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I think the only thing you didn't mention was weight reduction. i don't know how long ago it was and i forgot the name of the person who created it
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#1 (permalink) |
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I think the only thing you didn't mention was weight reduction. i don't know how long ago it was and i forgot the name of the person who created it but there was a full body carbon fiber skyline in japan that was actually over 900lbs lighter than a it's stock version. would probably cost a lot but it seems that money isn't your problem here. that should help a lot with your NA project.
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#4 (permalink) |
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LS2? really thats sooo G-word. he said titanium rods and hew wants POWER on thing i can think of is LS7 or Viper V10. Also guy you need to ask your uncle why he didn't tell you about superchargers when you asked him N/a or FI. The centrifugals have come a long way from what they were a few years ago, and the twin-screw (look up kenne bell or whipple or vortech vts series) is still the screaming torque king. That will actually make the abysmally small lowend and midrange torque numbers look better while pulling up to redline and you won't be able to tell it apart from a BIG v8.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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![]() ![]() ![]() Anyway you said you don't want to sacrifice drivability, the fact is this will suffer regardless of how you choose to make power. If you get a 50% increase in power, it's still 50% whether that's from forced induction or naturally aspirated. The car will want to leap feet at a time now rather then just rolling to a start like it did, and the fact of the matter is no matter what you do it will still be a 370Z. You can make anything faster, but overcoming the chassis design and it's short commings are entirly different. There is a reason a Porsche with very similar specifications still cost almost twice as much. (besides the name on the back) The most important thing to consider is what do you want this car for? Are you going to race it, what's the point if your not? A highly modified car will be difficult to get qualified and it will most certainly require a roll cage, although that will also help you quite a bit with the chassis problems you are sure to encounter. If it's just going to be for the street that won't matter as much, it will be fun at first but like so many people before you you'll likely get tired of it in short order. A car at that level will require constant attention to all the noises it will make, all the things there are to fail now, possibly even to just keep it on the road. Overall you will spend much less money just buying something else ans may be more satisfied with it, but it will be one bad *** Z if you decide to do it. ![]()
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#7 (permalink) |
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don't want go corvette engine I can't stand those things. I want to keep the nissan block and I not a fan of turbocharging unless you take to my bros supra I would turbocharge that thing all day man. I still have to a lot more matha nd bug finding That why I ORDERED my Nismo Z and didn't just go to a dealer and buy it. Keep the suggestion coming.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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I just dont think you really understand how it all works. esp in our cars. apart from the stuff you posted, theres nitrous and/or otherwise maybe jet turbine on the roof. (always wanted to try that. mythbusters style) |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Edit: drag car only lol
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#10 (permalink) |
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A supercharged engine can last just as long as a high strung custom engine. Racing engines for example, are usually re-built after a few races, if not after every race. If you want bullet proof reliability, buy a Camry and call it a day. FI is the best bang for the buck. Even if you blow the stock engine, a new one won't cost you $21k. Check out the GTM or Stillen supercharger if you don't want to go with turbo's. No "lag"
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#12 (permalink) |
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who me or the guy who wants to blow 21 grand for 80hp?
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#14 (permalink) | |
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