Sticky: (Official) 370Z Clutch Pressure (CSC) Failures

firulice

So I drove my Z for the first time today since my quick trip to San Diego 10 days ago when I had my clutch sticking problems. Drove great today so I guess I have a little more time before my grenade explodes lol the two times it happened to me were getting off the freeway after long drives. Fluid looks fine.

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40th-40th edition. HFC, Nismo exhaust, Stillen intakes, GTR start, UpRev

MagmaRed370z

Can a mechanically inclined person here explain in detail why the CSC fails and then goes back to normal?, then fails again (pedal to the floor) and comes back after a while? Sorry not a motorhead here.

KoolKarmaJoe

My guess, and it is a GUESS, that it happens when fluid/clutch hydraulics get really hot. I'm leaning towards changing my clutch fluid twice a year to be on the safe side due to my spirited driving style & will only use GTR Hydraulic fluid.

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"Joe"
AAM True 3" Duals / Whiteline Bars & Rear Links / Tanabe Sustec Pro / Mishimoto Oil Cooler / Michelin Pilot SS
ACT HD Pressure Plate / ACT Performance Disc / ACT Streetlite Flywheel / ZSpeed HD CSC on GTR Fluid.

jwick

There's nothing special about the GTrR fluid. Use Motul rbf600 synthetic

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...id/Brake_Fluid

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

eastwest2300

Thats what I'm using. RBF600

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Infiniti QX70 & Toyota Supra 3.0 Premium

Anifaust

Best description- they insulated only the lower portion of the tubing that leads from the Master Cylinder to the Slave. This leaves the upper area of the line open to heat sink. Unfortunately there's still a good section of non-protected tube that runs straight past your exhaust lines. Overheated/Boiling fluid + plastic parts = lose.

I am still waiting on the CSC delivery from Zspeed since they were closed all last week. Just got the tracking email today (7/13) and it should be in OKC by 4:30 Wed. That makes it about two weeks downtime now since mine acted up on 7/2 just before the holiday weekend. My tranny locked down in second gear with the shifter in neutral due to my clutch being floor pinned. I haven't heard of anyone else having this issue and the mechanic said it was probably just a fluke combined with my pressure and timing of pulling the shifter into neutral with the jenk pedal.

I'm still having him wrap the exhaust line in thermal kevlar along with the new part replacement.

eastwest2300

can you take pics of the wrap and the work you guys did, its something I might be interested in doing as well.. thanks man.

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Infiniti QX70 & Toyota Supra 3.0 Premium

KoolKarmaJoe

I agree, it was handy at time of fluid change. Still a better option than the average/no name brands of brake fluid sold at gas stations.

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"Joe"
AAM True 3" Duals / Whiteline Bars & Rear Links / Tanabe Sustec Pro / Mishimoto Oil Cooler / Michelin Pilot SS
ACT HD Pressure Plate / ACT Performance Disc / ACT Streetlite Flywheel / ZSpeed HD CSC on GTR Fluid.

Uxi

That doesn't seem to fit. It doesn't seem to matter how hard you drive it but pretty random. I was very mild with mine and only just out of warranty when it happened. I've been a little harder on it since break-in period ended, but really rather mild compared to how often I would redline my old Honda (since I don't want a reckless driving ticket ).

JARblue

My understanding is that as the fluid gets dirty, the dirt particles get past the seals on the CMC and/or CSC, allowing air pockets into the clutch system. This is the reason that some people just get a half dead pedal instead of full on failure. Once the seals deteriorate enough, you get stranded. This is also the reason you need to change both the CMC and the CSC at the same time because dirty fluid from the old part can compromise the new part if you just replace one. I also suspect hot fluid will aid the fluid's ability to get past the seals as the fluid is thinner.

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