This looks exactly how my GTM hoses looked after it blew as well. When I last spoke to Sam, he said they would be reviewing their kit with the idea of making it into a "true" kit by providing installation instructions. I would assume that would include reviewing the lines as well. I am still awaiting the new GTM lines as well. They received my old lines on the 31st of March, and am assuming they are taking their time to get a hold of some new lines. I also heard that they might switch from the 45 degree fitting to 90 degree for all sides. I guess I will just have to continue to wait and see.

Hope they get you back on the road.

I will be purchasing the AE Performance cooler even though it's a GRIP.

ive a diy modshack cooler with the push on fittings since early October ive done a 100 miles on the track and almost 5k miles later and it's still going strong

Yeah, tell me about it, I was upset, it was 88-89 degrees outside temp and stop and go traffic, not revving past 4500 got me to 240/250 :mad:

LOL Man I havent been on this site for while but I logged on just to see if FI began production on their header since I am on the group buy, BUT DAMN! WOW I really hope all of *** hats on here are starting see that I didn't modify the hoses since happened to THREE, 3, tres people now!?!?! ME, the OP of this thread, AND Tipz. Well for one, I am happy Ill be getting my FI LTH soon, and for two I am shocked, no wait I am not shocked.

So background story of these pictures I am about to post. Well as a lot of people know I was the 2nd person (1st with GTM kit) to have the lines basically explode. I think Travisjb was the first? Anyway I was accused by quite a few people on this that I modded my lines. I didn't and was called a liar. SO I sold my kit to another member on this site who had the same issue that I did. He posted a thread saying the same thing I did then people attacked him for installation and me for not answering up but by that time I was pretty much done for even logging onto this site or checking it for that matter until FI began production of their LTH. SO I was accused of shortening the line I sold that member, which I did not, and he sent me some pictures showing I did not. Here they are:
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/v...Z/DSC_0037.jpg
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/v...Z/DSC_0038.jpg
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/v...Z/DSC_0039.jpg

So I just wanted to thank everyone for all the BS. After all, what can be expected from a forum! :tiphat: OH and LOL at Nissan's cheap factory paint. I swear with all the small rock chips I am gonna have to get it re-painted before I get rid of it, ah how the Z is jst a money pit even after I decided not to put any more money into it. I should have gotten a mail order bride instead.:tup:

I'm still a little worried about the engine. after looking through the FSM i found out that all of our oil flows through the filter/cooler BEFORE lubricating the engine, which is what i thought but i wasn't sure. So if you blow a fitting on the oil cooler NO oil pressure will be in the engine. The only thing that may have saved it was it being cold enough that the cooler was still in bypass and the slight resistance of the -8 an fitting may have made some of the oil go through the bypass in the plate and reach the engine.

I talked with Sam for a minute before going to work and GTM is willing to rectify the situation just have to sit down and hash it all out. I will be keeping the kit but I am going to look into getting some hard-line and fittings for most of it and seeing if i can get some nice 3000psi high temp hydraulic line for a flexible section before going into the sandwich plate with crimped ends so i never have to worry about this crap ever again.

So you are going to go with a local shop to make the lines for you, or is Sam going to get some new lines?

It seems that GTM needs a new manufacturer for their cooler lines, I'll be getting one as soon as my tax return check comes in, if they don't revamp their cooler lines by then I'll be forced to pay more and go with Stillen.

Yeah unless they resolve these problems with the hoses il have to look for stillen or a other company

yeah i love the thermostatic plate and the setrab core but the lines are crap.

As for my new lines, going to be getting an industrial diesel mechanic friend of mine to assemble my new extremely super "this crap is never happening again" overkill to the max lines made form Gates G2XH 2 wire stainless braided high pressure high temperature hydraulic line rated for temps over 300 degrees and pressures over 4000psi, people are usually maimed or killed when one of these babies goes, assembled with Gates Megacrimp fittings. If you plan on replacing your cooler lines with the same you will need to have a hydraulics shop equipped with at least an 8-ton hydraulic crimper assemble these badass MF'rs

part number for the hose 8g2xh part number for the fittings 8g-8fjx90s I wish an oil cooler kit came with these guys in the first place

I agree. Thanks for the info. I've been waiting since the 31st of March on the "new lines" from GTM and apparently they still have not even made the new ones. It is my assumption that they are doing their "due diligence" and actually looking for a new manufacture for the lines - but again that is just my assumption as to why it would take so long to get new lines in the mail.

Thus, time to find a Hydraulic shop here in Tampa.

The day I was going to buy an oil cooler was the day I saw another post with exploed lines. I am going to take a chill pill and let people rack up 20k in miles on a new set before I buy. I dont feel the need for it until I go turbo so not a big prob for me.

Cmon guys, just build your own kit like Modshack and myself did. Neither had problems. I opted for the Setrab core and facing the fittings up while he saved a few extra bucks.

Pre-mfg braided hoses that rub and cut through everything and seem to like to break, or badass Aeroquip Socketless hose that works great?

I think I have heard of one person having problems with an Aeroquip hose but it seemed isolated and might have just been a slack issue.

Yes, maybe this brand of hoses is having issues, but it's not GTM's doing (so long as everything is handled accordingly). Don't let something like this make you sway away from a cooler alltogether.

I am going to build a DIY kit but will probably get lines made at a hydraulic shop just to be safe... granted I am confident I could assemble the hoses correctly.

:iagree:.... Careful assembly is the Key. Unfortunately it seems that even buying a commercial kit and having it "professionally" installed does not guarantee this. Car and Driver reported this month that they had problems with the expensive, dealer installed Nissan Motorsports cooler and had to replace some hose ends. If you want to control the quality, choose the parts you want/need, and save $$ to boot, then roll your own. Check the DIY.

Sam from GTM just replied. They are taking their time with the hoses before he mails them back to me. I will just have to wait another week to get my lines.

Just to give you guys a quick update

All our lines are order pre-made and from a Russell performance distributor, these lines are supposed to be tested up to 300 psi before us getting them. We had done our own testing in the shop here and pressurized the hoses up to 175 psi for over 6 hours and we could not duplicate the failure. After taking some of the hoses apart we have discover that we might be getting some miss-matched parts between the socket and the nipple. which could be the cause of failure.

Also we have sent a couple of samples hoses to third party for further inspection, this company specialized in testing and certifying hydraulic hoses for the aerospace industry.

Mean while, we will not be shipping any oil cooler hoses from our current supplier. Not only that, we have completely switch supplier and all our hoses and fitting will be supplied by setrab themselves, so the whole oil cooler kit and it components comes from one supplier.

For our customer that are waiting on oil lines, we should be seeing those line sometime next week. Now for the customers that had already installed our kit and have no problem at this point but like to switch the oil lines for their peace of mind, we will be more then happy to do so at no cost to you .

We truly apologize for any inconvenience we may caused .

Sam

Nice to see a company stepping up to the plate and fixing the issue!

Thanks Sam! We appreciate it.

Thanks for the good work Sam! :tiphat:

http://www.the370z.com/members/1slow...9-dsc00297.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/1slow...0-dsc00298.jpg

Now these are some fookin burst proof lines went to the napa got the lines and fittings and then he assembled them for me for free fittings are $14 dollars each and the line is $6.75 a foot

edit oh and the inside of the collar nut piece thing of the fitting that blew doesn't even have the anodizing worn off the teeth so i doubt it was grabbing the jacket with too much force

Yeah, they look seriously heavy duty.

Sam called me at home to imform me what was going on with the lines, and that the new lines that he is having made up will take car of the issues.
I aprectiated his phone call. for now i have peace of mind.
He is a vvery good friend and a runs a shop that stands up for its products and workmenship.

Thank you for the update SAM. Class act indeed.

Oh I'm sure GTM will be getting this whole mess sorted out i just needed new lines NOW and i figured while i'm at it i might as well get the best of the best, almost guaranteed never to fail, could probably use them as a torque link, lines while i was fixing it so i won't have to worry about the freak of nature that is an A/N line failure now matter how old the kit gets(well i know i may have a problem like 50+ years down the road but I probablly won't be able to drive by then).

I agree with the statement of needing them NOW. LOL My Z has been up on jack stands since the 9th of March. Granted, I had some "difficulties" getting the old lines to Sam (he received them on the 31st of March). I am itching to get her running again and go for a ride!

Your one lucky dude, being you were not driving 10/10th's at the track or bascially had this happen to you in an area where there is no cell service to get the car towed back home. Look at it this way better it happened when it did rather then in another situation. Still loosing oil on the road an greasing up the tires on the road is not something I would want someone else to experience. Had this happen to my datsun 510 and bascially wrote it off after that.

got my reimbursement from Sam at GTM today for my tow and oil and stuff proving once again that GTM is an A class place that is there for their customers and stands behind their product. Big thanks to GTM and i wish them the best. I will definitely continue to business with them in the future.

I gotta say that's pretty cool of them to pay for your tow and oil.

:iagree: GTM is a class act, definitely.

It's been almost 2 weeks since the re-install with the new GTM oil lines. No issues thus far. Going to check for leaks this weekend but I do not expect to find any.

I second that statement! It needs a cooler to run at 100% performance. The ECU starts cutting power well before the 260 rev limiter kicks in.

That's got nothing to do with your oil temps

:iagree:

I should clarify myself here. It's not just air temps that are triggering this because I've had it happen on many occasions when the air temp outside wasn't hot, but was actually was cool. If you're running it hard long enough, keeping the revs up and the oil temp gets up past 220 more closer to 240-250, you will feel a power loss as the ECU cuts back the HP, especially in the lower RPM's, it's a dog. A regional rep at Nissan discussed this with me. The power comes back way up past 5K but it still isn't all there. This isn't just specific to the 370z either. I have friends with late model cars that are also very temperature sensitive and even the magazines have commented at times on modern cars pulling power back as they get hot. They ECU is attempting to protect the engine when the internal temps are getting high, since it knows there is more stress on everything. Manufacturers want to prevent failure and of course not have to spend $$ to fix things. Though if Nissan had been smart they would have just put coolers in all the 370z's to help with all the heat this motor creates. But not that many owners will ever get the temps up that high so they figured it's not worth the money.

And of course this isn't the only reason the power drops. I know the basics about how hot air effects combustion and that cooler are creates a denser burn putting more oxygen into the cylinder when it explodes. So yes, there will be a loss of power when the air gets hotter and hotter which happens even if the external air is cool since it has to travel through the intakes, manifold etc. And since the engine is getting hot inside the air will get hotter as it passes through and arrives in the cylinder to be burned. So of course all engines, even carbureted, which I've had many, will have some power loss when everything starts getting hot. And in carbureted motors you'll get detonation if it gets too hot and can blow stuff up easier because you don't have an ECU to say hold up buddy you're about to do some damage. But all this just happens to be compounded with modern days cars whose temps rise fast when they are smaller engines revving higher to create power more efficiently, especially if they are forced induction. So the Z is suffering from both normal power heat loss and the ECU cutting back power. I'm not sure if my original statement was taken out of context without this information meaning the car can't perform at 100% all the time without a cooler. I mean it won't perform at 100% when the temps are up around 240-250 because of multiple reasons, one being the ECU and the other the laws of physics.

So basically, to maintain the most possible HP from the Z an oil cooler will delay the above two processes when the heat is starting to build up giving you a bit more power, until you finally heat soak the entire system. That is what I meant by running at 100% performance for the given conditions that will present themselves. :excited:

Design question here,..but I dont see why they just dont make the AN fitting or pressed part longer in length so as to add more strength or areas of contact (crimp) so that there is less chance of bursting?

Anyways,..I got lines with fittings made by Mike,..they look really good too. But since I just did my first oil change at 1500 miles, Im going to do regular 3000mile oil changes till there is more certainty with this problem...

people, post oil temps with the outdoor ambient temps.....

Plenty of observations in my DIY (link in my sig.)

Thanks for the info but wanted to see what sort of temps people are getting without and with the the oil cooler and track temps of the oil temp. What was the out door temp at the time of the measurement was taken :).