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Sudden power loss
I was driving today and when I came out of a round about, my car suddenly lost power. I had full tank of gas, 180 oil temp, and normal coolant temp. It sounded like a vacuum or an intake tubing fell off. I checked my intakes and vacuum and everything was fine. After restarting, the car is fine. What could it be? I do have a Cel from the test pipes I just had installed and the exhaust has no leaks.
Any help would be awesome. |
How full is "full"?
And we're you making a right turn? |
It was 2 dots from full. The round abouts are left hand turns.
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What about your tires? Are you sure you weren't just slipping because you gave too much power? |
My VDC was not on at all. Only thing I did change was few days ago I got a different brand of gas. I was driving in my golf shoes so i couldve been on the brake at the same time....lol. Maybe a trip to the dealership?
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I REALLy doubt gas is your issue, a LOT of people like to blame bad gas on a lot of things... This isn't soviet Russia, or North Korea where the gas likely has twigs in it, LOL As for hitting both pedals at once, I don't know, I've got size 15 shoes and I have no issues hitting both pedals at once (and I doubt your gold shoes are bigger) so... Not sure if that's your cause... Unless you drive your auto with 2 feet :shakes head: LOL |
Lol...no 2 feet. I still try to use my left foot for clutch from my stick days. I did retighten my intake hoses and made it fit a little better. That might have fixed it. Would a solid CEL from the test pipes rob power? I also think that it possibly could be my flex plate.
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If it was your intake hoses, it would have to be something where it was loose enough to pull the hoses off by hand to begin with.... A CEL from test pipes doesn't do anything (or at least it doesn't pull timing). I dyno'd 321WHP at the time I hit the speed limiter with the CEL for cats. Flex plate... Hmmmmmm... You have to drive REALLLLLLLYYYYYY hard to break it, but it IS possible, but it would be a loss of power ALL the time. Best way to describe it is that it takes longer for your revs to climb. If you CAN replicate it with regular shoes, take a video? |
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No...I need one. But i was waiting for the z1 headers and than do a tune.
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The 370 will cut nearly all engine power while the brake is depressed, its not just the friction force of the brakes. If your shoe happened to touch the brake pedal enough for the lights to come on, it will limit your power to maybe 20% or so.
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It did it again. I made sure that my foot was on the gas. I started going up hill and it would not go past 50mph. I down shifted to 3rd and floored it, nothing happened. Maybe thhe crank angle sensor? But it starts up fine. The idle was around 1500...when i pulled in...so maybe the flex plate?
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Once it goes into 4th it feels like its going to slip, but it goes to 4th. But then it starts to do the Limp modish thing where it pulls timing and it has no power.
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You don't need a tune 50MPH UPHILL in 4th, the car won't pull anyways... VI-DE-O!!! VI-DE-O!!! |
Oh, try driving in D up the same hill?
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Yeah i wish i couldve video it. Its terrifiying when you're going uphill in D or even in 4th Flooring it and wont go past 3500. Its a gentle hill and I slow down to 40mph...at the top and I am flooring it. It wont even down shift in D to the proper gear when it happens.
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40 in 4th, no wonder it won't pull. If you're sure it's IN D and it won't downshift by itself and it's dying, it's either the throttle body or maybe fuel pump |
If he won't go over 3500 rpm then it is limp lode.
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4th in an automatic pulls very hard. Maybe in a manual it wont pull as hard.
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And if your coolant isn't too hot and the oil isn't too hot... I don't know what is causing your problem if it TRULY is limp mode... How do you KNOW your CEL is ONLY for the TPs? |
I didnt have a CEL before i got my Test pipes installed. The CEL cam on the day after the install so most likely it will be the test pipes.
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The first thing to do is see what the car thinks is so wrong that it needs to light up the CEL. Get an ODB scanner and check the code(s). New cars can be amazingly good at diagnosing themselves.
With that info and what Baer finds out about what can trip limp mode, you may have your answer. |
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I'd think your CEL is on because the secondary O2 sensor is picking up the lack of a cat, but that won't engage limp mode. Maybe you're having an unrelated problem with your primary O2 sensor caused by bumping it or damaging it on the pipe installation. Could even be hot exhaust gas is leaking and burned the wiring. Check your MAFs in your CAIs to see they're not dirty or damaged or anything.
How's your oil level? You sure it isn't running low or that there isn't a leak somewhere that caused oil levels to drop? |
ok, i had this exact same issue way back when. Actually, i had two separate occaisons:
- 1. Limp mode with all the lights on dash and a CEL (happened several times over course of few days) - 2. Loss of power, wouldn't rev past 1500-2000rpm, turn car off and back on and it was fine. My fixes were: 1. Replaced throttle body. (basically where the TPS is located) 2. Turn off the P006A code in the ecu from occurring. Even though you don't get a CEL, this code may still be occuring and causing limp mode. |
There's a tire pressure sensor in the car's throttle bodies?
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TPS = Throttle Position Sensor TMDA = Too Many Damn Acronyms |
The only thing I have is the CEL, which i've had for a few days since my test pipe install. I am thinking its the throttle body or the crankshaft position sensor.
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Get an OBD scanner and find out what the car thinks is wrong. Right now, everybody is just guessing. Some very good guesses, but guesses none the less. |
I have a '13 with a manual transmission and this happened to me once while accelerating from a red light. Same thing happened; there was no power and the engine wouldn't rev past a certain point. I thought it was overheating but it was right at 180. I drove it in limp mode until I reached my destination and turned it off. 30 mins later everything was fine.
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