Transmission Cooler
 

thought i would open a thread for us 7at people that are considering installing an automatic transmission cooler.

some of the questions that i have are:

is this a necessary modification? do our 7at get too hot?

what is a good kit to go with?

would like to see a diy write up w/ pics

p.s.
i used seach and went through 3 pages with little to no results

I have not heard of any issues with the 7AT. No one has really pushed one far enough to its breaking point that we know of.

My guess is you probably only need to consider adding a cooler if you track your car and/or go FI.

It can't hurt

Depends really on what your plans are for your car. Staying N/A or going F/I? If going F/I, I'd look into a cooler, depending on how much HP/TQ you're aiming for.

From what I've been reading, the 7/AT is pretty darn tough.

but not needed if not going FI and the more things you put on the more things that can go wrong.

The new M56 infiniti with 400 hp and tq has the same tranny and is fine.

might overcool it if its not necessary =\. There is an optimal temperature for oil.

If you still route it through the radiator, the oil will always be "warm" by the coolant.

adding a tranny oil cooler is always a plus on an automatic car modified, driven hard, or not. the reduction in heat extends the life of the transmission seals, clutches, and reduce the stress on the torque convertor and other metal parts. the springs stay stiff longer, and everything just has an easier time doing it's job. Thats why almost any truck you buy with an automatic and a tow package is factory equipped with a large transmission cooler. The cost just isn't justified with most cars because the lifespan of the transmission is figured to be long enough anyway (and nismo would probably want like 800 bucks for one anyway).

A cooler and a valvebody would be the first two things i would have done if i had the automatic, well after the oil cooler.

I thought I would bring this thread back to life, Ive been thinking on gitting a tranny cooler for some time now, Any updates to this? Is it worth getting one? or save my $$ for other mods, Thanks:tiphat:

all I can say is if you are pushing it hard on the track
the Oil cooler is a MUST
not only you wil have better shift time , but also less lag time when the tranny actualy lock the gear in.
but also make sure you have a thermostatic plate similar to every engine oil cooler setup.
you dont want to run the tranny with a way too cold tranny fluild.
the 7AT generate a lot of heat due to the torque convecter

I'm assuming you must make your own taps for feed/return lines on the tranny cooler? And install a pump, considering the unit is a "sealed" transmission, there are no pre-made connection points correct?

The 7at does have a factory oil cooler that is within the coolant radiator. You can use those line. No need to drill and tap new connection

Ah, interesting. Was not aware of this. Gotta find out where those hoses are routed then next time its on jacks.

:tiphat:

the tranny fluid goes on the driver side of the coolant radiator.

Ok I need to know I live in TN, and the winers can get cold. Would this be over kill for a Street car with a occasional track day???

GTM Motorsports*::*AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION*::*GTM HD TRANSMISSION COOLER FOR VQ

I honestly recommend you to also get a thermostatic plate. it will help in cooler temps !

Ok ill call GTM to get more info thanks.

Add one of these along with a valve actuator with a switch then you can turn it on or off

Setrab Thermostatic Fan Switches - Thermostatic Switches - Setrab Oil Coolers

http://www.solenoidvalvesuk.co/12voltsolenoidvalves.asp

One that can handle the heat and pressure

damn i killed this thing off for 3 years? Yeah i've seen the coolers from GTM, If you wanna kill to birds with one stone their new radiator is supposed to have a bigger more efficent oil cooler in it too, and it is certainly big enough to cool a monster.

This is what I was looking for http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...installed.html WStar did a thread a wile back about his AT Cooler install. Lot of good stuff in here! Using it to do mine.. :tiphat:

Thanks WSTAR :tiphat:

I just ordered the transmission cooler from Stillen today!
I dont know if its necessary for an Oil Cooling kit unless you take it to the tracks.
I push the car once in a while, but not to the point where the oil goes pass 240 on the gauge :)
Can't wait to install it!

You will find that the lines they provide are bigger than the hard lines you will connect to. Unless you bought the expensive kit that runs all the way back to the trans and ties in with banjo bolts.

Best way to connect with no leaks id to buy a $15.00 flare tool and flare the end of the hard line before sliding your provided lines and hose clamp.

PM me when your ready to do it if you have any questions. I'll try to find it but i did fine a brass step down that took the soft line and sized it down to match the hard line. I just used a small piece of smaller hose and connected it all. No leaks.

I'll post the diameter sizes in a second. I have them somewhere so your not wasting time and money.

Take a piece of sheet metal and make a block off plate for daily driving. Magen is right on, you run the fluid to cool and your destroy the trans. I have 1 small louver opening on mine. I only take the plate off when i AutoX and it's not that often.

Yep, on WSTAR thread the hard line on the car that kit connects to is 5/16, if you use the 3/8 with out flaring the end of the hard line you will have leaks. $450.00 to change your trans fluid, and it take hours.

Hope this helps!
.

The best way to do it is install a temp gauge & find out what type of heat you are generating for your driving style/application & install the proper size cooler based on the BTU load.

$.02

Ok so I bought a 12 row cooling unit but I messed up and only ordered the radiator part without any hoses or bolts or anything at all and was wondering if someone knew where I can purchase that? Post a link if you do is greatly appreciate it! I'm just looking for the lines and all the needed parts to run the install. Thanks for your time guys

Before spending tons of money on a trans cooler setup kit. Try the DIY approach.

Use the Trucool SR4588 Transmission cooler. Its more than sufficient to meet the cooling needs of the RE7RO1A 7spd auto.

The 7AT should have a tube warmer that is located in the radiator, probably in the bottom. This is just to warm the fluid in colder climate to bring it to a more viscous level.

And I'm assuming there is an Auxiliary cooler as well, probably sandwiched between the radiator and condensor.

If there is or is not an auxiliary cooler, I would still highly recommend running the SR4588 cooler up front in direct path of air flow if possible when mounting.

Make sure there is atleast an inch gap from where mount the external trans cooler to the surface behind the cooler such as the condensor. This will allow ample air flow through the cooler and keep it working efficiently.

The low pressure drop coolers such as the Trucool SR4588 are designed to flow only through the upper portion of the flues until the fluid is warmer. (SUPPOSEDLY...lol)

You can always run a thermostatic bypass, but unless you live in temps that see 35deg and below often, it shouldn't be needed.

Other than that, if you live in extreme cold climates, don't drive like an a$$hole until everything is at operating temp. :)

Im thinking of getting a Setrab 25 row Series 6 oil cooler for my trans.

Will be shooting for 500 whp on an Automatic.

B&M Hi-Tek SuperCoolers with thermostatic controlled Fans 70298

http://www.the370z.com/members/zat_z...m-70298-ml.jpg

Wil this be good for a 500whp Automatic?

How do we add a thermostatic plate for a tranny cooler? All thermostatic plates for our car are made for engine oil filter mount...

here you go: In-line thermostat.

yes I saw found one of those! Also found another one, like Earl's brand.

Thank ya.

Curious though, will tube and hole size affect flow of tranny fluids?
The Earl's brand is 10an, while the derale (mixed reviews) is 8an (1/2inch).

??

Interesting

The 501ERL? Yea, that's a sexy one. I like the option of a sensor port in it, that it is rebuildable, and one would conclude that larger inlet/outlets would dictate larger passageways. That said I think the tranny lines are only 3/8th" and 5/16th". 5/8th" (10AN) is a big size jump. My biggest question is the return flow characteristics on both of them when the thermostat is closed, or if it even matters.

I've used Derale products a lot, all three of my heat exchanges are made by them. Never had an issue with them and they have done their job; that of course does not mean they are perfect, just an opinion. I have never used their (derale's) in-line thermostat. I have read the same bad reviews. I think with all bad reviews you have to try to look at it from all angles. The derale unit is a good deal cheaper then the alternatives meaning they most likely sell a crap ton more, which means more statistical odds of bad things happening. Again, opinion. I do like that Earl unit, and I've never had an issue with their fittings.

I know the earl's keep it 10% open when closed fully if that's what you mean. So the derale works just as well then for daily? coolio.

What is your setup look like?
I was thinkin...
Tranny -> stock trannycooler -> derale *

* -> TrannyCooler2 -> derale -> tranny (this route when opening)

* -> tranny (when closed, theoretically, even though it is partially open)


This way I'malways measuring fluid after stock tranny cooler and if it's too hot then go through second step down.


I kind of wanted to originally do a 3line thermostatic setup, but I couldnot find such a thing that exists, a 3line thermo with characteristics set up for automobile fluids.

Tranny -> 3line Thermo *

* -> stock tranny cooler -> T line -> tranny (closed)
* -> aftermarket tranny cooler -> T line -> tranny (open)

How do you have yours setup?

Definitely NO

Not designed for a transmission oil cooler

But go ahead and do it and let us know how it works out :rofl2:

Derale state both the 25719 and the 25011 can be used for transmissions. Could you share your insider information?


I do not have a in-line thermostat on my transmission lines. It goes from tranny -> 24 row cooler -> OEM heat exchanger -> tranny. The OEM is runs inline with the water heat exchanger, so it keeps the tranny fluid temps around 185°-190°F. The theory is to use the OEM as a regulator for fluid temp control/management. If I used an in-line I would go the route you sound like you are planning. Most would complain that I am just negating the effects of the aftermarket cooler but since it's not really ideal to have ATF cooler then 175°F I think it does just fine for my needs.

Real world experience with in stand alone inline thermostats and their failures and limitations.

I'll never use a stand alone inline thermostat again as they are not reliable enough.

Yep, any chance of cutting off the flow to your AT is going to be sudden death. You can get coolers that auto regulate. they have different size tubes within the cooler which allow more fluid to to flow through more passages within the cooler, thus providing more cooling as the fluid heats up & thins out. B&M comes to mind for some reason :cool:

As Zat says, Do not put an inline thermostat on you AT.

Hm interesting, but the idea is that it wouldn't ever block any actual flow? if it got stuck open it's always flow to the aftermarket and if got stock closed always through the stock cooler and back to tranny (how i would plan to set it up)?

And the blocking pin piece that moves wouldn't ever full block would it? If it ever got stuck in the middle wouldn't it get stuck in half/half or some other combination such as that adding up to 100%flow rate (considering the way it is designed?)

The ONLY ways I could see it being detrimental to the AT is if the pin somehow came out too far, came all the way out, or it got jammed in way too far and blocked both routes

Could you please share which product you specifically used on which which specific make and models of cars and which years and some of the failures and limitations you speak of?

As much as I trust someone on the internet by their general words, well frankly, it is a bit difficult, too considering the lack of specificity in your posts.

Please don't take that personally.