VDC off and wheel slip lights on dash....

Zeetah · 02-27-2017, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smashley

Doesn't matter if the car is off or on when checking brake fluid.
Use a DOT 3/4 compatible brake fluid. Doesn't matter what brand. I use Valvoline Synthetic and have no issues.
Don't worry about fluid overflow until you change brake pads and then you can use a syringe to suck some out.

Last question, I read somewhere that some cars you need to pump the brake like 20 times before checking the brake fluid or topping off, do we need to do that? And thanks for the reply

JARblue · 02-27-2017, 02:47 PM

Not on this car. Just add brake fluid and be done with it.

Smashley · 02-27-2017, 03:10 PM

One thing I noticed about my clutch fluid....
When I use the expensive redline synthetic my fluid gets dark really quickly around a week, but when I use the cheaper Valvoline which is what I normally use it remains clear for months. I flushed the redline and went back to Valvoline and no issues so far

JARblue · 02-27-2017, 07:36 PM

What kind of Redline fluid did you use?

It doesn't explain your experience between the different fluids, but I've battled the clutch hydraulic system in this car extensively. Try not pushing the clutch pedal all the way down - only push down enough to engage/disengage the clutch. The master cylinder is really weak and "stabbing" at the clutch and extending the full stroke of the master can let fluid past the interior seals allowing contaminants into the system.

SouthArk370Z · 02-27-2017, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

... Try not pushing the clutch pedal all the way down - only push down enough to engage/disengage the clutch. The master cylinder is really weak and "stabbing" at the clutch and extending the full stroke of the master can let fluid past the interior seals allowing contaminants into the system.

Would a stop somewhere in the linkage or a block on the floor under the pedal help?

Smashley · 02-27-2017, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jarblue

what kind of redline fluid did you use?

It doesn't explain your experience between the different fluids, but i've battled the clutch hydraulic system in this car extensively. Try not pushing the clutch pedal all the way down - only push down enough to engage/disengage the clutch. The master cylinder is really weak and "stabbing" at the clutch and extending the full stroke of the master can let fluid past the interior seals allowing contaminants into the system.

rl 600

JARblue · 02-27-2017, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

Would a stop somewhere in the linkage or a block on the floor under the pedal help?

I considered looking into a taller rubber stop at the end of the the pedal stroke. But I found the minor modification in my driving habits have kept my clutch fluid reservoir much cleaner for much longer than previously. I used to change it at least every 6 months just because it was dirty, but it's been over 6 months since the last bleed and still looks pretty much new.

Frankly, if Nissan is going to use a master cylinder that can't handle a full stroke of the stock clutch pedal without being compromised, then they should have implemented some sort of stop or design element to prevent the issue from occurring at all.

02-27-2017, 02:47 PM	#62 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,449 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Not on this car. Just add brake fluid and be done with it. Smashley likes this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

02-27-2017, 07:36 PM	#64 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,449 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	What kind of Redline fluid did you use? It doesn't explain your experience between the different fluids, but I've battled the clutch hydraulic system in this car extensively. Try not pushing the clutch pedal all the way down - only push down enough to engage/disengage the clutch. The master cylinder is really weak and "stabbing" at the clutch and extending the full stroke of the master can let fluid past the interior seals allowing contaminants into the system. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

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02-27-2017, 03:10 PM	#63 (permalink)
Smashley Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Maryland Posts: 347 Drives: mt/sport/tour MB Rep Power: 11	One thing I noticed about my clutch fluid.... When I use the expensive redline synthetic my fluid gets dark really quickly around a week, but when I use the cheaper Valvoline which is what I normally use it remains clear for months. I flushed the redline and went back to Valvoline and no issues so far