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VDC off and wheel slip lights on dash....

Originally Posted by JARblue ... Try not pushing the clutch pedal all the way down - only push down enough to engage/disengage the clutch. The master cylinder is really weak

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Old 02-27-2017, 08:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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... Try not pushing the clutch pedal all the way down - only push down enough to engage/disengage the clutch. The master cylinder is really weak and "stabbing" at the clutch and extending the full stroke of the master can let fluid past the interior seals allowing contaminants into the system.
Would a stop somewhere in the linkage or a block on the floor under the pedal help?
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Old 02-27-2017, 10:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Would a stop somewhere in the linkage or a block on the floor under the pedal help?
I considered looking into a taller rubber stop at the end of the the pedal stroke. But I found the minor modification in my driving habits have kept my clutch fluid reservoir much cleaner for much longer than previously. I used to change it at least every 6 months just because it was dirty, but it's been over 6 months since the last bleed and still looks pretty much new.

Frankly, if Nissan is going to use a master cylinder that can't handle a full stroke of the stock clutch pedal without being compromised, then they should have implemented some sort of stop or design element to prevent the issue from occurring at all.
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Last edited by JARblue; 02-27-2017 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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what kind of redline fluid did you use?

It doesn't explain your experience between the different fluids, but i've battled the clutch hydraulic system in this car extensively. Try not pushing the clutch pedal all the way down - only push down enough to engage/disengage the clutch. The master cylinder is really weak and "stabbing" at the clutch and extending the full stroke of the master can let fluid past the interior seals allowing contaminants into the system.
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