There's plenty of that information, both in my thread and numerous others, if you take the time to search (and read).. Figure roughly a 20-25 degree reduction in most conditions with a standard sized cooler

without the oil cooler I'm seeing anywhere between 220-240+ even though its no hotter than 81 degrees outside. Furthermore I've burned about 1.5 quarts of Nissan Ester oil in the past 3000 miles. A few days ago I had her up to a short burst of 140+mph and I almost hit limp mode, just a small tick short. I agree you can feel the power loss as oil temps increase.

I ordered GTM's 25 row oil cooler yesterday, Sam called me earlier today and told me they were out of brackets so once that arrives in a few days they'll send it out so I'm guessing 2 weeks before it arrives. I'll be running the oil cooler with Motul 300V Power Racing. The internet moguls seem to be split on this oil, some say is runs cleaner, their exhaust tips showed no soot and 3000 miles later the oil was still clean. Others say that it shouldn't be used in anything not a race car. Motul says it's great for high reving engines and it's ester based so I think it'll go well.

I'm going to try to get to the dyno as soon as I get my LTH's and I drive around a bit to let the ecu reset. I think Tony shipped out #12 this week and I'm #14, once those babies are on we'll see how she does. Right now she's all stock minus test pipes and body work.

finally got my redline in so the cooler will be going back on friday and then off to the dyno saturday! i'll post up a new thread somewhere with my results.

I spoke to a dude from Z1 motorsports via email and he said they are no longer offering Aeroquip socketless hoses because they had someone with a hose blown off and it caused an engine failure. Now I don't know the details such as how he had them attached, whether it be zip ties or worm clamps. But who makes a good oil cooler kit whose hoses won't blow off or cause a leak? It seems like there are quite a few failures on this forum.

What company can you trust? I don't want an engine failure and I'm sure nobody else does as well.

i purchased the gtm competion one. I know some people had issues with gtm's hoses blowing out but if i remeber correctly gtm pulled them off the market and got better hoses. So for as trust wise, I have full trust in SAM at GTM. He is a great guy and doesn't try to sell you stuff you don't need, and also tells you what he honestly thinks. I know the one guy that had the gtm oil cooler in his car that ruptured the hose, GTM paid for the Tow, gave him the money back for the Oil, and I think offered him new hoses. IMO thats a stand up company that cares about customer satisfaction.
Frank

Yeah, I read all about how Sam backed his product. But that guy was lucky he had no engine damage because of the lost oil. My real worry is if an engine failure did occur, who would pay to get it fixed? I doubt GTM or the company who made the oil cooler kit would. I'm afraid that you would be out of luck and have to pay for it yourself.

It makes me a little skeptical, that's all. Not with GTM, but oil cooler kits overall. I need one to drive my Nismo aggressively but want one that won't fall apart either.

well if thats the case, don't buy one, make your own. Go read Modshack's DIY threads and he will give you play by play on how to do it. Any questions you have about doing I am sure he will be more then glade to answer, he seems to be a huge fan of people doing there own maintenance. Also I have yet to see a Serious post of someone needing help and he turned them away.

So these are the only options you have, buy one, make one, or don't get one lol. I think the best part about making one is you know what you have into it. what i mean is you know the quality of the product, and if it breaks you only have your self to blame. Good luck with what ever decision you make. If you buy one just stick to a rep-able company who has good products and customer service.
Frank

I have not read through the entire thread, but why not the Nismo oil cooler??

I could be wrong happens more often then I like but on another forum I think one of those had hose failures also. I guess the point is when you mass produce something, sometimes you don't get the perfectly round apple but instead you get the oval one, or the one with the worm in the middle. Parts fail, even new ones, any time you buy aftermarket parts you sometimes take the risk of something going bad. All you can do is do some research on companies and people who have the mod and try to lower the odd of it happening to you.
Frank

Maybe this will help sum it up. GTM's oil cooler setup had faulty lines, of course they stepped up and addressed the issue. I just installed their oil cooler last week, sorry I haven't had a chance to update my thread with pictures hopefully this weekend. The new lines are made by the same manufacturer as the core, namely Setrab. All I can say is that when I unpacked everything the lines are the first thing I went after and they are DIESEL! They will not explode, the workmanship and quality of the piece is 10/10. This leads me to believe that any subsequent explosion in an application such as mine would be by faulty install.

Get a cooler, the Z needs it, after getting the big GTM cooler I haven't seen 220 :). You're lines won't explode and it goes a long way toward maintaining engine life.

I might be wrong, but I think it's too small and VERY expensive. Remember not even the Nismo Z's get a cooler, get a vendor like Stillen or GTM, I think it's a bigger cooling core and costs less.

Bigger isn't always better. You can over-cool your car and get sludge build up if you cooler is too big for your climate.

Chris from Failsafeperformance in tulsa and i pieced together a great oil cooler kit. I went out to the track the other weekend and put in four hard twenty minute sesions and I have had my cooler for almost two months. I am sure he could price out the same kit. Mine has not had any problems or leaks and I have the bumper off all the time and as we are changing things. Like ModShack kit, Chris could get you straightened out with something similar that is great for the money.

do you know what temperatures oil tends to sludge up at. I know manufactures and blends vary but rough temp for most types.

I have to say after GTM sent the new lines, I have not had an issue since. In fact, going up and down the Dragon .. beating her hard in 2nd and 3rd most of the way .. I barely got above 225. Granted, when I was running the ambient temp was in the high 80's.

ok i'm reclaiming my thread, within 200miles of the failure it seemed i had dodged the bullet. That was until the intake valve timing stopped working. turns out there is a little screen that is in the supply line to the cam sprocket and it was plugged solid. they cleaned it out and replaced the sprockets and within 50 miles of the dealership the car started making a horrible banging noise like a loud rumble. I suspected a transmission problem but when i went in to replace the aftermarket flywheel for stock i found some thing even better. there is over an 1/8 of an inch of crankshaft end play on my motor the thrust bearing must be almost completely gone.

What caused this problem in the first place and can it happen to someone else?

Did this happen before or after your oil cooler leaked?

I am not positive. But I can look into it.

OP's oil lines exploded. Oil leaked out. Caused bearing/engine failure. Obviously it happened after the fact.

No, what I meant was what caused the screen on the intake cam to become plugged or blocked solid? By what?

the metal from the bearing drops into the pan and gets circulated through the engine by the pump after plugging the filter and causing it to into bypass the metal then plugged up the screens. it took 200 miles for the thrust bearing to eat away into nothing ness

2.3mm of end play in the crank it will be getting replaced next week with a new shortblock if the heads aren't damaged

reported ^

http://images47.fotki.com/v1462/phot...spamboy-vi.jpg

this would have never happened if you had an oil pressure gauge ;)

Thats what the little light on your dash tells you,low oil pressure.

Why did the damage continue to happen after everything else was fixed?

if you scour a bearing it will not fix itself and just dies at a much faster rate than it normally would hence blown cooler damaged the smoth surface of the bearing, bearing degrades and produce little metal pieces, pieces eat bearing further, rinse and repeat.

you are aware by the time this light comes on your motor is basicly toast anyways OR you will always have that little thought in the back of your mind.... "i wonder if this leak caused any damage".

:iagree:

If you have a catastrophic failure like an oil cooler line coming loose, how much time will it take for a noticeable oil pressure drop on a gauge versus the light?

On my NSX the oil pressure varied quite a bit based on engine RPM and VTEC engaged.

On a gauge, it will be instantaneous.

I assume you have a solution for that?? Do you offer an easy to install oil pressure gauge kit for our cars? If so I'm interested.

So, did you get the new shortblock installed?

Did tear apart the bad shortblock and take a look at the bearings?

Did you reinstall the possibly contaminated (with metal shavings) GTM oil cooler on the new engine?

the feed line on the cooler blew off so it never saw a single shaving you pop that line and bam no oil pressure right away so it isn't an issue of guage versus light here one second you have pressure the next it is just getting pumped straight out the side of the motor and will not reach ANY of the engine. Yeah the short block has been done already and (what was left of ) the thrust bearing was lying in the oil pan.

So the big question is... who had to fork out the bucks for the replacement short block & installation?

I do have a solution. We make a oil adapter plate that fits right in between your block and oil filter. This provides up to 4 ports so you can mount a temp sensor and oil pressure sensor.

you will need a M20x1.5 plate. here is a link

Oil filter adaptor plate-Sandwich adaptor Plate -Prosport Gauges

and our premium series gauges have a built in peak/warning so you dont have to constantly look at oil pressure. It will warn you and beep when you fall to low.

i am not sure if that is helpful since most oil cooler install are through the oil filter hole

I agree, for an oil cooler install you already need an adapter plate. I don't think you can put one adapter plate on top of another...

It would be nice if Prosport can offer a thermostatic adapter plate with connections for oil lines for the cooler and an oil pressure sensor port! Ryan, I'll PM you my address so you can send me a check for this great idea... :tup:

BUT WE DO! :) we offer our oil cooler kits with built in thermo stats and two port sensor holes.

Follow this link now :p Oil Cooler - Prosport Aluminum Oil cooler with built in thermostat

On a side note. i dont see it affecting anything if you were to put out adapter plate on with another oil cooler. The plate itself is only 2 inches thick and oil flows right through it.... Idk we havent tested this yet.

And I thought I had an original idea :icon17: Nice, I'll contact you about outside of this thread.