Hey ScoobieZ, my mistake on the stoppage of flow as I was thinking more of the lines of a standard thermostat. But I still would not want to rely on a spring to regulate the flow to the cooler. I prefer the cooler to do the regulating. Also you should really install a temp sensor so you know what type of temps you are generating. This will give you an idea of what size cooler you need as well as if the cooler you installed in doing a good enough job.

$.02 ;)

Nope, that's just too much work to detail the failure. The in-line oil thermostat is long gone, dissected and once the issue was discovered; thrown out.

I wont use those on my vehicles, nor do I recommend them. It's your choice to accept my words of wisdom. After all, its your car and your repair bill, if things go wrong.

Please don't take it personally, but I don't have to prove a damn thing except to myself lol

... okay then don't expect anyone to take you seriously if you're not going to even provide which product you used on which car. If you can't provide even that much information then why are you here spreading your information not backed by anything?

This leads me to believe that:
1) you're embarassed because you didn't install something correctly or didn't know how it worked
2) you're embarassed you bought a 20 dollar stat and it did not work as you expected
Or
3) you're completely full of ****.

So if you're not going to actually add anything of value to our discussion other than general threats please leave. Sad that a base member has to tell a "premium" member this.

Real truth is that as a non-premium member, I wont really support you because you don't support the forum.

My intelligential property is mine and mine alone. I share with people, shops and manufacturers that can make a difference and that are local.

I don't really care if you like it or not ........ lol

Take my advice or don't. ...... DILLIGAF?

Case closed ....... support the forum!

Once again, sad. Very sad. Anyone can pay money to have a star by your name, but to actually contribute is a whole different story.

Anyways, if anyone else has a some beneficial or helpful information please don't let zat_zuma kill this thread flow as I believe we're touching on some important information here.

Zat_Zum, that's horrible. If you had a in-line thermostat failure of that magnitude I hope you filled a warranty claim. As ScoobieZ said flow should be constant to the transmission under all situation with a in-line thermostat (i mean, you can just google the diagrams), by design, unless some type of catastrophic failure happened; which would be either a manufacturing defect (warranty) or user error (instillation error, or foreign debris from transmission blocking thermostat/passageways/damaging thermostat).

I do think that regardless of the whats and whys the point being that failure is an option with these (as anything) should be considered. It gives an other check to the Earl's unit for the three sensor inputs; one of which could be exit pressure for those that wanted to know their tranny is always getting flow.

ROFL ..... things we've done and sometimes failed on, don't carry warranties.
Sometimes we have to design a better mousetrap and usually the best solution is to keep it simple and functional. You may have all the gauges and kill switches in the world but its not always the best solution.

ScoobieZ: I use to post my discoveries and innovations, which vendors sell to you now, in the early years and worked with some vendors and shops. Still work with a few shops but in a limited capacity now. What I found was the more info I posted, the more questions I would receive on a daily basis and members would treat me as their personal library. It was 20 PM's a day, at its peak. So I removed most of my posts and it stopped most of the PM's.

For the most part the non-members were the rudest and most demanding and wanted everything for free, so they can berate shops for a deal or cheaper parts and demand/expect you to comply to their demands.

The way the 350Z forum is now and just before it was sold. Support the370Z Forum or you will lose it. I'm already checked out lol..... I'm retired

Zat

I've been running a Mishimoto heavy duty trans cooler inline with my OE radiator for the last three years. All appears to be good since the install. I haven't been using a thermostat , fyi.

Cheers

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a403de43b6.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Use the Trucool 40k, works great for my RE5R05A. Plus it handles toting around 5200lbs of truck.

I know its on a truck, but the principal is still the same. This is a cheap and effective option.

LPD47391 (Trucool 40k) 8.5"x22.75"x1.25" (height x length x thickness)

http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o...psrom4by3d.jpg

http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps5hetg53q.jpg

SO I'll jump in here. I'm tracking my G37 and the AT doesn't like the extra heat at all. I get heavy shifts after about 3 laps. I'm jumping between swapping the fluid for synthetic or adding a cooler. Or both actually. But I also read that the trans is a sealed system and should only be drained and filled, not flushed. Too many choices.

A good trans cooler option that is a low pressure drop bar and plate style would be the Trucool SR4588.

Fluids you'd want to use Nissan Matic-S or compatible. Such as Castrol Transmax Full synthetic multivehicle. Staying on top of your service intervals is equally important, and further compounded on how you drive the vehicle.

For the RE5R05A and RE7R01A/B there are shift kits available. Level 10 offers valve body upgrades for both with upgraded solenoids, their own shift kit, and revisions to parts that are prone to failure. SONNAX is also provides valvebody upgrades and replacement parts for the RE5R05A, not sure of the RE7 though.

Transgo offers shift kit for the RE5R05A as well. (not the RE7)

The above coupled with a competent tuner who can adjust your expected torque values in Uprev (not sure with EcuTek), your 5spd or 7spd should handle whatever you throw at it for many years, especially being naturally aspirated.

Be mindful of fluid temp before going beating the piss out of the vehicle under WOT as well.

If you want to further upgrade your transmission, Level 10 has a full build options where they use the aformentioned valvebody upgrade, but also include Borg Warner clutch packs (frictions), +1 extra frictions in the Input and Direct drums for better holding capacity, modified/enlarged fluid pump, cryo treated output shaft option, etc etc. (for the RE5R05A, the RE7 gets similar upgrades). Apparently the owner of Level 10 (Pat) is good friends with whoever manages the clutch/friction division of Borg Warner.

You could go as far as to WPC treating or REM finishing the planetary gear sets, shaft splines too if you wanted.

Albeit, no transmission tuning short of what uprev/ecuteck allows. I guess you could try for PCS-2000 Powertrain control systems standalone and purchase their harness with software to try it out.

Or wait and see if HPtuners provides support for either transmission (doubtful, but hopeful).

Lastly, once Circle D Specialties finishes my converter for my Titan, they may be willing to start production with the Re5r05a converters tailored to your build. I imagine if someone sent in a 7spd RE7 factory stock converter to build they would do so. They are building a billet cnc stator for mine that is one off. But will allow a basis to start from. Its another option over Level 10 and Edge.

So yeah, get a transmission cooler.

To revive this thread,

Has anyone used the mishimoto trans cooler with the electric fan?

https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...it-p-4126.html

I'd be concerned about over-cooling with that if not a dedicated track car.

The torque converter doesn't start its lock up until 122*. I'm using a Hayden 676 which is equivalent to the lowest duty offering on Z1's site. On the street temps coming to it from the transmission are very close and sometimes below 122*!!

I'm running 28-row trans cooler and 6" fan on its back.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCqLlq7H...d=ny48ftddq9hb

So my mishimoto transmission cooler with the electric fan came in. Where do you guys recommend tapping into to turn on the fan? I was thinking the radiator fan's wire for signal since the fan is not needed to be on when car is running; as what the OEM fan controller does.