Help needed getting crank pulley off

spdylude · 10-30-2010, 04:23 PM

I could use some advice getting the crank pulley bolt off. So far I've got the fan assembly out of the engine bay so that I can fit a ~ 3 ft breaker bar on the end of my 1/2" drive wrench. I am having a friend put the car in 6th gear, set the e-brake, and then stand on the brakes. So far I haven't had any luck using this method. When I apply force to remove the bolt; I am able to rotate the end of the breaker bar probably 90 degrees but it seems like the breaker bar / wrench combo is bending and combined with the play in the transmission I am not getting anywhere. Does anyone have any pointers?

My next step is to take the whole damn radiator out so that I can hit the bolt with my 1000 ft-lb impact, but the service manual procedure implies pulling the radiator is quite the ordeal (apparently includes draining the A/C refrigerant for some reason).

Thanks for your input!

destinyZ · 10-31-2010, 08:48 AM

I havent done the NST pulley's on this car yet but I did it for my scion. I cant remember what its called that I used but it was hooked up to the air compressor and looks like a drill. lmao, I feellike an idiot but i do forget. You could try putting a strap wrench on the pulley itself and have someone hold it. Like I said I havent personally dont it on this car yet but without looking or doing it thats what I can think up. GL hope someone that has actually done the install chimes in

Removal of the radiator would be my last and finall resort :/

ZeeYouLater · 10-31-2010, 08:59 AM

The differnet coloured pulleys are only an optical adavantage...no horse power gain of course ..they reduce only a minor amount of rotary spinn up time ..moment of gyration
good luck for your conversion :-)
dont hurt your simmering :-)

spdylude · 10-31-2010, 07:52 PM

Thank you for the responses. I finally managed to get it off by pulling both air boxes out and positioning the ratchet / breaker bar against the drivers side fender and then pulling all the way over to the the passenger side fender. There was a ridiculous amount of "play" in the chain of components (tranny etc) that were acting to resist the rotation of the crank.

I now have the new crank pulley positioned on the crank shaft, but I am questioning if I have it on all the way. In other words, I currently have about 1/4" between the back of the crank pulley and the block. If I torque down the crank pulley bolt it doesn't get pulled any closer, but it just doesn't look right. It seems like it should go on further.

Does anyone have a good picture showing the correct spacing between the crank pulley and the block? There are a couple pictures in the NST pulley thread but they unfortunately do not show the spacing I am looking for.

Thanks!

spdylude · 11-03-2010, 06:50 AM

I know someone has a picture that could help me out. Any takers?

destinyZ · 11-03-2010, 09:47 AM

Ill try to remember and take a pic and measurement of my stock one to help you out.

spdylude · 11-03-2010, 07:17 PM

Thank you. I appreciate it.

destinyZ · 11-06-2010, 02:58 AM

Sorry about that I got busy and just got done working on my height which I may still adjust.

Ok so I wasnt able to take a good solid picture but I did measure it. I measured 1.5" from the inside of the pulley to the engine block, give or take 1-2 millimeters at the most.

Hope this helps!

spdylude · 11-06-2010, 06:13 AM

Perfect. Thank you.

10-30-2010, 04:23 PM	#1 (permalink)
spdylude Base Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: USA Posts: 20 Drives: 2010 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 16	Help needed getting crank pulley off I could use some advice getting the crank pulley bolt off. So far I've got the fan assembly out of the engine bay so that I can fit a ~ 3 ft breaker bar on the end of my 1/2" drive wrench. I am having a friend put the car in 6th gear, set the e-brake, and then stand on the brakes. So far I haven't had any luck using this method. When I apply force to remove the bolt; I am able to rotate the end of the breaker bar probably 90 degrees but it seems like the breaker bar / wrench combo is bending and combined with the play in the transmission I am not getting anywhere. Does anyone have any pointers? My next step is to take the whole damn radiator out so that I can hit the bolt with my 1000 ft-lb impact, but the service manual procedure implies pulling the radiator is quite the ordeal (apparently includes draining the A/C refrigerant for some reason). Thanks for your input!

10-31-2010, 08:59 AM	#3 (permalink)
ZeeYouLater Base Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Swiss Posts: 39 Drives: 370z Roadster Rep Power: 15	The differnet coloured pulleys are only an optical adavantage...no horse power gain of course ..they reduce only a minor amount of rotary spinn up time ..moment of gyration good luck for your conversion :-) dont hurt your simmering :-) __________________ ___________________________ 7AT. NAVI. 19". (Sport and Touring Package)

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10-31-2010, 08:48 AM	#2 (permalink)
destinyZ Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Guam, USA Age: 35 Posts: 415 Drives: FROM INDIANA Rep Power: 15	I havent done the NST pulley's on this car yet but I did it for my scion. I cant remember what its called that I used but it was hooked up to the air compressor and looks like a drill. lmao, I feellike an idiot but i do forget. You could try putting a strap wrench on the pulley itself and have someone hold it. Like I said I havent personally dont it on this car yet but without looking or doing it thats what I can think up. GL hope someone that has actually done the install chimes in Removal of the radiator would be my last and finall resort :/

10-31-2010, 07:52 PM	#4 (permalink)
spdylude Base Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: USA Posts: 20 Drives: 2010 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 16	Thank you for the responses. I finally managed to get it off by pulling both air boxes out and positioning the ratchet / breaker bar against the drivers side fender and then pulling all the way over to the the passenger side fender. There was a ridiculous amount of "play" in the chain of components (tranny etc) that were acting to resist the rotation of the crank. I now have the new crank pulley positioned on the crank shaft, but I am questioning if I have it on all the way. In other words, I currently have about 1/4" between the back of the crank pulley and the block. If I torque down the crank pulley bolt it doesn't get pulled any closer, but it just doesn't look right. It seems like it should go on further. Does anyone have a good picture showing the correct spacing between the crank pulley and the block? There are a couple pictures in the NST pulley thread but they unfortunately do not show the spacing I am looking for. Thanks!

11-03-2010, 06:50 AM	#5 (permalink)
spdylude Base Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: USA Posts: 20 Drives: 2010 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 16	I know someone has a picture that could help me out. Any takers?

11-03-2010, 09:47 AM	#6 (permalink)
destinyZ Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Guam, USA Age: 35 Posts: 415 Drives: FROM INDIANA Rep Power: 15	Ill try to remember and take a pic and measurement of my stock one to help you out.

11-03-2010, 07:17 PM	#7 (permalink)
spdylude Base Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: USA Posts: 20 Drives: 2010 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 16	Thank you. I appreciate it.

11-06-2010, 02:58 AM	#8 (permalink)
destinyZ Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Guam, USA Age: 35 Posts: 415 Drives: FROM INDIANA Rep Power: 15	Sorry about that I got busy and just got done working on my height which I may still adjust. Ok so I wasnt able to take a good solid picture but I did measure it. I measured 1.5" from the inside of the pulley to the engine block, give or take 1-2 millimeters at the most. Hope this helps!

11-06-2010, 06:13 AM	#9 (permalink)
spdylude Base Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: USA Posts: 20 Drives: 2010 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 16	Perfect. Thank you.