Re: throttle tuning, see here: http://www.the370z.com/tuning/43384-...tle-uprev.html

The ECU knows the trans temp, but unfortunately "normal" OBD-II readers can't see it, just Consult at the dealership. If you do overheat the transmission, there's a failsafe where if the temperature (as measured on the 7AT's mini-ECU) see 293F or higher for 2 full minutes, or a single spike to 302F, it goes into a failsafe mode that cuts your throttle position.

I have yet to hear of anyone actually hitting this in the real world, because before you reach that point, the 7AT will start misbehaving due to elevated temps (gets slushier and slower), and you kinda "know" by the feel that it's getting overworked.

The oil cooler is more important by far, and IMHO you never need the 7AT cooler for regular street driving. It's a must for track driving though.

Here's the thing you guys are missing... see bold:

The 370Z’s 7-speed automatic with Downshift Rev Matching (DRM) and Adaptive Shift Control (ASC) is designed to offer quick, manual-like shifting when operated in manual mode with a target time of 0.5 seconds between shifts. Drivers can use the standard paddle shifters or the shift lever. With optimized torque converter lock-up logic, the 7-speed automatic feels very direct, like a manual transmission. The 7-speed’s wide gear ratios offer improved fuel efficiency (versus a 5-speed automatic), while the Adaptive Shift Control is designed to adjust to the driver’s driving style.

You have to drive the car in the mode you want it to perform in for a while. Then, it shifts like you wouldn't believe. I'm sold on the S7 tranny. Even double downshifts come easily if you know what speed you can do them at. No over reving here. Remember it's a little different for a six speed because it shifts very fast through the gears at bottom end to get you going. If you tromp on it and hold it to 7K then shift it shoot you out of the slot like no other. I am truly impressed and I have driven only stick shifts in my sports cars to this point. Back in 2004 I tried the auto in a Z and G and it was way sluggish. This is a completely different beast. Give it time to adapt to your driving style, then let me know what you think. It takes about 20-30mins to adapt as far as I can tell. That is driving through tight twisties.... Then it is a completely different car. 10 mins back in auto mode the car drives like your mom's car.

I'm loving the S7 more and more each day. I always win the stop light battle to the freeway on ramp... By the time I hit the on ramp they are just a spec in my mirror and I have to start looking for the officer because I'm going way too fast.

I have to be careful or this car is going to get me a lot of tickets. It's just too fun to rev to 7K so that I can feel that hard shift into second. At that point, I'm over 60mph and in trouble already...

Enjoy the ride !!! AJ on his seventh Z car now.

Your right on as far as I can tell ... You should just leave the program alone and let it adapt... You want to beat on the car racing but, you don't want to break anything. Been there and done that with modified shift programs on autos before. Plus, I believe in stock mode the little bit of slip you get on engagement in the corners helps you from sliding around in VDC off mode. Most of you guys wouldn't think about upshifting a manual half way through a corner. Very nice how that all works... :hello:

If memory serves, I've got it around 25-30% higher across the board after about 1.5K, and it is definitely much faster off the line. 3-4 can be a bit rough, and could potentially upset the chassis if you aren't careful, but I found that a gentle relaxing of throttle input on the shift will cause it to read a slightly lower load value, and soften the shift without losing engine speed or road speed.

That said, I imagine a slightly lower setting would be a good compromise for optimal straight line driving and cornering. Feels good to me as is -- but it's definitely something that would have to be experimented with by anyone tracking the car to get it just right. I think for a road car you can have it set be a bit more aggressively safely.

Also, the faster shifts should put less wear on the clutch bands, while only marginally increasing shock to hard parts. Overall, you probably break about even in overall wear and tear.

It's transparent, really, unless you have a six puck or something. Those are totally unnecessary imo though. 800whp in a civic didn't necessitate my friend having one, and his car drove very nice low speeds and in traffic. I'm staying stock though, so no issue. Traffic and a stock never irked me.

I drove a new 2012. It was cold out, but I could tell that wasn't the issue. At part throttle, it just takes time even in manual. I felt very disconnected. I'm going from a high ten/low eleven second car to this, so a tenth or two in the 1/4 is the least of my worries. I just want the most fun, and after driving the a7, I personally, for me, feel that m6 is the way to go for me. I'm not taking a swipe at the a7 other than to say yes it was a tad indecisive, its just not my thing, but I wanted to give it a go rather than regret it later.

I did not take the adaptive nature into account at all.

Also read about temp above your post, sounds like it won't matter one bit to me. I won't overheating it.

I'm kindof torn, but the reason is all the bad I hear about the manuals vs. The disconnect I have always felt with automatics. I'm still in the manual camp, but if they find the car I want except in auto, ill be stressing.

Here is another reason to get a manual :tup: : Not only are manual transmissions awesome, they're a theft deterrent

Took a two hour mountain drive with my 7AT yesterday:

I was smoother and more accurate with the steering-two hands on the wheel.
I was able to concentrate on the next corner better.
No missed shifts.
Effortless up and down shifts in mid corner.
Down shifts don't upset the car in mid corner.
I was a faster and probably safer driver due to fewer distractions.

Other bonuses:

Easier in traffic.
Better gas mileage.
Quicker.
More gears to choose from.
Quicker down shifts than a manual if traffic surprises you and you need power right now- stomp on it and go.
Better trade-in.
The shifts are faster than you think.

Negatives:

It's direct but not as direct as a manual.
The manual involves you more.
Manual is more "raw".
A manual is cheaper to buy.

I've always preferred manuals but an occasional issue with my left leg made me give the 7AT a look. From time to time I wish I had a manual but I keep finding more ways to exploit the advantages of the 7AT so I'm happy with my choice.

Get what YOU want.

Wait...other poster said it locks shifts out in corners... Which is it? See page one, first reply. I'm on my cell or I would link and quote.

mines shifts in corners, braking, whenever i ask it to.

Yeah he's referring to this quote from WWJD:

I donno, I guess we could talk to WWJD and try to get more info about what issues he was having, but I assure you the 7AT is meant to shift under all reasonable conditions, including while braking, cornering, and/or accelerating very hard. I'll link my track video clips again, where you can clearly see my 7AT doing all of the above in various places (well, I try to avoid shifting while actively turning a tight corner so you won't see much of that, but it does in fact do so just fine): TDE MSR-Houston Nov 6 2011 - YouTube

Import, Mecanoid could not have put it any better. The at takes time to really understand its capability. Early in the thread red posted wwjd's review. I personally can downshift while decelerating or accelerating. And I'm not sure about what he meant about NOT being able to shift in turns but I don't shift until I am in a position to launch out of a turn. The 7at is incredible. From my standpoint, you lose out on 3 things.
1. The ability to burnout
2. Exhaust note is less aggressive than the manual/very mild torque converter drone. But nothing close to how bad other autos have it.
3. If you are really used to the clutch, you will feel like you need something to step on with your left leg at first. I have driven every shifting auto out there in the Z's price range and above. Nothing feels like it except the DCT's out there.

I'm not telling you to buy the auto. And I'm not going to say the auto is better than a manual. But I will say this. It will be a long time till another car brand will be able to duplicate this level of performance from a slushbox. When people are in my car and I'm shifting. They think its a manual transmission. Power delivery from the auto is that direct. I will take the pepsi challenge on power delivery with the 7at. Its just that impressive.

Obviously there will be advantages to a manual on a few levels.
Turbos bigger than stage 2. Drifting is easier. The art of heal and toe when SRM is off. But the 7 at provides so much diversity in its programming. I thing it makes it easy to transition from manual to auto. :)

:iagree::iagree::iagree::iagree::iagree::driving:

He may be referring to the fact that it will automatically downshift if the revs drop below 1.5 K.

I find that mildly annoying too, but you can downshift before it happens and if you don't, we'll then you are in the right gear for when you plan to accelerate out of the corner, so it all works out.

It's a minor issue -- basically you can't really be in the "wrong" gear as revs drop. Otherwise the 7AT is pretty much perfect.

Anybody know whether the GT-R does that too?

Don't know the status of the GT-R or other PDK/DSG-type transmissions on the automatic downshifts. However, on our 7AT it's really more of a help than a hinderance. If you're actively managing your downshifts you'll be hitting that button way before the TCM does it for you. The TCM downshifts at a pathetically low RPM just to prevent a long-period loss of lockup (or for that matter, engine shutoff eventually) due to low RPMs. If you're not actively managing downshifts (e.g. coming down to a red light in normal everyday street traffic), just let it do its thing and it'll keep you in the right gear for a very mild and fuel-efficient takeoff when traffic starts moving again :)

I agree. I tested if it would downshift or kill the car or buck. I liked that it does that. I imagine without the rest of the stuff ( stick and clutch) going on a lot of people would forget to ds and kill it often.

I have just not had good luck with autos, but if they find my car 100% as I want it except in auto, I might consider. I just have never seen a reliable auto, and do plan on keeping the car long term. I have owned 3 autos so far. Killed em all, or at least had them slipping on hot days. Never killed a manual.

one thing reason i like a manual over the auto is being able to push in the clutch and coast in nuetral. other than that i will take the 7AT. Its a perfect balance for those of us that want to be comfortable cruising and switch to manual mode to have fun also.

I wish they would put the GT-R's DCT into the next gen Z, that would be awesome :tup:

Well this ain't your grandpa's slush box PERIOD...
Has anyone driven the mustang or camero AT. how do they compare?
i'll stick my neck out say they don't, close but not quite....

imho it comes down to personal choice were all z owners here
so we all win...............

iv'e owned both but it was the paddles that sold me just had to have them!!

I'm not sure on the camaros or mustang, but when the vette came out with the 6a, it was within a tenth or two of a second with a pro driver on the same track or something rediculously insignificant to anyone but a magazine article racer.

That's how I see it too, and I'm fine with it. I have had other semi autos that didn't down shift until you were at about idle, and then it went immediately to first -- I liked that better, but I can certainly accept this.

All the horror stories of the manual still have me considering : /

Just a vocal few, or what? Seems like damn near everyone here with a manual has a grinding issue.

Really the reason I stand up and advocate the 7AT so much is because otherwise it gets **** on a lot just out of the general "sportscars aren't autos" mindset, and it's a fine choice :). So that aside keep in mind they're both fine options, the car rocks with either one, and there's a long list of minor perfectionist quibbles people will make about both of them. I wouldn't let that list stand in the way of a decision though: just pick what you're gonna be happier driving :).

Is be much happier with a manual...if it doesn't grind. :/

Just read...traction control is not defeatable with a7? NO burnout possible?

Thats impossible!!! You need to test drive one and STOP reading BS

You need only to turn off the VDC and floor it!!

It was an auto magazine review. I'm on my phone or I would link it. I took it as credible being as it was an automag test drive feature. But its total bs?
(I don't feel ok doing burn outs on a test drive. I don't even do them in my car, but to NOT be able to would grit at me.)

I totally understand but like you know sometimes reviews are subjective. I know for a fact you can do burn outs if necessary in a 7AT with the VDC off and even then its intrusive but it won't stop it from happening.
Here's an old video

What Autos can't do that :rolleyes:. Thanks for the vid Triple's:tiphat:

I'd say some cars are better suited to automatics while others are better with a manual.

With the 370z demanding your attention and skill to drive it quickly, it feels suited to a manual.

Are you saying to get a cooler for the transmission? I am going to a track day next weekend and no one has mentioned a cooler for the tranny. How important is this? Also, I thought the tranny was sealed. How do you change the fluid?

i am a major beginner so bare with em if I am asking something stupid. I do have an oil cooler already, though, if that is what you were referring to.

I would personally only get a MT if it was a 3 speed. I had a three speed high performance mt in an 81 camaro and I loved it. I don't track but I drive hard and for pleasure often.

pretty sure he's talking about a tranny cooler. and oil cooler is also a must for the track.

i haven't heard much about a tranny cooler, is this a must for a beginner at the track?

You *can* do a track day without an AT cooler, esp if it's one of your first. Just be cognizant of not overheating it too much. If you're only doing 10-15 minute sessions of balls-out driving and getting some cooldown in-between, it will probably ok, especially in winter weather. You'll know it when it starts getting too hot. It will start performing crappier (slower shifts, etc), you'll feel it.

As far as fluid changes go: from a factory service manual perspective, it's supposed to be "maintenance-free" for the consumer. So they don't provide a dipstick for checking the level, or any sort of easy filler tube either. There are procedures for checking fluid level and draining/filling, but the draining and filling is done via drain-fill plugs on the transmission body itself (much like with a manual or a differential).

The correct fill level, as with most things of this nature, is when it barely seeps out of the fill hole. However, to get the factory-correct fill amount, you have to check this with the internal temperature of the 7AT in a very specific range. The TCM knows this temperature, but only Dealership tools can read the temperature to know the fill is correct. That's the reason that, generally speaking, only the Dealership can deal with fluid checks/changes.

In practice, you should probably get the fluid swapped every ~20K miles for a hard-driven and/or lightly-tracked car, IMHO. The easiest and most reliable way to do it at this time is to have a dealership do it for you. Just make sure they don't just send some random tech to do a "standard" transmission flush. Be sure they've read the 370Z service manual and understand about the filling procedures and checking Consult-III temps, otherwise they're doing no better guesswork than you could in your garage.

Supposedly GTM was working out a set of instructions for us to reliably refill without a dealership. They probably developed a guideline based on spot-checking some point on the transmission's outer case with an IR thermometer. Never heard any more details on this though.

How much does a transmission cooler for the 7AT cost?

I started with Stillen's kit at $329, but I ended up replacing the hoses and some of the connectors. I think GTM and maybe Z1 have kits as well. This was my post about my changes to the Stillen kit, would've been cheaper in the end to put it together myself and buy the Setrab core directly.