I might look into doing this mod. Supporting some fellow Canucks is a nice bonus.

Just installed with my buddy, he did most of the work, I just handled the stuff that needed a bit more flexibility to do lol, we used his garage and tools nice and shaded area since it was pretty damn hot out today.

The feel is awesome. Highly recommended.

I got used to the stock pedal, and I've only had the car for a month and after installing the RJM AFP adjustable clutch pedal, traffic is no longer an issue, the pedal is simply an amazing piece of hardware, well done by RJM.

Anyway long story short, get the pedal and enjoy your (stock in my case) clutch. I can see how people with a sport clutch swear by this thing.

-Cheers

RJM AFP Clutch pedal
 

I have a few questions for the people that have DIY installed this clutch pedal:

• How well does the clutch pedal return after heavy use?
• Is the installation as easy as in RJM's instructions?
• Any other tips for future DIY installation is appreciated!

Just installed mine last night and very impressed. My 6-puck clutch went from pita to better than stock feel and control, as advertised. I locked it at the starting settings and haven't even experimented with different settings yet. I might adjust the clutch engagement point slightly lower but that's it.
Anybody with a "grabby" performance clutch should jump on this asap!

Is this mainly a drivability upgrade or performance upgrade? Or both?
I'm looking to make my shifts smoother during daily driving..

So, I just finished installing mine, and havent had any driving time yet but heres what I have to say about the install.

Im a left handed person, my right hand is useless. Working under the dash on the left side of the car which means doing every connection, nut, bolt, pin, adjustment etc with my useless right hand was super agravating. I was pouring sweat and couldnt coordinate my fingers properly so it took me a full 2 hrs to do the install.

Not something I want to do any time soon. If I was right handed it would have been done in half the time easily!

Anyways, I should have soom seat time tomorrow so I will report back,I expect all the effort to be well worth it based on all the reviews.

Ok, so I had some seat time now after I completed the install and all the effort with my right hand was worth it. The part is extremely well built and does exactly what they say it does with no negative side effects.

I now have:

-Shorter over all clutch pedal throw
-Smoother clutch engagement without any effort
-Firmer clutch pedal feel

I havent adjusted it yet after the initial setup as per the instructions but it feels good where it is so I am going to leave it there for a while.

Is there a "stock" setting on this clutch.. something like if I don't like it i can set it at the stock setting and it'll act just like the stock clutch pedal?

I have a stock clutch but my shifts are jerky as it seems i can't keep my leg steady while pulling out the clutch and the engagement window is too small for me to try and smooth it out. Would this pedal be recommended in this case?

I just installed mine this afternoon.

The install is pretty straight forward: just undo both safety switch harnesses, pop out the wire holder that holds the bottom one, use a 12m deep socket to take out the 3 bolts that hold the whole assembly comes out. Replace the clutch fork with the one in the kit. Bolt up the new assembly and slide the new pedal in that comes with the kit.

Only stuff I got hung up on during the install was getting the fork off the first time, wasnt thinking about it in terms that the bolt after the fork needs to spin to the right to get the fork to come off, mounting the bracket perfectly so all threads can come through.

I drove it around the first time how it came out of the box and it felt like I had maybe about 3 inches of pedal play, it was too close to the floor for me the way it was engaging.. I raised it up a bit and now it seems better.

I dont know maybe if I didnt tighten something down enough but the pedal at the very top is kind of sloppy with some play to it.. but once you depress it, it's smooth. Idk I gotta drive it around a bit more and see.

Djrelic, Yes it sounds like the upper switch needs to be adjusted down to take up the slack at the top of pedal stroke.
Unclip the return spring so that the pedal is resting right at the top of the master cylinder stroke. Adjust the switch down until the button is just depressed. Tigten the switch nuts and snap the reutn spring back into its keeper. The play at the top before starting to depress the MC rod should now be almost zero. (See Steps 41 & 43 of the Install Guide)

The 2 side bolts that lock the clutch rod angle adjustment also serve the secondary purpose of taking up the side to side play in the main shaft bearings. These need to be torqued a little at a time while checking the side-side play of the pedal arm. Tighten these down until the play is just gone but the pedal still moves freely (bearings not being pinched)
(See Step 39 and photos of the Install Guide.)

That should eliminate both issues you're seeing.
Cheers
Ryan@RJM Performance

This looks awesome.

Nice, I had a feeling might be the issue. I had it kind of shallow mounted just to get it on the road. I'll adjust it soon and see if that fixes the issue. It should.

A question through about the revised fork... I had the bolt behind the fork all the way down on the clutch rod and I put the form on in the kit... It says in the kit instructions that in the revised fork that the threads do not show through it... I know when I installed mine the threads come up about more than half way in the clutch fork. Is that normal? Everything is fine... Just wondering if I was being too gentle with it.

Yes, that sounds perfectly normal. The photo used in the install guide was of the original fork which had a much thinner threaded base then the new revised ones. So on the old ones the tip of the clutch rod would come right through and poke up. The Revised ones are more then twice as thick at the base of the fork so you will no longer see the tip of the clutch rod come through.

This was done to both lengthen the fork giving a better adjustment range for the friction point as well as having more active threads engaged to hold the fork.

Bandit_Kaine, yes you can dial the settings right back to stock if you wish by simply turning the fulcrum point adjustment wheel to the right. From the fully stock position (0% Fulcrum Setting) you can then adjust the engagement width as much as you like up to 10 full turns of adjustment wheel to the left for 100% of the available fulcrum adjustment travel.

Increasing from 0% will lower the friction point and widen out the engagement window so you can modulate the pedal much easier for smoother launches and much nicer shifts. Once you've adjusted the engagement width to your liking you can then independantly adjust the friction point to where you're most comfortable as well.

I'd call this mod both. It's 110% all about upgrading the drivability and enjoyment of our cars. It also serves as a performance mod in that you can dial in a heavy unsprung puck type or twin/tripple disk clutch to be much more enjoyable in daily driving.

For anyone who hates being stuck in traffic this will make life a whole lot easier allowing you to simply roll off the clutch with little or no revs needed to keep from bucking, stalling, shuddering, jerking or otherwise looking stupid while trying to move up a 1/2 car length at a time.