370Z Factory LSD: This thing is worse than I remembered

Sharif@Forged · 02-08-2010, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

I inquired about a new diff the last time my mechanic worked on the car. He said "no problem" but noted that a diff change is a real PITA. Said it's one of his least favorite things to do. Apparently it takes a lot of trial-and-error with shims to get things aligned properly.

The current aftermarket diffs are machined so precisely, that in only 1 case have we had to order different shims, especially given that everyone's OEM ring/pinion will be in low mileage/good condition. As long as he is experienced in working with rear ends, this isn't really that difficult of an install.

1slow370 · 02-09-2010, 03:52 AM

come on pick up the factory manual, a tube of marking paint, match stamp the caps so you don't put the wrong one on the wrong side and do work. On a new car most fit right away or are just a little off. you just assemble, torque, check with marking paint and if it doesn't run right in the middle of the pinion take the rear end in to a shop and have them shim it if you are lazy. My vote is quaife unlimted lifetime warranty and it doesn't require clutch changes.

ChrisSlicks · 02-09-2010, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

come on pick up the factory manual, a tube of marking paint, match stamp the caps so you don't put the wrong one on the wrong side and do work. On a new car most fit right away or are just a little off. you just assemble, torque, check with marking paint and if it doesn't run right in the middle of the pinion take the rear end in to a shop and have them shim it if you are lazy. My vote is quaife unlimted lifetime warranty and it doesn't require clutch changes.

Thanks! Ok I'm feeling a little more confident after finding this DIY for a 350Z Carbonetic which I imagine is identical.
http://www.350zmotoring.com/forums/d...tall-pics.html

The part that isn't clear to me is how you use the marking paint to ensure center alignment. Can you explain that part in a little more detail?

blackflag · 02-09-2010, 03:32 PM

The problem with Quaife, etc. is that (I think) you have to cut up the stub shafts...that's a big selling point, to me, for the Nismo unit. It comes with new shafts.

ChrisSlicks · 02-09-2010, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackflag

The problem with Quaife, etc. is that (I think) you have to cut up the stub shafts...that's a big selling point, to me, for the Nismo unit. It comes with new shafts.

Or go with the Carbonetic or OS Giken that uses the stock shafts.

blackflag · 02-09-2010, 04:43 PM

Good to know - thanks.

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02-09-2010, 03:52 AM	#2 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,733 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7252	come on pick up the factory manual, a tube of marking paint, match stamp the caps so you don't put the wrong one on the wrong side and do work. On a new car most fit right away or are just a little off. you just assemble, torque, check with marking paint and if it doesn't run right in the middle of the pinion take the rear end in to a shop and have them shim it if you are lazy. My vote is quaife unlimted lifetime warranty and it doesn't require clutch changes.

02-09-2010, 03:32 PM	#4 (permalink)
blackflag Base Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: US Posts: 121 Drives: 2009 Z 6M base. Rep Power: 17	The problem with Quaife, etc. is that (I think) you have to cut up the stub shafts...that's a big selling point, to me, for the Nismo unit. It comes with new shafts.

02-09-2010, 04:43 PM	#6 (permalink)
blackflag Base Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: US Posts: 121 Drives: 2009 Z 6M base. Rep Power: 17	Good to know - thanks.