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A lot of the available information that has been presented comes directly from race teams, not common enthusiasts. Gotta have results to avoid speculation, and there just aren't that many out there. So you have to take a few people at their word based on their experience :twocents: |
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If in doubt, simply ask the other person for further evidence.
Do not assume “no known failure” to equal “no failure” or “won’t fail”. |
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What it comes down to is this with stock crank and 8K redline with a N/A motor.
DD, canyon play toy. Where you might see 8K maybe once a week. It will live. Doing track days a couple times a year. It will live. But the number of track days you do increases. The life shortens. Track toy. You are on borrowed time. FI is a different story. |
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Kels used a stock 370z crank and revved to 9k. It took the abuse, but he also reported having micro cracks from constant revving past 8k
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So simple (a.k.a. - expensive) answer is a built bottom end with billet crank, built non-VVEL heads, BE billet oil pump and ring that sucker out to 9k! The heck with the junior 8k rpm. :driving:
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Contact SuckerPunch directly.
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It's so funny how people answer questions so aggressively when they don't have any actual experience with it.
I'm proud to say that I've finally done a ton of testing with street driven Z's and raised redlines. 7800-7900 on a completely stock motor that's beat on everyday and it hasn't had a single failure. I also worked on 1slowZ's car and we revved that thing to 8700 every single day and for 60+ dyno runs (the rev limiter wasn't working as intended as I had it set to 8300 but it was revving higher. That car has JUN cams, stock VVEL and again, no valve float, no cracked crank, and no issues at all. Cars with upgraded oil pump gears will do 8200 all day just fine, but keep in mind this is strictly for daily driven Zs and not a track car that sees all of it's mileage at WOT and redline. |
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This is bigger deal when boosted because of torque numbers and things start to get out of balance quickly with boost. That said with the right parts and a good rune 8k is doable.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk |
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It does have a dry sump and an ati damper which do go a long way to keeping the crank alive. |
It's a hit or miss and this is a topic you don't want any misses.
Raising a the redline and tuning for it will move your power band and leave your low/mid range a bit bland. Then ask yourself where in that rev-range will you see yourself and you can come up with a better answer. Tons of things at play here. A balanced crank/rods with an ATI and great oil pump clearances should last quite a bit but it's all determined on driver/abuse/tune. Whoever plans on this should have coolers, damper, tune and should open their filters. Rev should be determined on Rod/stroke ratio + mods + tune. Even then it's not a guarantee. It appears the VHR has a 1.72 ratio (if math is right) For better comparision: Honda K24s have a 1.54 ratio and with a type S pump they are usually revved to 8k While it's younger brother the K20 has a 1.62 ratio and these are take to 9k every day. The odd child would be the F20c with a ratio of 1.81 and these are production engines with a standard 9k rev limit. I understand that how some may feel about Hondas however these high revvers can provide great info at that ratio as long as everything else holds 8k should be feasible. |
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