anyone here check there OWN TRANNY OIL?

nabenson · 09-12-2012, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B&W_Evader

Must have a big reservoir or it's not going to last much more than 100-150k. There must be a way to empty and fill it though. I think it might be time to crawl under the car and start looking.

The manual transmission takes about 3.5 quarts. You are supposed to change it about every 30k miles, or sooner if you track the car. I change mine at about 20k.

ANMVQ · 09-12-2012, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 11Thumper

1,800 miles don't even think about it anymore. I have the extended warranty so I factored a tranny flush into the price of the warranty.

So what I mean is...

I will drive the car to ~100k miles. If I didn't get the warranty I would have the fluid swapped at 50k miles. The cost (when I called the dealer) was about $250. Since I got the warranty up to 100k miles I won't have it flushed and 'saved' $250 off the price of the warranty (mentally of course

). The manual states that the fluid is lifetime so to remain under warranty I don't have to do anything.

To each his/her own. That's just what I'm doing, not a recommendation.

You sure about that. if the manual calls for it to be services, Flushed and filled at 50k, and something goes wrong at 65k and you never changed it I'm sure the dealer will not honor the warranty.. Just asking . I have not even thought about mine @15k now. have not looked at the manual yet for it. sorry if a dumb question

Trips · 09-12-2012, 07:46 PM

Hey Guys, Op's talking about the 7AT NOT the Manual 6sp or dif

Lets try to keep it on topic

Thanks

11Thumper · 09-13-2012, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ANMVQ

You sure about that. if the manual calls for it to be services, Flushed and filled at 50k, and something goes wrong at 65k and you never changed it I'm sure the dealer will not honor the warranty.. Just asking . I have not even thought about mine @15k now. have not looked at the manual yet for it. sorry if a dumb question

We're talking about the 7AT dude, so yeah...I'm sure.

Z11 · 09-13-2012, 02:20 PM

man.. im getting different answers everywhere, and i certainly dont trust the damn dealership.. but everyone is roughly saying to change it at "EVERY?" or once, 15K, 30K, 50K?? and im getting the same answers for the rear dif oil change, why couldnt the stupid dealership set a standard guideline to when to change it and leave it at that.. the stupid mechanic told me to come back in 6 months, salesperson says 2 months, nissan sends a letter in the 3rd month... like WTF.. ill stick to 6 months, for the maintenance im talking about.

seems like no one here services there cars at the dealership.. even if they bought the car used i would think they would still service it at the dealership since warranty is 5 years, and the car came out in 09

B&W_Evader · 09-13-2012, 03:12 PM

The way I read it...

7AT - 50k miles
6MT - 30k unless you track, then 15k
Diff - 30k unless you track, then 15k

Z11 · 09-18-2012, 10:58 AM

cool

CrunchyCajun · 09-18-2012, 03:25 PM

Mine is getting changed right now. Not just the AT fluid, the entire AT. Failed @51k of mostly highway miles. Wonder how fragile the transmission is, it is a $9k plus unit, thankfully warranty is covering mine.

11Thumper · 09-19-2012, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrunchyCajun

Mine is getting changed right now. Not just the AT fluid, the entire AT. Failed @51k of mostly highway miles. Wonder how fragile the transmission is, it is a $9k plus unit, thankfully warranty is covering mine.

What happened? You track the car ever?

CrunchyCajun · 09-19-2012, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 11Thumper

What happened? You track the car ever?

No track, mostly highway, something just gave up inside. Dealer does not know, Nissan had them replace fluid and then check it several times over 2 days to see if the noise went away, which it didn't. They told them to replace the unit.

CrunchyCajun · 09-20-2012, 05:42 PM

Picked it up yesterday, put 100 miles on it today, running great now. Paperwork said torque converter locked up, seems like something that can be fixed, but technician told me Nissan won't let them open up these transmissions anymore.

11Thumper · 09-21-2012, 01:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrunchyCajun

Picked it up yesterday, put 100 miles on it today, running great now. Paperwork said torque converter locked up, seems like something that can be fixed, but technician told me Nissan won't let them open up these transmissions anymore.

Glad you got it fixed. Yep, that seems to be Nissan's policy. My buddy's Cube had a slipping transmission and they just replaced it, no other option. Probably best that way.

370fan · 09-21-2012, 09:02 AM

The 7AT transmission gets the fluid added through a plug that is on the pan. The fluid has to be pumped into the transmission. This of course requires a special tool. Once you have that tool, you can pump fluid into the trans and then let the car run until it's up to temperature. Once warm, you open the fill plug back up and let the fluid drain out until it slows to a steady drip. Then it's full. It has a tube inside the pan that sets the level. No need to check it unless you have a leak. No need to service it as it's designed to go over 150K without being changed.

B&W_Evader · 09-21-2012, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrunchyCajun

Picked it up yesterday, put 100 miles on it today, running great now. Paperwork said torque converter locked up, seems like something that can be fixed, but technician told me Nissan won't let them open up these transmissions anymore.

Yeah... Japaneese know the average American tech is incompetent. They would just screw it up more.

bonfire · 11-29-2012, 04:05 PM

Just had my 7AT flushed today. Cost me $220 for a full flush, not just a drain and fill. All the talk about this not needing to be done till 100k miles, I almost just passed on it. I am glad I went ahead with it though. The car has 37k miles and the fluid was pretty dirty. No track use, just some spirited canyon runs on occasion. For me, it was worth the piece of mind. Now I know it is clean and it shifts a little smoother when moving between low gears.

...also, I was told that it is normal for the trans oil in 370 Z's to turn real dark after a few thousand miles. Not sure if that's true or not? But, mine is bright cherry red for now.

09-12-2012, 07:46 PM	#18 (permalink)
Trips Administrator Join Date: May 2009 Location: Disneyland, Ca Posts: 8,728 Drives: 🔰 Rep Power: 10	Hey Guys, Op's talking about the 7AT NOT the Manual 6sp or dif Lets try to keep it on topic Thanks __________________

09-13-2012, 03:12 PM	#21 (permalink)
B&W_Evader Track Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: CA Posts: 972 Drives: slower than before Rep Power: 386	The way I read it... 7AT - 50k miles 6MT - 30k unless you track, then 15k Diff - 30k unless you track, then 15k __________________ \|RIP\|6spd-sport\|OSG-LSD\|XP8\|RBF600\|Eibach Sways\|RE-71R\|FI-34Row\|Gen3-CAI\|Yaw P.S.\|

11-29-2012, 04:05 PM	#30 (permalink)
bonfire Base Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 37 Drives: '10 MB 7AT Sport Rep Power: 13	Just had my 7AT flushed today. Cost me $220 for a full flush, not just a drain and fill. All the talk about this not needing to be done till 100k miles, I almost just passed on it. I am glad I went ahead with it though. The car has 37k miles and the fluid was pretty dirty. No track use, just some spirited canyon runs on occasion. For me, it was worth the piece of mind. Now I know it is clean and it shifts a little smoother when moving between low gears. ...also, I was told that it is normal for the trans oil in 370 Z's to turn real dark after a few thousand miles. Not sure if that's true or not? But, mine is bright cherry red for now. __________________ \| 2010 MB 7AT Touring, Sport \| Stillen Gen III CAI \| H&R DRS 15/20 \| SunTek CXP 20% \| Hankook V12 evo \| F.I. 18" CBE \| Last edited by bonfire; 11-29-2012 at 07:18 PM.

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09-13-2012, 02:20 PM	#20 (permalink)
Z11 Banned Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: NYC Posts: 272 Drives: z Rep Power: 0	man.. im getting different answers everywhere, and i certainly dont trust the damn dealership.. but everyone is roughly saying to change it at "EVERY?" or once, 15K, 30K, 50K?? and im getting the same answers for the rear dif oil change, why couldnt the stupid dealership set a standard guideline to when to change it and leave it at that.. the stupid mechanic told me to come back in 6 months, salesperson says 2 months, nissan sends a letter in the 3rd month... like WTF.. ill stick to 6 months, for the maintenance im talking about. seems like no one here services there cars at the dealership.. even if they bought the car used i would think they would still service it at the dealership since warranty is 5 years, and the car came out in 09

09-18-2012, 10:58 AM	#22 (permalink)
Z11 Banned Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: NYC Posts: 272 Drives: z Rep Power: 0	cool

09-18-2012, 03:25 PM	#23 (permalink)
CrunchyCajun Base Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: MD Posts: 73 Drives: 09 tour/sprt wht 7A Rep Power: 400	Mine is getting changed right now. Not just the AT fluid, the entire AT. Failed @51k of mostly highway miles. Wonder how fragile the transmission is, it is a $9k plus unit, thankfully warranty is covering mine.

09-20-2012, 05:42 PM	#26 (permalink)
CrunchyCajun Base Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: MD Posts: 73 Drives: 09 tour/sprt wht 7A Rep Power: 400	Picked it up yesterday, put 100 miles on it today, running great now. Paperwork said torque converter locked up, seems like something that can be fixed, but technician told me Nissan won't let them open up these transmissions anymore.

09-21-2012, 09:02 AM	#28 (permalink)
370fan Base Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: J.P., LA Posts: 47 Drives: 2009 Nismo 370Z Rep Power: 14	The 7AT transmission gets the fluid added through a plug that is on the pan. The fluid has to be pumped into the transmission. This of course requires a special tool. Once you have that tool, you can pump fluid into the trans and then let the car run until it's up to temperature. Once warm, you open the fill plug back up and let the fluid drain out until it slows to a steady drip. Then it's full. It has a tube inside the pan that sets the level. No need to check it unless you have a leak. No need to service it as it's designed to go over 150K without being changed.