nope the vlsd is built into the ring gear carrier, the automatics have a different sized ring gear so you can't put any of the larger gears on the automatic vlsd carrier. if you by an open manual diff you are stuck with open unless you get an aftermarket lsd or buy a manual vlsd gear carrier and swap it. it should be noted that when you change te carrier you also need to buy bearings and shims and have a shop shim the diff.

Don't FE4R teh GE4R! Good tires and suspension r K3y! :icon17: Shi'1+e...I ordered my 4 T3rdy's over a year ago...:icon14:
0! I see 7AT, I don't recommend theez for it...prob 3.90z for 7AT....
LuLz, g00d luck to any1 will'n 2 Mport a JDM rear end to teh USA....prob b cheeeper to build ur MT rear end w/4.36s and clutch LSD, then 2 pay for dat used JDM shi'1te! Just say'N....Mport, u still get an open diff?!....F4IL!

I went with a Quaife diff and 4.08 gear on my 7AT....amaze balls!

Please tell me you're kidding around with this, otherwise I vote it for most unreadable post of the year.

No, he always types like that. I don't even know what that post says. It's a really strange dichotomy- usually good tech info delivered in a style reminiscent of a 12 year old special needs kid on XBox Live.

Thinking about going this route. Just to make sure I'm reading the posts correctly. I have a base 2011 7AT with open diff. The Quaife lsd and 4.08 will drop into the pumpkin and require only shims?

Note that most of what makes this situation suck is that the 7AT's stock ring gear is 10mm thicker than the normal ones (as found in the 6MT), and the part of the VLSD carrier that it rides on is thus 10mm thinner to compensate and keep everything centered or whatever. If you were to buy an aftermarket LSD meant for a 6MT to go with your 4.08's, you could drop the 4.08's + 6MT LSD into your 7AT+Sport housing (modulo unequal shaft-length issues from LSD-vs-not). I posted some related findings around here: http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...ml#post2745993

You will also need the bearings and seals and crushwasher and all the other little pieces for installing the gears.

I wish we could just sticky "Rear-ends are precision gear assemblies and NOTHING inside them is drop in. You will need bearings, seals, lots of shims, crush washers and other stuff, as well as significant labor time at a shop that specializes in this work. You CAN do it yourself but you will probably screw it up and turn everything you just bought into expensive paperweights"

^ Very true. My only experience with rear ends was on an IH Scout a friend was working on several years ago. We decided to buy new gears and put them in ourselves. Keep in mind this is a big, ancient SUV/Truck type thing where everything is easy to work on.

The first full day with 3 guys on the project (none of us had done this kind of thing before, but we're all very experienced at any normal DIY mechanic stuff short of engine/diff/trans rebuilds, and we had a 2-post lift to work on) was a complete mess just learning what was going on during re-assembly, and realizing we didn't have enough of the correct shims, and that we had already crushed the crush bushing/washer thing for the pinion down flatter than it should be, etc, and that the one cheap dial gauge we had wasn't nearly enough in terms of taking repeatable measurements of the right kinds.

After ordering more bits and tools, we went back at it again for a full weekend (well, minus time spent drinking between) trying to get the thing reinstalled correctly. It was a long repetitive process of putting it in, seeing a problem with measurements and/or the grease pattern on the gears, pulling it back out and adjusting some shims, trying again and get wildly different results than we expected from the shim adjustments, etc.

Eventually we did make it work, but 3 guys x 3 days was totally not worth it vs just taking it down to a gear shop that does this stuff every day and paying them to do it right. Shortly after that I had to do a similar job on my '99 Trans Am. Dropped it off at a shop that specializes in diff/trans work and they had it back to me the next day working perfect for something like $500.

I'm all for encouraging people to take on DIY projects and do things themselves, because it's usually worth the learning process, but... if you're ready to tackle a diff install, you'd know it, and if you don't know it, don't bother :)

Save time and money... Just swap your rear diff for a manual vlsd pumpkin and buy the Z1 diff swap kit that gives you the Nismo finned cover, motul oil & Whiteline bushings. Just swapped and the 3.69 gears with VLSD feels great on my 7AT!

this^ it literally takes me 3 hours on jackstands including the rear bushing removal

I might have witnessed this.

LOL at "might have" on a side note I was upset that you got your rear rotors changed before I got your diff instaled, but I account that to showing you the wrench trick so I still win :p

Lol, I definitely sat on my áss more than you did though.


But I know I'll always lose a race to you, lol
On another note, I almost died today because my tires weren't hot enough to come out of that slide at work, LOOOOL
But god damn do I like that diff

I have a 7AT into which I just swapped in the quaife diff in place of the factory VLSD. does anyone know if I can fit the 4.08 gears on it?

All of that stuff comes with the gear (or at least it did when I purchased from Z1). The only thing I needed was shims but you wont really know which ones you need (theres like 12 different ones) until the installer measures with a dialer for lashback. Let the shop deal with that headache lol

Did you see my post a few back? lol I did the same thing already.

IMPORTANT NOTE FOR 7AT GEAR SWAP WITH QUAIFE DIFFS

YOU NEED TO GET THE QUAIFE DIFF FOR A MANUAL TRANSMISSION OR YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO INSTALL THE 4.08 GEAR.

THE QUAIFE DIFF FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION WILL NOT WORK WITH 4.08s

Thanks for the advice. Def not doing it myself and didn't want to buy a sport manual pumpkin if it isn't necessary. Sounds like you're saying that if I have the correct install kit (bearings, seals, washers, shims, etc.), the manual quaife lsd and 4.08 would fit the open diff on a base 7AT. Is that right?

you will want to get a quaife for a manual , base car and whatever gear set you choose (except 3.333) and then you can use your 7at non-sport case and stub shafts with a lot of shimming at that point i would take it to a shop and let them buy everything else you will need

Review:

The Quaife diff + 4.08 gears with whiteline bushings and redline gear oil = awesome :)

I've got a 38301-EH53D for sale.

I have a 09 370Z auto with VLSD. I want to have 4.08 final with an aftermarket LSD.

Do I need to purchase a manual non-VLSD pumpkin from a base model or a manual VLSD pumpkin from sport package to make this work?

Both will work, I'd get the Sport just to be safe. If you get non sport you'll need to order the aftermarket LSD with stub axles I believe. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please.

your fuel milage is terrible! i get 25+ with my 370/7at & drive aggressive at times.

i may be reviving dead thread, but some of the terms used in these kind of threads are unclear to me. when people talk about swapping pumpkins(differentials?)are they simply referring to carrier assembly, or are there other parts necessary? can i simply swap my base auto carrier with the mt vlsd carrier and then install the gears

on the a/t model's...not many gear ratio's to choose from,,,the "pumpkin"is the center section...unbolt c/v axles,drive shaft,2 speed sensor's,2 mounting bolts & 1 nut from stud through crossmember.
drop it down & you can buy a second one & have it built.
pumpkin's from manual trans. Z's offer gear ratio's from 3.54....up to 4.36:1.
you may have to swap one of the stub shaft's for it to bolt in.
Newer Z's...15' & up...came with a 3.69:1 in some A/T models & 3.92:1 in manual Nismo models.
I swapped the open carrier in my 11' A/T & added a Quaife ATB helical locker....but no lower gears were available at that time...haven't checked in a while.

Mine sitting on jack, about to go back in. "Pumpkin"https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...458164fb1e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

seems good for me because my car have drone at cruising RPM

sorry to kinda resurrect this thread, but do i need to buy a manual pumpkin/carrier, or can i just get the diff itself and swap that into my sport auto? because im trying to do the 4.08 FD but im a little confused as to what i need exactly.

I recently acquired a 13' Nismo diff with 3.69 gearing & factory vlsd; it's a direct bolt.
The stub shafts came with it & everything went right together.
No launching in 1st gear/unless rubber is heated at the dragstrip; cause once they break loose in 1st,2nd is immediately on the redline & then you're shifting to 3rd (still drifting) & then it will finally catch traction & bark the tire's going into 4th!
Couldn't imagine going lower than those,,,as mine came with the factory 3.357 gear's-but i did add a Quaife helical locker for better traction.
Phone Z1 Motorsport's & they can guide you on what you would need to perform this swap.
my rpm's at 75mph went from 2550 to 2800 cruising...fuel milage 25mpg+ on last 400mi. road trip cruising 65-75 (pending speed limit)
Good-Luck!