Raising The Redline On The Z
 

Hey guys I was just wondering how many people that got thier Uprev tune raised the redline to about 8000rpm. Is it safe for the valvetrain to rev this car that high? 7500 is promising but 8000 would be great especially with G3 Intakes! Thanks for the input guys! -Johncy

According to my tuner,the power dropped sharply after 7200rpm,don't make a point to rise the redline.

Dont do it.

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Didn't someone on here just grenade their motor after banging off 8K a few times?

Yep.

Thanks for the input guys!

Perhaps advancing the timing instead is a better option??

You can raise the redline to 8k doesn't mean you should rev to 8k!

I have my redline at 8k

I have my stock rev limiter set at 7k

I have my secondary limiter set at 7300

I'm shifting at 7500

I have the injen long tubes, AAM complete 3" single! Car sings all the way...

Please check your info before confirming something like that.

The real issue wasnt just the 8k rpms. It was clearly also an oil starve issue. It happened during a time attack...:tiphat:

You would be fine to raise to 8k. just as said before just because you're bumped to 8k doesnt mean you have to shift there.
:tup:

Had mine at 8k, just be sure if you do adjust it, your not hanging there for any extended period of time. It's only worth it if your running the 1/4 and running out of gear or taking it to the track where there may be a few instances that you'd need the extra rpm.

Why even risk it? Rob at Z Car Garage wouldn't even do this.

n point on running more rpms that have a dramatic hp drop up there...

If you can hold the power (no loss or gain), then it will alter when you upshift where you are in the power range. This could help in racing, but most who have raised it showed loss of power as you get above ~7500.

Remember that gears multiply torque, and lower gears multiply torque more than higher gears, so even if the power drops off you're very likely accelerating faster at 8000 RPM in the lower gear than if you had to shift up sooner.

Will it hold together? That I can't tell you. But it would have to be an exceptionally steep drop in power to not be worth it if it would.

I would not do it.

So it's been 6 years since the last post here...

Any more thoughts on increasing redline? I am looking to get billet oil pump gears installed along with the lightest flywheel I can find. Not necessarily looking to bounce 8K+ RPMS regularly; maybe just some shifting above 7500 RPMs on the track occasionally.

From basic research, it appears that after the oil pump gears, the VVEL valve train is the limiting factor for RPMs. Anyone have additional info or thoughts on the matter?

Currently I have my limiter at 7700rpm as per Seb, I hit it a few times in track, as I reach the braking point, didn't face any issues until now, I think I read vvel is limiting the revs to 8k.

But the issue, vvel generates a lot of heat, so better to stay less.

:tiphat: With all the engine bay heat, a vented hood and new intakes will definitely be a good idea (I'm running the R2C intakes currently and IATs are pretty high).

Yeah you will need them, I have both, I don't feel the power drop, but the car still overheat after two hot laps, even with vents, they help mostly in cooling lap, when I reach pit, the car is already cooled down.

mines been set to 7900/8000 since 2013 and zero issues.

i dont go and bang it off of 7900 but it's set there just because stock limiter robs some top end HP which on the VQ is all we have lol

Mine will be set to 8k dropping in boundary engineering gears When the cam gets out in..

Wish I could find the SuckerPunch gear and housing on its own. Have several inquires out there to various retailers. MAM appears to have it in stock but only when you also purchase the JWT camshaft kit, which I am not interested in.

thats why i went with boundary gears.. sucker punch takes to long to get a hold of if you can reach them..i bought a new pump and Seb will put the gears in next week

https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine...s-p-11938.html

No one has solved valve float issues once you get to 8k and beyond.

FWIW, Concept Z responded to me that they just sold out but are having more SuckerPunch oil pump gears and housings made. They're telling me it should "be around a week."

I'm not asking this to piss in anyone cereal, but to have the information and understanding: Has anyone actually confirmed valve float above 8000RPMs or are we just still speculating? Speculation is fine, and safe, but I just spent the better half of an hour searching these forums and could not find a confirmed case of valve float (and to be fair, I could have missed it), but the best I found was everyone discussing it may be an issue, but no one every reving that high long enough to confirm it is an issue.

Again, not trying to start anything, I am just curious if we are still in theories stage about things or if we have some documented evidence.

does seb charge 125 an hour for labor?
and also how much is he charging to do this labor for you?
i'm bringing my car to seb for other reasons for him to work on starting the first week of july! so excited!

yes that's there shop rate.. Dropping the car off tomorrow for install...

Yup yup. Not posted on these forum, couples shop have proven this. I been in private talks about this issue. Daelen care to chime in

Good information. Would be nice to know the situations, data, and the like. Our stock intake springs are stout little guys (~199lb @ 12.8mm). Compared to the exhaust side which is almost half that rate (~120lb @ 10.2mm), its surprising the exhaust side isn't floating first. Even the springs with the JWT cam kit is ~136lb @ 12.5mm lift.

A company is Canada is working on a solution to sustain high revs without running into valve floats issues. Unlike some companies we won’t be calling out, they aren’t going to put out anything until significant R&D has been done to back there claims. If it doesn’t work or they don’t go through with you probably never hear about it, if it does work I’m sure it will be blasted all across this forum. Keep in mind this is a small company so it may be a while, but 2019 should be a interesting year.

My concerns is with the rod bolts ... JWT will tell you that this is the weak point in a race motor above ~7800rpm

If I was running to 8000rpm on a track I'd life the rod-bolts to 40 hours.

Going with a CARR rod bolt (or equivalent) should solve that issue.

Then you have to worry about the crank and oil pump. The motors JWT prepared were dry sumped due to this issue and had Bryant cranks. It's not just the valve float you have to worry about.

You still going back to the price-is-right estimations we had? Is there a single recorded case of a crank in our engine braking due to over-reving? The two wet-pump/OEM style options (that I am aware of) both claim to be good up to around 8500rpms. The NISMO option (not included in the previously mentioned two) is crap. Going dry sump and custom crank seems like a lot without recorded failures to justify it. I understand precautions but innovation often trumps throwing money at something. If the stock crank can handle 8500, and you have a pump to handle 8500, and if their is a valve-train issue and it is addressed to handle 8500, why throw $8-$10k more at the engine when it can be better spent on the consumables you will need to purchase when racing? Rod bolts and better mains would be a good investment as the strain will be there, and it's cheap insurance in my opinion.

Suckerpunch alone claims their pump set-up is race proven up to 8600.

No one is going to post on here everything they know. Take that for what it is worth. Many secrets out there.

Doren Racing was changing the OEM crank after every race because of breakage. It took them 2 years for them to have the rules changed to run a billet crank. Broken cranks have cost them some race wins. The OEM crank is not good for over 8K for racing.

Good memory - I remember Doran was having problems. But even after the rules were changed I thought they were still running into issues at times. Couldn't remember all the details :tiphat:

I'm not looking for trade secrets but generalized information without ambiguity or apparent speculation is more helpful to the community I would imagine. Helping a common guy plan a build is often vastly different then a race team trying to get their car ready for a season. The whole point of this forum, I thought, was for the common enthusiasts to share information and grow. I know more vetted members can get frustrated with what may seem like ridiculous new blood questions but it's sharing information like what was learned from race teams and from our own experience that can help everyone grow; at least that's my thoughts and experience from being apart of these types of forums over the years.

I had my 370Z at 7900 rpm and had no issues beating on it for over a year. I needed the extra rpm as it really helps in 1/4 mile time, but other than that there's no reason to go higher on a car that's just a daily.