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370Z clutch line restriction

Originally Posted by juld0zer but... the R35 GT-R has no foot operated clutch? The same part is also used on various auto trans Nissan models. I'm guessing it could also

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Old 07-23-2013, 12:46 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
but... the R35 GT-R has no foot operated clutch?

The same part is also used on various auto trans Nissan models.
I'm guessing it could also double as a brake line coupler and that's where it might be used on the other cars.

If i'm cracking the lines open i'll be replacing it with a braided stainless one for the consistent pedal feel. But i don't enjoy the idea of cramped work space (no hoist) and brake fluid spewing. Maybe i'll just drain all the fluid first hmmm
That's correct. On other Nissan models such as the GT-R (R35), Q45 (F50), Pathfinder (R50), QX4 (JR50), M45 (Y34)...its used as a front brake fluid restrictor, I mean "connector".
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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this might be a dumb question, but why would a restrictor be necessary?

In a brake application, it would impede the function of ABS pulsating the brake.

In a clutch application it would as people have noticed, make the pedal feel inconsistent and delay clutch action.

Is it to reduce frothing from fluid rushing back too fast?

Most folks who have upgrade to a braided stainless line report smoother and more consistent clutch pedal feel. As expected, a lot of the consistency is due to the stiffer walls of a stainless braided hose but these replacement lines also eliminate the hard line that goes between the stock flex hose and the slave.
What is the purpose of this short section of hard line? (i guess the same question should be asked about the way the brakes lines are connected to our calipers - why is there a need for a short hard line between the rubber hose and the caliper?
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Old 07-24-2013, 10:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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it is made to smooth the clutch engagement so the clutch doesn't snap closed when you release the pedal. It makes the car appear smoother(which doesn't really work) and keeps you from shocking the drivetrain as much. On all firebirds and corvettes this little bass terd is in the middle of the frikin line and you need an 8" long 1/8 drill bit to drill it out as it has been known to plug when the fluid gets hot and old and totally F you in A after some hard driving. in brakes i would say it may play a role in residual pressure.
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Old 07-24-2013, 10:15 PM   #19 (permalink)
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that's a very good explanation - thanks!

why would the fluid 'plug' the orifice when hot though? unless you mean debris in old fluid accumulating? i cleaned out a layer of gunk at the bottom of the clutch fluid reservoir so i can imagine there's more crap further downstream :|

thanks again mate
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Old 07-26-2013, 02:56 AM   #20 (permalink)
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yup it's gunk for w/e reason it happened the most on old fluid while it was hotmaybe the heat made the csc stikier so it took less blockage to actual freeze it up? maybe the crap clumps together easier in hot fluid? i don't know on that one.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:14 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Old 12-25-2014, 06:11 PM   #22 (permalink)
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those who have stainless clutch lines, do you remember how big the hole in the banjo is? Not the one where the bolt goes thru but the one from the hose side.
I have a HEL line but the hole in the banjo looks smaller than the hole in the orifice i removed. Speaking of the orifice, wouldnt it be better to not use a joiner and just get a longer flexible line made up which connects straight to union before the orifice, direct to the slave bleeder block via banjo or union connection?
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