Nissan 370Z Forum

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Engine & Drivetrain (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/)
-   -   Review: RJM AFP Clutch Pedal System (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/56031-review-rjm-afp-clutch-pedal-system.html)

diddy535 03-26-2013 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baer383 (Post 2235027)
Installed mine today very easy but easier if you remove the plastic knee bolster and bolt on metal plate under it for easier access.

Definitely allot better than before and I'm on a stock clutch,shifting is easier smoother,plus taking off from a stop is smoother.

It reminds me of a cable operated clutch.

Love it thanks Ryan :tiphat:

Sweet! How's the shift from 1st to 2nd?

Baer383 03-26-2013 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diddy535 (Post 2235083)
Sweet! How's the shift from 1st to 2nd?

Smooth and fast :tup:

jooonnn 03-18-2014 05:20 PM

For a lack of better words, does this pedal make the clutch feel more "honda" or "s2000" like? (eg: lower engagement, smoother push)

Ryan @ RJM 03-18-2014 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jooonnn (Post 2742415)
For a lack of better words, does this pedal make the clutch feel more "honda" or "s2000" like? (eg: lower engagement, smoother push)

Jooonnn replied to your email as well :)

Yes lower engagment and yes smoother clutch action. The new pedal will both soften the pedal, widen out the engagement zone for better modulation and will let you freely lower the friction point right down to the floor if you wish. The effect is very pronounced and the adjustability lets you dial it in to suit your driving style. All in all it’ll make the clutch in your Nismo feel much less harsh and be much easier to modulate smoothly.

Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

onzedge 03-18-2014 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan @ RJM (Post 2742594)
Jooonnn replied to your email as well :)

Yes lower engagment and yes smoother clutch action. The new pedal will both soften the pedal, widen out the engagement zone for better modulation and will let you freely lower the friction point right down to the floor if you wish. The effect is very pronounced and the adjustability lets you dial it in to suit your driving style. All in all it’ll make the clutch in your Nismo feel much less harsh and be much easier to modulate smoothly.

Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

I am looking forward to installing mine. I think the week after next...

jwick 03-18-2014 09:05 PM

Anybody had any issues getting the clutch cancel and brake switches to sync after install of this pedal? I just got my G back from like the 6th visit to the dealer and finally after replacing both clutch and brake cancel, and several efforts of the tech trying to sync them all with Consult, everything is finally good.

I'm real apprehensive to buy one of these pedals if you have to switch the clutch switches over to the new pedal.

N0SL3N 03-18-2014 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick (Post 2742738)
Anybody had any issues getting the clutch cancel and brake switches to sync after install of this pedal? I just got my G back from like the 6th visit to the dealer and finally after replacing both clutch and brake cancel, and several efforts of the tech trying to sync them all with Consult, everything is finally good.

I'm real apprehensive to buy one of these pedals if you have to switch the clutch switches over to the new pedal.

No Problems here, I think it is more important that you get the switches in the exact right place for the bumpers to hit so that you don't break them during spirited shifting

Ryan @ RJM 03-18-2014 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick (Post 2742738)
Anybody had any issues getting the clutch cancel and brake switches to sync after install of this pedal? I just got my G back from like the 6th visit to the dealer and finally after replacing both clutch and brake cancel, and several efforts of the tech trying to sync them all with Consult, everything is finally good.

I'm real apprehensive to buy one of these pedals if you have to switch the clutch switches over to the new pedal.

Not sure what strange electrical issue you've had with you're G but there is no reprogramming or syncing of the switches involved in the the pedal install in any way. These switches are simply momentary contact buttons that are only active while being pushed in. The upper cruise cancel switch signals the cruise to turn off as soon as the button isn't being pressed and the lower safety switch only allows the starter to engage while the button is being pressed down. The only adjustments neccessary are setting the switch depths like NOS3LN mentioned so that the switches just get pressed by the rubber pads with pedal up and pedal down by threading the lock nuts up/down to adjust.

No dealership computer programming should ever be required.

jwick 03-18-2014 11:40 PM

No electrical issues. The dealer had to replace the brake and clutch cancel switches. The tech made me drive around while he had Consult plugged in to make sure everything was synced properly. He told me it was a real pita to make sure they were synced.

Ryan @ RJM 03-19-2014 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick (Post 2742962)
No electrical issues. The dealer had to replace the brake and clutch cancel switches. The tech made me drive around while he had Consult plugged in to make sure everything was synced properly. He told me it was a real pita to make sure they were synced.

jwick, you should be all good then. Like I said the switches simply make contact at either end of the pedal travel with neither having any effect for the vast majority of the pedal stroke so I'm not sure what he truly means when he said "synced" them other than making sure the ECU was registering their expected inputs with pedal full up and pedal full down. I know the ECU will freak out and throw a bunch of dash warning lights if you try to engage cruise control with the pedal partly down or a faulty cruise switch causing no signal to be sent confusing the computer. So he was likely confirming thru Consult the switches were indeed sending correct info to the computer. Had the saftey switch been bad the car simply would not start but wouldn't throw any codes or warnings since a bad safety switch wouldn't complete the circuit telling the ECU it's safe to start, just as if someone forgets to press the clutch fully in before hitting the start button on the dash.

Hope that helps:tiphat:

jooonnn 04-01-2014 07:33 PM

Ordered! Excited to install it asap!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

onzedge 04-01-2014 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan @ RJM (Post 2743267)
jwick, you should be all good then. Like I said the switches simply make contact at either end of the pedal travel with neither having any effect for the vast majority of the pedal stroke so I'm not sure what he truly means when he said "synced" them other than making sure the ECU was registering their expected inputs with pedal full up and pedal full down. I know the ECU will freak out and throw a bunch of dash warning lights if you try to engage cruise control with the pedal partly down or a faulty cruise switch causing no signal to be sent confusing the computer. So he was likely confirming thru Consult the switches were indeed sending correct info to the computer. Had the saftey switch been bad the car simply would not start but wouldn't throw any codes or warnings since a bad safety switch wouldn't complete the circuit telling the ECU it's safe to start, just as if someone forgets to press the clutch fully in before hitting the start button on the dash.

Hope that helps:tiphat:

Quote:

Originally Posted by jooonnn (Post 2764183)
Ordered! Excited to install it asap!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

:tup:

Fountainhead 04-01-2014 09:12 PM

My Z won't start simply by pushing IN the pedal down switch, you must first move the pedal OFF the Pedal up switch THEN press IN the Pedal down switch before cranking will occur. I don't see how they could be synchronized if it's a foot doing the pushing!
The reason I know is I wanted to put in a pedal down bypass switch and was doing some experimenting.

Ryan @ RJM 04-01-2014 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fountainhead (Post 2764331)
My Z won't start simply by pushing IN the pedal down switch, you must first move the pedal OFF the Pedal up switch THEN press IN the Pedal down switch before cranking will occur. I don't see how they could be synchronized if it's a foot doing the pushing!
The reason I know is I wanted to put in a pedal down bypass switch and was doing some experimenting.

Must be a deliberate safety feature Nissan wrote into the ECU's code for the push button startup as it would be very easy to bypass the clutch safety otherwise by holding the switch down or simply unplugging it and putting a jumper wire across the contacts. The ECU watches the inputs of both switch circuits and won't do a start sequence unless both conditions are met at the same time (Cruise OFF, Start ON)

kjz 04-08-2014 04:01 PM

I just bought this last weekend and it will be delivered this weekend.
ill share review after installation.. i can't wait !!! lol


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:26 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2