Need Advice: Next Engine or Intake Mods

[Lamchops]

Hello all,

I have a 2013 7AT 370Z. I have browsed the forums and got some great advice for my first ever round of mods.

I have modded it with:
- Invidia CBE
- Invidia HFC
- K&N Drop-ins
- Custom Uprev Dyno tune

I wanted to put in some post-MAF tubes but the ones I got were Mishimoto and for some reason they didn't fit.

I have attached my Dyno pre and post mods. My base was pretty high at about 194wkw. With all the listed mods and tune I hit about 223wkw.

I know Stillen Gen 3 CAI will be a large intake upgrade but I want to avoid that currently due to cost.

What would be some quick, easy and relatively inexpensive mods that can increase my power? Aiming for just mild gains, I would be happy with 225-235 wkw.

Thanks in advance!

[Spartan 1771]

Right now your intakes are a bottleneck. If you want more power and to maximize the potential for the mods you've already done, you need quality long tube cold air intakes. Squeezing more power out of this car isn't really easy or inexpensive.

I say save your cash and get a long tube CAI and then get a retune. The gains will be noticable.

Just my $0.02

[Spartan 1771]

Also, If I were to do it all over again, I would go with Z1s cold air intakes. Cheaper and easier to install.

[Lamchops]

Thanks for the response.

I have done a bit of reading and looks like the Z1 CAI have similar power gains (maybe a bit less) compared to the Stillen G3 CAI and has easier installation.

How is the sound volume with CAI? The sound with the CBE and HFC has a great note but is already a little bit loud for my liking.

Also for some reason there's a bit of drone at 2000-3000rpm especially noticeable at around 60mph. Would it be caused by the HFC? Is there a fix for this?

[jchammond]

Never really noticed much difference in sound from my cai; as I had the upgraded Z1 with the race version filters & large bases.
Pending on what your goals are & having the 7A/T, might want to consider a new diff & gear swap
Going from the 3.357 to the 3.692 makes a pretty big difference on the bottom end & midrange
Also allows you to get a true positive traction unit, like a Wavetrac helical or something of your choice.

[Spartan 1771]

HFC typically make a noticeable difference in sound and can cause drone and rasp. Adding a CAI shouldn't make it any worse. Typically CAI will make more of an engine growl under hard acceleration, but there won't be any difference under normal acceleration. Adding a CAI will then allow you to further mod the air intake by upgrading or porting your throttle bodies and the upper and lower manifolds.

Although a gear and diff swap will make a noticeable difference, they aren't easy to do and can be pretty expensive, especially if you have a mechanic do the work.

[JARblue]

If a set of G3 intakes is too expensive, then you have essentially already maxed out your power. A proper cold air intake is the logical next step as well as your least expensive next mod. After that it's porting and headers and cams (expensive parts with more expensive labor). Some of the parts might be affordable if you can DIY the installs.

[JLarson]

Originally Posted by Lamchops

Thanks for the response.

I have done a bit of reading and looks like the Z1 CAI have similar power gains (maybe a bit less) compared to the Stillen G3 CAI and has easier installation.

How is the sound volume with CAI? The sound with the CBE and HFC has a great note but is already a little bit loud for my liking.

Also for some reason there's a bit of drone at 2000-3000rpm especially noticeable at around 60mph. Would it be caused by the HFC? Is there a fix for this?

Sound of the CAI won't be noticeable over the exhaust. Drone will be largely the product of exhaust design.

[Spartan 1771]

The one other option you have is a lightweight / under drive crank pulley. You can pick up a pulley for about $125-$150, but the install is a PITA. Up until now I have done all my own work, but I'm considering having a reputable shop install it. They want $500 to do it. Again, this isn't exactly cheap and it will only add around 5whp, although throttle response is also improved.

[JARblue]

Originally Posted by Spartan 1771

The one other option you have is a lightweight / under drive crank pulley. You can pick up a pulley for about $125-$150, but the install is a PITA. Up until now I have done all my own work, but I'm considering having a reputable shop install it. They want $500 to do it. Again, this isn't exactly cheap and it will only add around 5whp, although throttle response is also improved.

None of the aftermarket lightweight crank pulleys are worth a damn. Get an ATI Super Damper or leave it alone.

[Spartan 1771]

Originally Posted by JARblue

None of the aftermarket lightweight crank pulleys are worth a damn. Get an ATI Super Damper or leave it alone.

Why do you say that? I remember reading positive reviews about the Stillen UD pulley, but that was quite awhile ago. I was planning to have it installed sometime over the summer, but now you have my attention. I don't want to wast time or money. What's your experience been with these?

[MattWll]

I think he meant that it is better to take a new one, the motor will be more intact)

[JARblue]

Originally Posted by Spartan 1771

Why do you say that? I remember reading positive reviews about the Stillen UD pulley, but that was quite awhile ago. I was planning to have it installed sometime over the summer, but now you have my attention. I don't want to wast time or money. What's your experience been with these?

No experience with the Stillen products - certainly don't hear much about their pulleys these days. But I wouldn't put an underdrive pulley on the car. It doesn't need it. The lightweight ones (like NST) are weak and prone to breaking - I know guys who had it happen on the street and on the track here in Texas.