It's not it happenes more than you think!!!

P0122 Throttle position sensor
P0123
P0222
P0223
P0227
P0228
P1239
P2132
P2133
P2135

The ECM controls the electric throttle control actuator in regulating the throttle opening in
order for the idle position to be within +10 degrees.
The ECM regulates the opening speed of the throttle valve to be slower than the normal
condition.
Therefore, the acceleration will be poor.

the things I'm posting are what causes limp mode.

(relating to you)

P0102 Mass air flow sensor circuit
P0103
P010C
P010D

Engine speed will not rise more than 2,400 rpm due to the fuel cut.

P0607 ECM

VVEL actuator motor relay is turned off, and VVEL value is become at a minimum angle.
Engine speed will not rise more than 3,500 rpm due to the fuel cut.

This has happened to alot of people here

P1805 Brake switch

ECM controls the electric throttle control actuator by regulating the throttle opening to a
small range.
Therefore, acceleration will be poor.

Vehicle condition----------------------Driving condition
When engine is idling-----------------Normal
When accelerating---------------------Poor acceleration

The highest rpm that i can go to is 3500. My idle is just below or right at 1500. Warranty should cover this right? I am still under warranty...the problem is getting my car there.

JEEZUS, your idle is high
You can have them tow it on their dime

I will start the car tomorrow and see if it is ok. If not, I will have it towed.

Update: made it to the dealership in one piece. I notice when I was backing up that the reverse gear was slipping to go in...this cant be good.

Slipping to go IN makes me feel like it's the valve body
Transmissions aren't made the way they used to be

Definately. Its always been rough shifting to 4th even when new. Especially when the summer temps and the fluid temperatures would rise. Maybe I should get an additonal transmission cooler on top of the one in the radiator.

Update: so I got my car back, and the receipt from the work order basically said that i needed to get a tune. So far no CEL light and it's running fine. Uprev tune is in order!

I'll take that as I was right:tiphat:

Glad your problem is small and can be fixed.

yes thank you Baer! do you think If I got a CEL fix that a tune can be avoided?

Yeah in The Uprev software there are a list of DTC that can be turned off so the light doesn't come back on.

So what was it that they changed?

If it just said that you needed a tune and they didn't actually tune it, then most likely all they did was clear the error code. If that's what they did, there is a good chance that the CEL will return.

The tech said that my cel came from the test pipe. I am wondering if a mechanical cel fix would work to prevent this even without a tune. Any thoughts?

yes, call them on the phone and ask for the code you were getting.

You're dealing with a high-strung engine that doesn't take well to mods. Just about any mod that will give a decent increase in power will confuse the ECM and trip a CEL.

Baer383 is right - if you are going to mod, you need tuning software to support your efforts. The ECM will only self-adjust so far before it thinks something is wrong. With tuning software, you can change ECM setpoints and coefficients to values that match your mods. It will also be a tremendous help when it comes to troubleshooting.
Most of the tuning software packages offer the ability to turn off some functions that trigger a CEL.

Thank you all for your help. I"ve scheduled an Uprev tuning session at Z1 Motorsports this Saturday. Can't wait for the results!

Maybe I'll swing by on Saturday I need to see Jon anyway.

I would like to meet you Baer! That would be sweet. I will be there around 3. Jon said that he's tuning a TTG37 that day before me.

The G will take a while to do,maybe I'll see you there.

Here are the codes that put me in limp mode: p0420 and p0430. I cant wait for my tune!

O2 sensors? Wouldn't think that would put the car into limp mode. But yeah, that tune can eliminate those inputs.

I didnt thik so either. But its both the primary and the secondary o2...so maybe thats what triggered it.

No, I don't think so.

question....this happened after putting on test pipes yes? What kind of gasket sits between your test pipes and headers? O-ring gasket, or regular flat gasket?

I have the Z1 metal gaskets. I used to have cnt hfc and they were leaking between the headers and cats. That leak also caused more leaks down the whole exhaust. But I got them all fixed. But yes, I did get the codes after install...which I thought that it might happen.

I have what sounds like the exact same power loss on a 2013 370z Touring AT. The problem only turns up during temperature extremes... either very cold <15F or very hot >95F. The issue is always resolved by shutting off the car and starting it back up. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 restarts for the problem to go away. Symptoms include 1-2 second throttle delay as well as dramatic loss of horsepower. The most significant HP dropoff is in 3rd gear. When in full automatic mode (i.e. Drive), the car refuses to downshift on its own. I can floor the pedal and only sometimes will it aggressively downshift with extremely high revs... but the car hardly accelerates. No error codes are thrown at all... so the issue is impossible to reproduce or be fixed by the dealer. As it stands, I need to wait for the problem to re-occur again and then take it directly to the dealer without shutting it off. The problem does not resolve itself without shutting off the vehicle and restarting. Very dangerous problem because if it happens suddenly in the fast lane, it can be very difficult to get out of the way of the car behind you!

Baer, can you please elaborate on the Uprev problem you experienced? What was the explanation and fix?

I had an issue very similar to this and it turned out that it was the wire harness that connected to my driver's side throttle body was loose and had a bad connection. When I finally got the code to come up it was an easy fix. The hard part was the diagnosis. Good luck. Hope it's something simple

Update... I'm still having this damn problem. My car sounds like it's going to bog down and clunk out but has only shut off once like that. Other times the traction control light comes on and goes into limp mode. Of course this never happens when it's at r/t tuning which is who tuned me and they said unless it replicates while it's with them it's impossible for them to figure it out. I know it has something to do with the throttle bodies or tps but I can't have Nissan do a relearn because of my custom tune and when r/t tuning had me do a manual relearn it just seemed to make it worse. I'm getting really tired of this issue. Also now my wide band is staying at either 10 or 20 so I'm guessing my idle air control valve in conjunction with the tps or maf sensor location is the culprit but I'm stuck because r/t tuning is 4 hours away from me and they said only Nissan can do the relearn so I guess I would have to drive it up there have r/t remove the tune then tow it to the closest Nissan dealership up there so they can do the relearn procedure then tow it back to r/t for another tune.... Ahhhhhhhhh