there is internal baffling, then the top Y's off going to each port on the mani. The bottom is the drain hose. Again zero issues and collects a good amount every 1000 miles when I drain. The return hoses are also bone Fing dry :tup: I also cut my can in half and join it with a coupling so when I really want to clean it, I just pull it apart.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psa434778e.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...imit/craw3.jpg

I checked all my hosing the other day btw, this is with about 400-500 street miles (most of it hard driving for logging) and dyno time and found zero oil inside my post-can hoses and a good coating of it inside the can itself.

Looks like the separators are working as intended.:tup:

Thanks for the response makes me feel better about not being rash and buying two catch cans at once. :tup:

No prob

Dump'N on teh ground, like the early 60's cars is good enuff w/me...:cool:

I'm new to 370Z's - is this only for boosted Z's? I had a previous supercharged car (not my Z) with big boost that I put catch cans on.

Bought one for the driver's side then made the 2nd one for the passenger side.

Would this type of can work or do they need to hold vacuum on a Z?

My homemade catch can...

1 stainless steel water bottle (Walmart)
1 K&N 2" base filter w stainless steel top
5/8" brass garden hose coupler
JB Weld
5/8" hose
Stainless steel fasteners
2" aluminium strapping
Steel wool (placed inside to ensure no oil blows to the top and thru the filter)

Picked a water bottle with a top OD that matched the K&N filter I had laying around.
Drilled the side of the bottle to insert the brass garden hose coupler.
JB welded the coupler to the bottle.
Hooked up to the valve cover outlet
Mounted up the bottle with the strapping

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2/IMG_9818.jpg

Before...
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2/IMG_9823.jpg

After!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2/IMG_9824.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2/IMG_9828.jpg

You can see the Moroso tank & filter on the driver side - pretty close with the homemade - primary visual difference is the shape of the filters

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2/IMG_9827.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...2/IMG_9826.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps525f6ded.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psed10aab4.jpg

Worked out great on this application at 22 lbs of boost. Very secure and fitment was excellent.

And you did this how? The 370z system is hooked to the inlets. You'd have a massive vacuum leak. Also you might want to rethink that statement. Hard cornering and fast driving with dumping to the ground on other cars I've been able to dump an *** load of oil out in hard G turns. Its not good when your tires, wheels and rotors are soaked in oil.

Every car in the WORLD needs a catch can!

Not mine :) little oil in the intake manifold never hurt my feelings!

Joking right?

Nope! Over 10 years running my high power built motor 350z still doesn't have one. My 370z doesn't. Most of the customer Zs I built never got one either. What looks like a lot of oil when pooled up in a can, would have been a minuscule contamination to the hundred of thousands of times as much air that traveled through the engine in that same time.

I had all my charge pipes off 2 weeks ago when I did my solid motor mounts... There was hardly even a film.. So I still have a lot more mileage to go before I'm worried about the intercooler losing efficiency.

Not to say that I don't respect one's desire to run one! I just have a much greater desire for less clutter personally.

I actually own one of the elite ones posted here. I purchased it many years ago for my 350 but it never made its way in.

Your charge pipes should be dry. Why would you hook up the PCV system so far back and not like it is stock?

The manifolds the real story. That **** builds up like tar on it, bottom of fuel injectors, valves, cakes the top of the piston etc. its more internal that's the issue once it lowers octane mixing with the air/fuel. Ever done back to back dyno's on cars with similar setups with one with and one without after a lot of miles? And other cars are a must like subis. I can eject a 1/2 quart of oil out the valve vents in a high G turn which is why its a must they run AOS and not catch cans. The oil gets piped back to the block with them so they don't run out of oil after a few laps.

PS if your FI you'll always get oil in the charge pipes, the turbo seals can't seal 100% just like piston rings. But FI I'd definiantly do it because you now have two sources of oil getting into the manifold.

coolest catch can? here you go!

Ultimate Oil Catch Can 1/2" NPT

They also have a more stealth looking version

http://www.42draftdesigns.com/images...s/cc_ult01.jpg

http://www.42draftdesigns.com/images...s/cc_ult09.jpg

http://www.42draftdesigns.com/images...s/cc_ult13.jpg

http://www.42draftdesigns.com/images...s/cc_ult10.jpg

My PCV vents into the air filter tubes, which is why I would get wetness in the charge pipes if I had excessive crankcase ventilation. But I do not.

This is how it has to be with a turbocharged vehicle in order to maintain vacuum to the crankcase. If it were in the pressured piping, I would have no functional PCV system once I was in boost.

I do not have any concerns with the oil buildup. I have never been a professional subaru tuner to debate how important or not it may be on that car. But in my VQs, I do not share your concerns with oil build up at all!

Having owned a chassis dyno for several years.. I know that any HP differences from having or not having a catch can after thousands of miles will not be measurable between the existing inconsistencies pull to pull, car to car, day to day. You would need to pull data from a very large number of otherwise indentical cars to see if there is a true pattern. Even then, if anything were found, its safe to say that we are probably talking about the worst HP/dollar ratio out there. But I ever lose a race to a 370z with an oil catch can, ill reconsider!

LOL! The valve covers are baffled. IF u got this much oil puking out your valve covers, then u got bigger problems...:rofl2: I plugged the holes on my accordian tubes w/pipe plugs, no vac leax there!

There are 2 parts to the PCV system. We have the check-valved vents that lead to our intake manifold, and we have the open vents that lead into our intake tubes.

I am not entirely sure why the intake manifold fed PCV vents have a check valve since the car is non-boosted from the factory.

During high vacuum at idle and such, the manifold vacuum should be pulling so much through the PCV that the air filter tube side of the system is probably pulling fresh air IN.

With both my 350z and my 370z TT setup, I kept the stock PCV system. Under boost, the PCV check valve should shut, and the only ventilation for the crankcase would be the air filter tubes.

What I only just NOW considered thanks to this thread, is that running a "stock" style PCV system in my 370z TT is causing a problem that I hadnt thought of. The difference is, my 350z was a MAP (speed density) EMS system. My 370z is not. During high vacuum idle, my PCV system should be drawing fresh air through thru my air filter tubes. So I have an un-metered air source entering my engine at idle, since my MAF sensors are just before the throttle bodies.

Huh... thank god for closed loop feedback I suppose.

He was talking about a flat 4. Lots of guys have had that problem since high gs keep the oil trapped in the head, and it comes out the breather.

Only 2k! Wow!

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psecfeb317.jpg

Phunk, the pcv valves on the 370z function the same way all pcv valves on all naturally aspirated emissions controlled engines function. They are flow metering check valves. the reason they rattle and the spring inside them is so weak is because they are set up to work with the amount of vacuum the engine produces, so that at idle the valve is open but only flows a little bit of air, because the high vacuum actually lifts the piston inside the valve off the seat and up to the top of the valve where it partially closes the exit orifice of the valve. This allows the system to vent but does not introduce enough air to effect the idle to great extent. when the throttle is opened pressure rises to the point where the piston falls to about the halfway point of the valve allowing much more fumes to be vented since the engine will be able to burn them effectively. when the motor back fires or boost comes on(if F.I.) the valve shut to prevent reversion of fumes into the intake. this is where the catch can does the most work because during boost the valve is shut but often leaks allowing boost to go through the valve, combine this with blow-by past the rings and your going to building a lot of crankcase pressure that can't go anywhere with the factory setup because it is trapped between the intake pipe and the manifold. this leads to popped out dipsticks and reduced power from having a boosted crankcase pressure(not much honestly though). When switching to an external pcv intake filter now the crankcase pressure under boost can escape by going backwards through the system all over your engine bay, which is where the catch can comes in. some systems i've seen have valves or solenoids that under boost will vent the catch can to atmosphere and under vacuum allow the pcv system to function normally the below method will allow you to vent crankcase pressure, without contaminating the intake, or reverting fumes all up under your hood, and for an estimated parts cost of 5-25 dollars.

And my personal favorite pcv system is the exhaust venturii, no oil stain under the hood, no reversion out the filters from blow by on a boosted car, and i can still imagine myself mystically choking up al gore's air every time i drive. Oh and it's by FAR the cheapest if you can weld or have a buddy who can because it involves two small pieces of tube cut on an angle and roughly 4 ft of hose. (also drilled out factory valves), using seperate pcv filters and plugging the intake pipes and the manifold hoses will allow you to eliminate any source of unmetered air caused by the pcv as well