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Need some advice on coolant bleed using the lisle spill free funnel

Originally Posted by Dreadnaught You will have to remove your drivers side air filter housing to access the bleed plug. You will need a Phillips screwdriver to turn it. Drain

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Old 11-04-2021, 10:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreadnaught View Post
You will have to remove your drivers side air filter housing to access the bleed plug. You will need a Phillips screwdriver to turn it.

Drain your coolant. Then remove your drivers side air box and remove the bleed plug. Close the petcock once the coolant is done draining then slowly fill the radiator. Have the bleed plug and your screwdriver ready to go so once coolant starts coming out of the bleed plug hole, you can put the bleed plug back in. Once you put the bleed plug in, continue to fill the radiator slowly.

Once the coolant is above the radiator fill neck, put the radiator cap back on. Fill your plastic coolant reservoir between the minimum and maximum lines. Then, start your car and let it get to operating temperature and feel your lower hose to ensure the T - stat has opened. Now, check and correct the fluid in the plastic reservoir once more then put the cap back on.

Finally road test your Z and monitor your coolant temperature.
Turn your heater on to help check if there is air in the system. Check your coolant in the plastic reservoir once more and correct as necessary.

Then
This is great stuff. I'll save this for future coolant jobs. Thanks mate!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fryzia23 View Post
You never mentioned if the car overheats during idle. If it doesn't then I think you bled it properly. I would say just let it idle with the funnel attached until radiator fan kicks in. Put the cap on and drive it. If heater wouldn't kick at all then there would be an air pocket but if it kicks in on high then its ok. The heater works based on outside temp sensor so if its pretty hot outside plus heat soaked from being stationary, it won't blow hot until set to max. It almost sounds like you're over thinking it little bit. Over the years wrenching on cars I have been there myself. Some times finishing jobs like that your brain thinks that there might be something wrong because all of the sudden you pay close attention to detail.
Yea sorry forgot to add that part. Oil and coolant temps were steady the whole bleeding process. No spikes. Radiator fan only kicked in with AC on at the start but once the car warmed up it turned on later with AC off. That's all with MAX heat settings. Interesting about the outside temp. Didn't know that's how heaters worked in our cars. Always thought it would blow hot hair dependant on your heat settings. And yes I do have a habit of overthinking things. Just scared about breaking something along the way or even after.



Any ideas on the rough idle part? I had smooth idle before I did the coolant job. Could air pockets cause rough idle?

Thanks again guys. This is helping alot.

Last edited by ZPWR; 11-04-2021 at 10:25 PM.
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