Clutch pedal too soft/no feel? Remove the helper spring!

cruzmisl · 10-04-2012, 10:02 PM

Supposedly the century spring has even less resistance, but is also a bit longer so less play at the very top.

roy'sz · 10-07-2012, 12:25 PM

I put it in yesterday. Im going to have to get used to it all over again. But believe it or not I dont like how slow it disengages the clutch. It is noticeably slower than the stock spring as far as resistance and clutch pedal movement and that obiviously helps out as far as getting the feel back of the "friction point." I dunno, just goin to give it some time and see how it works out.

LMBmikeZ · 10-07-2012, 07:13 PM

That's weird and the first time I have herd of that complaint.

cruzmisl · 10-10-2012, 09:56 PM

So I was trying to pop out the pins, and....lost one behind the plastic panel on the left.

I pulled the panel and looked around but couldn't find it. Looks like it slid down somewhere to the floor of the car.

Does anyone think it's referred to by nissan as the snap pin? (.76c third from the bottom) Part Detail

Hope it doesn't rattle down there.

elperuano · 10-10-2012, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzmisl

So I was trying to pop out the pins, and....lost one behind the plastic panel on the left.

I pulled the panel and looked around but couldn't find it. Looks like it slid down somewhere to the floor of the car.

Does anyone think it's referred to by nissan as the snap pin? (.76c third from the bottom) Part Detail

UGGGGH. If it starts to rattle I'm going to need to rip everything apart!

Lol, I hate when stuff like that happens.. Good luck getting it sorted out! Its the smallest little things that are a PITA!

cruzmisl · 10-11-2012, 06:37 PM

Firstly, not sure how the FFFFFFFFFU*$*($$(($CKI$J you guys swap out the spring so easily by just removing the bottom pin. Basically, with the clutch all the way down, the spring assembly was impossible to line up with the hole and get the pin in. If I had a third hand to slightly compress the spring and bring it in line, I might have gotten it to work.

Anyway, new century spring is in, hopefully the last time I'll swap it.

The esfourteen was definitely an improvement over stock, no question. After a day with the century link spring, I have to say it is still definitely worth the change from the esfourteen. The esfourteen had a bit of slack at the top, and this reduces it to where this legitimately feels like it should be a dealer option.

Still kind of bitter about losing the top circlip and the bolt for the fuse panel piece. I guess it's my fault for doing this while sick and not being as careful as I usually am. $h1t just flying all over the place this time

Jsolo · 10-12-2012, 02:36 PM

My first time doing this I had the same issue. I lost the C clip from the top pin behind the fuse box. Tried retrieving it with one of those telescoping magnet tools but no luck.

Ended up pulling several panels to get at it. This was in the middle of December with a car I just brought home few days earlier. What a PITA. After closely examining the arrangement, it became apparent only the bottom pin/clevis had to come out.

The trick is to insert the pin part way into the clevis BEFORE lining up the clevis with the rest of the assembly. In fact, begin with the pin facing you (while partly in the clevis). As i depress the pedal with the left hand, I line up the pin/clevis with the rest of the bracket. At the same time, once lined up, push pin (with right hand) all the way through. It seriously took me longer to type this out than it would to do it.

Also worth noting, although the clevis may appear symmetrical, I don't believe it is. One side of the part is stamped with 2 small circles/dimples. These should face to the right/passenger side when installed. Otherwise, I've found it is difficult to remove it later.

MXSG · 10-12-2012, 02:43 PM

I never bothered to reinstall the c-clip, so what does it even do? If it's to prevent the pin from sliding out, I can't see that it's needed, my pin is locked in tight.

Magic Bus · 10-12-2012, 03:37 PM

Did this mod with the spring from LMBmikeZ. For only $20 shipped, it's worth doing. It will not make you a pro driver but it does increase clutch feel.

However it's not as easy to do as some people say. First of all, you need to be a contortionist to get under there, press the clutch with one hand and remove the C clip & pin with the other. I couldn't do it.

So I got a dowel and a block of wood, depressed the clutch with it and wedged it against the drivers seat. Now I had 2 hands free. I removed the bottom C clip but couldn't remove the pin. So I replaced the C clip and proceeded to the top C clip & pin. Fortunately that one came off fairly easily and as others have said, all you need to do is remove one pin.

One last thing, make sure you have good lighting to put under there before starting the job.

Jsolo · 10-12-2012, 04:26 PM

^^You don't need to press the pedal to remove the clip. Only to remove the pin. You are right about needing to be a contortionist though. If you're a big guy, it will be difficult.

cruzmisl · 10-12-2012, 04:44 PM

Here's what I did at 11:45PM, after long bouts of swearing and bruised ribs and sore shoulders: BTW, I don't recommend anyone doing this and do not take responsibility for following my desperate stupidity.

Since I couldn't get the bottom pin to go in with the pedal fully engaged, I ended up taking the top out and started with the bottom installed first. I couldn't get the top pin in when the pedal was down, so I put the spring mechanism firmly into place and slowly let go of the pedal. I realize this meant that the spring mechanism is loaded now without a top pin installed to keep it in place, but at 52lb or whatever, I figured I would put on some safety goggles and quickly slip the top pin in with my hand over the spring mechanism to keep it from popping out, and hoping it was all lined up to allow easy insertion of the pin (unlike the ******* bottom, which I couldn't line up after many attempts).

I would not do this under any circumstance with the stock 300lb+ spring, and my justification for the new spring being less dangerous might be misinformed, but I was so f'n tired of dealing with it that I was prepared to live with this flying around my cockpit like the cirpin and the fuse panel nut (both of which have disappeared into oblivion within my interior).

Anywho, got it in, and I'm not replacing it again.

cruzmisl · 10-12-2012, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MXSG

I never bothered to reinstall the c-clip, so what does it even do? If it's to prevent the pin from sliding out, I can't see that it's needed, my pin is locked in tight.

Doesn't take much lateral movement to slip it out. Is it likely to slip out? Probably not, but it would suck if it did.

ronn1 · 11-18-2012, 11:16 PM

I don't get this..
I have an 08 350Z..and yes..when I first drove it, the clutch took a bit of getting used to. I stalled this mofo at first when taking off. However, I learned how to feather the clutch, using the ball of my foot. It's a piece of cake to engage once you have figured this out. So much pissing and moaning over nothing as far as I'm concerned. The STOCK clutch pedal works fine and dandy...just have to adjust to it.

Woops..need to edit this..
Should read>>>

*Using the HEEL* of my foot as as a fulcrum/pivot

MaDMaXX · 11-18-2012, 11:34 PM

Um, what part of your foot did you used to use?!?!

ronn1 · 11-18-2012, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaDMaXX

Um, what part of your foot did you used to use?!?!

Guess I messed up..the HEEL is now used as a fulcrum. Sorry bout that.
My HEEL is planted and I then have much more control/leverage as I apply the foot down on the pedal.

10-04-2012, 10:02 PM	#406 (permalink)
cruzmisl Base Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Hillsboro, OR Posts: 122 Drives: 08 G37S 6MT Rep Power: 15	Supposedly the century spring has even less resistance, but is also a bit longer so less play at the very top. __________________ 2008 G37S - Mods: Car Freshner - Coconut

10-07-2012, 07:13 PM	#408 (permalink)
LMBmikeZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 12,237 Drives: 40th Rep Power: 10349	That's weird and the first time I have herd of that complaint. __________________ CUSTOM NISMO \| BERK \| H&R \| STANCE \| SPL everything \| EVO-R \| 34 Setrab \| WHITELINE \| Redline \| Carkitcompany \| Zspeed \| UpRev \| SEIBON

10-10-2012, 09:56 PM	#409 (permalink)
cruzmisl Base Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Hillsboro, OR Posts: 122 Drives: 08 G37S 6MT Rep Power: 15	So I was trying to pop out the pins, and....lost one behind the plastic panel on the left. I pulled the panel and looked around but couldn't find it. Looks like it slid down somewhere to the floor of the car. Does anyone think it's referred to by nissan as the snap pin? (.76c third from the bottom) Part Detail Hope it doesn't rattle down there. __________________ 2008 G37S - Mods: Car Freshner - Coconut Last edited by cruzmisl; 10-10-2012 at 10:32 PM.

10-11-2012, 06:37 PM	#411 (permalink)
cruzmisl Base Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Hillsboro, OR Posts: 122 Drives: 08 G37S 6MT Rep Power: 15	Firstly, not sure how the FFFFFFFFFU$($$(($CKI$J you guys swap out the spring so easily by just removing the bottom pin. Basically, with the clutch all the way down, the spring assembly was impossible to line up with the hole and get the pin in. If I had a third hand to slightly compress the spring and bring it in line, I might have gotten it to work. Anyway, new century spring is in, hopefully the last time I'll swap it. The esfourteen was definitely an improvement over stock, no question. After a day with the century link spring, I have to say it is still definitely worth the change from the esfourteen. The esfourteen had a bit of slack at the top, and this reduces it to where this legitimately feels like it should be a dealer option. Still kind of bitter about losing the top circlip and the bolt for the fuse panel piece. I guess it's my fault for doing this while sick and not being as careful as I usually am. $h1t just flying all over the place this time __________________ 2008 G37S - Mods: Car Freshner - Coconut

10-12-2012, 02:36 PM	#412 (permalink)
Jsolo Track Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: chicago Posts: 783 Drives: '12 G37 6MT Rep Power: 14	My first time doing this I had the same issue. I lost the C clip from the top pin behind the fuse box. Tried retrieving it with one of those telescoping magnet tools but no luck. Ended up pulling several panels to get at it. This was in the middle of December with a car I just brought home few days earlier. What a PITA. After closely examining the arrangement, it became apparent only the bottom pin/clevis had to come out. The trick is to insert the pin part way into the clevis BEFORE lining up the clevis with the rest of the assembly. In fact, begin with the pin facing you (while partly in the clevis). As i depress the pedal with the left hand, I line up the pin/clevis with the rest of the bracket. At the same time, once lined up, push pin (with right hand) all the way through. It seriously took me longer to type this out than it would to do it. Also worth noting, although the clevis may appear symmetrical, I don't believe it is. One side of the part is stamped with 2 small circles/dimples. These should face to the right/passenger side when installed. Otherwise, I've found it is difficult to remove it later. __________________ G37S Sedan 6MT, Eibach swaybars, Invidia Exhaust, Weaker Clutch Pedal Spring For sale links

10-07-2012, 12:25 PM	#407 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 15	I put it in yesterday. Im going to have to get used to it all over again. But believe it or not I dont like how slow it disengages the clutch. It is noticeably slower than the stock spring as far as resistance and clutch pedal movement and that obiviously helps out as far as getting the feel back of the "friction point." I dunno, just goin to give it some time and see how it works out.

10-12-2012, 02:43 PM	#413 (permalink)
MXSG Base Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Lakeland, FL Posts: 20 Drives: '12 Base+Sport 6MT Rep Power: 13	I never bothered to reinstall the c-clip, so what does it even do? If it's to prevent the pin from sliding out, I can't see that it's needed, my pin is locked in tight.

10-12-2012, 03:37 PM	#414 (permalink)
Magic Bus A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2012 Location: Honolulu Posts: 1,427 Drives: 17 6MT M2 Rep Power: 18753	Did this mod with the spring from LMBmikeZ. For only $20 shipped, it's worth doing. It will not make you a pro driver but it does increase clutch feel. However it's not as easy to do as some people say. First of all, you need to be a contortionist to get under there, press the clutch with one hand and remove the C clip & pin with the other. I couldn't do it. So I got a dowel and a block of wood, depressed the clutch with it and wedged it against the drivers seat. Now I had 2 hands free. I removed the bottom C clip but couldn't remove the pin. So I replaced the C clip and proceeded to the top C clip & pin. Fortunately that one came off fairly easily and as others have said, all you need to do is remove one pin. One last thing, make sure you have good lighting to put under there before starting the job.

10-12-2012, 04:26 PM	#415 (permalink)
Jsolo Track Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: chicago Posts: 783 Drives: '12 G37 6MT Rep Power: 14	^^You don't need to press the pedal to remove the clip. Only to remove the pin. You are right about needing to be a contortionist though. If you're a big guy, it will be difficult. __________________ G37S Sedan 6MT, Eibach swaybars, Invidia Exhaust, Weaker Clutch Pedal Spring For sale links

10-12-2012, 04:44 PM	#416 (permalink)
cruzmisl Base Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Hillsboro, OR Posts: 122 Drives: 08 G37S 6MT Rep Power: 15	Here's what I did at 11:45PM, after long bouts of swearing and bruised ribs and sore shoulders: BTW, I don't recommend anyone doing this and do not take responsibility for following my desperate stupidity. Since I couldn't get the bottom pin to go in with the pedal fully engaged, I ended up taking the top out and started with the bottom installed first. I couldn't get the top pin in when the pedal was down, so I put the spring mechanism firmly into place and slowly let go of the pedal. I realize this meant that the spring mechanism is loaded now without a top pin installed to keep it in place, but at 52lb or whatever, I figured I would put on some safety goggles and quickly slip the top pin in with my hand over the spring mechanism to keep it from popping out, and hoping it was all lined up to allow easy insertion of the pin (unlike the ******* bottom, which I couldn't line up after many attempts). I would not do this under any circumstance with the stock 300lb+ spring, and my justification for the new spring being less dangerous might be misinformed, but I was so f'n tired of dealing with it that I was prepared to live with this flying around my cockpit like the cirpin and the fuse panel nut (both of which have disappeared into oblivion within my interior). Anywho, got it in, and I'm not replacing it again. __________________ 2008 G37S - Mods: Car Freshner - Coconut Last edited by cruzmisl; 10-12-2012 at 04:54 PM.

11-18-2012, 11:16 PM	#418 (permalink)
ronn1 Base Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Los Angeles Ca Posts: 53 Drives: Nissan 350Z M6 08 Rep Power: 13	I don't get this.. I have an 08 350Z..and yes..when I first drove it, the clutch took a bit of getting used to. I stalled this mofo at first when taking off. However, I learned how to feather the clutch, using the ball of my foot. It's a piece of cake to engage once you have figured this out. So much pissing and moaning over nothing as far as I'm concerned. The STOCK clutch pedal works fine and dandy...just have to adjust to it. Woops..need to edit this.. Should read>>> Using the HEEL of my foot as as a fulcrum/pivot __________________ 08 Touring 6sp/Nismo intake/Gemini CB/FI RHFC/Tanabe Rear SB/ Nismo S Tune Springs-Shocks/Konig 9.5" with Cooper Zeon Rs-3/Osiris Tune Last edited by ronn1; 11-18-2012 at 11:54 PM.

11-18-2012, 11:34 PM	#419 (permalink)
MaDMaXX Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Oregon from England Posts: 292 Drives: 350z Rep Power: 13	Um, what part of your foot did you used to use?!?! __________________ '04.5 350Z - Very Motordyne.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
light clutch pedal?	boosted180	Engine & Drivetrain	21	06-07-2014 01:53 PM
clutch pedal issues?	xgrudgex	Engine & Drivetrain	17	01-31-2011 08:44 PM
How does your OEM clutch feel?	AlphaSnacks	Engine & Drivetrain	78	12-20-2010 11:04 AM
Knock from the clutch pedal	Oscar135	Engine & Drivetrain	34	07-27-2010 12:10 PM