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Overheating issue with 2013 370z?

Originally Posted by synolimit Even with no stock cooler? This guy did it but with no stock on there. Not sure how much room is there from this pic. I

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Old 06-01-2013, 11:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Even with no stock cooler? This guy did it but with no stock on there. Not sure how much room is there from this pic.

I tried yesterday when installing mine. In theory, I could have gotten the longer filter in there, but it would have given me about 1/4" of clearance between the end of the filter and the front frame rail. I just chose to use the smaller (stock sized) filter. Bottom line, I think you can run the longer filter with both sandwich plates, but it takes a specific routing of the cooler lines.
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Old 06-01-2013, 02:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I've got a 2011, so no oil to water cooler on there. With gtms sandwich plate, you don't have enough room for a longer filter. Maybe other brands of sandwich plate are thinner.
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Old 06-01-2013, 02:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
I've got a 2011, so no oil to water cooler on there. With gtms sandwich plate, you don't have enough room for a longer filter. Maybe other brands of sandwich plate are thinner.
Ahh, yeah that's probably true.
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Old 06-01-2013, 02:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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However the guy in your pic did it, there's not a lot of room. I'd just run a stock sized filter.
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Just keep on driving that the z until you reach 2-3k miles on the odometer you'll notice everything start to get smooth.
My z runs very sluggish at the beginning it fills so tight and the engine seems to have a hard time reving more than 5k but know I have to tame her she is wild.
But the oil cooler 25 row if you only do occasional track is a must.
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Last night I was driving around and it was in the upper 90's and my car was at 220 the whole time. This is not exterme. One thing I do notice is the car likes running with the AC off way better than with it on. Maybe thats the sluggish feeling OP is talking about.
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
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With that little clearance, getting a longer filter on and off would be a pain in the ***. I'd just go oem sized. Even if there's a little clearance with the longer one installed, you've still got to thread it on.
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yeah, I wasn't going to touch that. 220 is not an issue, and the graph in the link he posted is questionable without the source. Bob is the oil guy is full of fluids engineers, and for extremely technical analysis of oil I'll trust them. For mechanical things I'll trust a mechanic.
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Old 06-01-2013, 12:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
Yeah, I wasn't going to touch that. 220 is not an issue, and the graph in the link he posted is questionable without the source. Bob is the oil guy is full of fluids engineers, and for extremely technical analysis of oil I'll trust them. For mechanical things I'll trust a mechanic.
+1 I saw that and was wondering the source or credibility.
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Old 06-01-2013, 12:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Third post by south ark . the coolant temp is part of the problem too . Intake Air Temperature affect on Ignition Timing
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Old 06-01-2013, 01:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Third post by south ark . the coolant temp is part of the problem too . Intake Air Temperature affect on Ignition Timing
Could be. What was the OP running? Every track I've ever raced on demanded just water or water plus water wetter ( or engine ice since I think its like WW). It does cool better than coolant and safer if you crash since water will evaporate unlike coolant will be slick. I'm going to dump half my coolant and put in a guys special race/summer only blend with water wetter. Should keep it cool and not freeze come winter.
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Old 06-01-2013, 12:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
Yeah, I wasn't going to touch that. 220 is not an issue, and the graph in the link he posted is questionable without the source. Bob is the oil guy is full of fluids engineers, and for extremely technical analysis of oil I'll trust them. For mechanical things I'll trust a mechanic.
It's a Steibek Curve. You guys will actually find it on Google.

And the entire issue here has to do with the VVEL and it's extreme lubrication requirements. So unless every high-performance engine old guy has owned in the past was running a similar setup as a VQ37VHR with VVEL, I don't get the point. 220 won't kill your engine, but the oil clearly loses viscosity to where it is below the manufacturers specification.

It's the same reason Nissan markets it's Ester Oil. It is for it's friction properties specifically for lubricating the VVEL.
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Old 06-01-2013, 12:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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What does vvel have to do with anything regarding temperature vs viscosity loss?
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Old 06-01-2013, 02:04 PM   #14 (permalink)
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What does vvel have to do with anything regarding temperature vs viscosity loss?
It's in the second paragraph:

"TORQUE CUT CONTROL (AT HIGH ENGINE OIL TEMPERATURE)
The ECM receives engine oil temperature signals from engine oil temperature sensor.
To avoid VVEL performance degradation, the ECM performs the engine torque cut control at high engine oil temperatures.
If engine oil temperature is too high, engine oil viscosity will change. As a result, engine oil pressure is
decreased. This control affects the VVEL operating angle by operating the VVEL actuator sub assembly.
If this control is operated, engine performance will decrease, then maximum engine speed is reduced a bit (Various levels of Limp Mode depending on temp).
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Old 06-01-2013, 02:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I understand the VQ motors have lubrication needs that a standard pushrod or even standard o/h cam motor may not have, but until we can get a specific centistroke minimum threshold established (Nissan factory oil at operating temps??), who's to say that any high performance oil, in a reasonable weight range, wouldn't work under "normal" conditions? I just switched to M1 0w-40 yesterday from factory fill, mainly because I liked the results I got back from Blackstone when running it in my LS7. Apples to oranges, yes, but I have no hard data to say it shouldn't work fine in the VQ, especially with a 25 row cooler.

BTW, I realize Nissan recommends (at least that's what I've heard) ester oil, but the previous owner of my car showed me that every time he went in for an oil change in the first year, they used a non-ester oil. No warranty voided, so I'm wondering how critical the whole "ester" thing is anyway.

I know, I know, here we go again with another oil thread. I apologize, but it seems we inevitably end up there.
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