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whats the most basic mods for our cars?
Getting ready to start modding my 09 370z a7. First things first, i wont be getting a tune for a bit(yes i know they are highly recommended), my question is...what are the "basic" mods for our cars? I plan on getting stillen gen 3 cais, full exhaust w/hfcs(undecided of what kind), and whatever else basic mods consist of. Any suggestions is appreciated, looking to get 300+ish whp without going fi.
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"Basic" mods will vary largely based on what you plan on doing with the car. With these cars, more power is only part of the equation as improving handling can yield more enjoyment than just power alone.
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I guess i mainly consider exhaust and cais basic mods..ive only had this car for a few months so idk a whole lot i can do other than cais and exhaust, i plan on spending around 2500-3k for right now, im more interested in going for numbers atm, it already handles pretty well, just looking to get more power
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I guess idk what all i can mod without going fi
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Looking for the biggest/easiest gains before getting into abytjing crazy or internally..if that makes sense
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A few good basic mods to start with would be a CBE and Swift springs.
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These would be a very good start.
CBE - $1150 CAI - $500 Swaybars - $350 34 row Engine Oil Cooler - $600 Just need brake pads and brake fluid after that if you want to track it. XP8 Pads $300 RBF600 $35 |
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CAI, CBE, tune. Probably best bang for buck if your not wanting to go forced induction. I did all the bolt ons (read my signature) and I regret it honestly. Car sounds great and is pretty quick but I want MOAR POWAAA. Diminishing returns really bad with 370zs after you install CAI and CBE. So I don't think you would see very much gains with plenum mods. For reference my Z made 330whp with a full axleback exhaust, intake and plenum + a tune. A Z with CAI,CBE and tune could probably make around 315whp.
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These cars are pretty much "maxed out" from the factory. I never saw any real gains (on my butt dyno) from any mods I did that were just bolt on. FI I think is the only real way to see numbers on the VQ.
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Whats the difference between a axleback and catback? I would go FI in the future but with my car being an auto...kinda makes me think about trying to switch for a 6spd. I guess i just want to try to maximize my power limit without going fi or using wet shot
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http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j5...kvscatback.jpg |
Ahhh ok that makes sense, i deff want a catback.
Would i be beneficial getting headers as well? Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk |
My mechanic is extremely knowledgeable when it comes to Zs. From what he's told me, if you're looking for legit hp gains, HFCs and a good cat back system are the best starting point followed by new software and tuning. I was leaning towards doing a CAI abut after talking with him, I'm convinced that it's more of a cherry on top than a priority mod. From what I've been told, the factory air intake is quite respectable. With tuning, a CAI will net you 5 hp at best. Prioritize the exhaust system, and branch out from there. If you're looking for a solid cat back system, Motordyne is the way to go.
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270whp w/K&N Drop-in's added FI TP's & Exhaust added Z1 cai drove 500+ miles & ran better,,,definite difference. Got on Dyno....290whp.....after tune 309whp & felt like a different car. Don't leave out the tune-just as/or more important than your bolt-on's! |
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I Disagree-depends on which one you got!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c065e27fb0.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Pic shown is with up-graded version of Z1's cai,,,,,additional 5-6rwhp.
I added this after my first tune. Using the stillen will move your maf's & unsure how it will effect your afr....test pipe's are probably the biggest bolt on gainer of them all. Factor in a Tune-you & your car won't regret it! |
For the exhaust after the cats,, think about where you're going to be spending the most time in the rev range. An x-pipe design may sacrifice some low-end torque, but will open up more potential hp at the top-end. Alternatively, an h-pipe can offer more low-end torque at the cost of top-end potential. Our cars aren't known for low-end torque, so a lot of people go with an x-pipe.
My car is my daily driver, so I'm liking the low-end that the AAM h pipe gives me. |
The factory cats are a huge bottleneck for exhaust flow. Test pipes are the best way to open up that flow, but are much louder and can have a strong smell. Would recommend getting a tune if you go with test pipes as you'll lose some low-end power and will probably trigger the SES light.
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i'll dig up a video from the strip 0-120.
TC turned on to prevent wheel spin. |
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https://vimeo.com/202582877 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Im actually looking at different cbe right now and konda leaning towards motordyne exhaustbwith indivia(?) test pipes..sounds nice and i hesr good things about motordyne, my only problem is i havent been around z's to know what are good brand and what to stay away from
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What makes test pipes better than others?
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You want louder-go non resonated. |
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Test pipes flow more freely and will give more top-end hp that stock cats or hi flow cats. Definitely the way to go if you aren't concerned with emissions.
I use Berk hi flow cats so I can pass VA inspection without being shady, and they provide pretty decent power over the OEM cats. I just got my 7at tuned at just under 319 whp with the Berks. I probably could have gotten a few more hp out of test pipes, but i like the result. For test pipes, consider the following 1. Internal diameter: some test pipes (I want to say berk and invidia) have an internal diameter of 60mm (2.36"). If you pick up a 2.5" cbe, you'll see the best result from test pipes with the same 2.5" diameter (like fast intentions or AAM). However, I haven't seen this explicitly tested for power differences. 2. Resonated v non-resonated - Resonated test pipes can cut down a bit on the drone of your exhaust, but are more expensive. At another level, ART pipes have a separate chamber that branches off the pipe and makes the sound much better (in my opinion), but these are the most expensive. 3. o2 bungs - extended o2 bungs reduce the chance of throwing a CEL. This would be a moot point if you get it tuned. You can also pick up bung extenders from vendors like Z For hi flow cats, look at the internal diameter, and the cell count. The lower the cell count, the better your exhaust will flow. Common cell counts are 200 (Berk, AAM), or 300 (Fast Intentions). |
If you want louder, definitely go non-resonated.
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Yep, test pipes would replace the cats
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I misued the term axleback. ( I was referring to a vehicle with a front axle) lol. I have a full exhaust not axleback.
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Test pipes will yield a bit more power than high flow cats. The reason I chose high flow cats is I didn't want my car to be loud bc my neighbors would hate me :rofl2: and it kinda gets annoying imo.(I had a straight piped 300zx lololol never again) Plus I need to pass emissions. |
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