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Unsure about motordyne; but if you go FI,,,be prepared to wait a while for them to be made...all of their exhaust system's are custom built & do fit well.
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If you plan on going with a low ride height, or if you have any extra modifications in the rear area (like the extended diff cover and rear anti-roll bar) the clearance is a bit limited with 3 inch piping. The area around my rear diff is crowded. |
Well i dont want something thats gonna be hanging low as i have to dodge potholes every 5 ft when i drive around here, but i did also plan on lowering my z a few inches
Looks like i cant really go wrong with either the fi or md cbe. I dont plan on doing a whole lot of modding to the rear end(as im not sure what mods are available) Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk |
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mine took the full 12-weeks....they may be quicker on the turn-a-round now.
ordered 1/12/16,,,received 4/14/16 (13-weeks) Love it & worth the wait. |
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If you're daily driving any distance, you'll want something that errs on the side of quiet (but still louder than stock) with no droning. The HKS would be a good choice in that regard because it's dead quiet at neutral throttle and when cruising on the highway but it'll scream nicely when at wide open throttle. I found the FI cat-back to be too loud honestly but it's a personal choice.
The other consideration is rasp. Some combinations of testpipes/high flow cats and certain exhausts produce rasp which many think sounds "cheap" but it's definitely not as pleasant-sounding as a smooth, deep exhaust note that sounds like ripping silk towards redline. |
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Some people might disagree with me but my favorite is hands down the GT Haus... no drone at cruising speeds, not too loud under 3k rpms so just driving around it's decently low and tame. But anything over 3k rpms and that thing screams! It's really loud when you stomp on it so it may not be for you, but I think it's perfect.
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Basic mods that'll bring out the goodies.......intake/exhaust, tune, nicer tires, oil cooler, and nicer pads. It's anything after this.
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I think im going to go with fi cbe and invidia test pipes, or would you guys recommend fi long tube headers?
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That'll be extremely loud. Just warning you now. I have a friend with a Motordyne Shockwave exhaust and their test pipes and I would not be able to drive it daily at all due to the decibel level and drone. Any aftermarket dual exhaust and test pipes (or long tube headers) will be a complete cop magnet from a mile away.
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Stock Nismo S-Tune Invidia - sounds good with test pipes, not too loud and no drone HKS FI Motordyne - Sounds perfect stock. Add test pipes for more roar on WOT GTHaus Tomei - Wouldnt recommend for daily use. Amuse R1000 I left comments on the systems i've run. |
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We're going to record some sound comparisons sometime this week. I'll post a video here too. |
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But like i said i also want performance too, not just all sound Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk |
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Source: I'm super loud. |
There's nothing cool about a loud and obnoxious sounding exhaust, IMHO.
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If the car is loud, it better be fast. ;)
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I got fast covered :tup: |
I have the stillen CBE and Z1 high flow cats. I love the sound. There's no annoying drone when cruising and it sounds awesome when you open it up! If you go with test pipes, you'll more than likely be getting drone when just crusing. ( don't know for a fact. some TP guys chime in on that.) it's all about what YOU want, there is no best or right answer.
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I have a 2015 Nismo.
Mods: Stillen Gen 3 intakes - $600, eBay test pipes - $115, Top Speed Pro-1 axle back exhaust - $300, ACT Lightweight Steel Flywheel (17.4lbs) - $400 (though I'm not sure this attributed to any power gains) Finally I got my car dyno tuned at Dynosty. I baselined at 311whp on a Dynojet dyno before the tune. With my Ecutek tune I ended up at 325whp. The total cost of the tune including dyno time, tuning license, and tuner cable-which you don't need to purchase if you're getting it dyno tuned-was around $1,000. It would have been $300 cheaper had I opted to not buy the cable. I've read stock Nismos usually dyno anywhere between 290-300whp. So for around $2k, give or take a few hundred dollars, you can add over 30whp with ease. Without a tune you could easily get over 300whp for around $1k. I hope this helps. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1abbca461.jpeg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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In all honestly im just looking to get as close to 320ish whp as i can get for around 2500ish(give or take a couple hundred) Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk |
Z1 motorsports(east coast) or specialty Z (west coast) imho.
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There's a lot of tuners who can tune you remotely.
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Im ocd as well so ill end up being picky as to who tunes my car
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You log a few runs on the car and email them to the tuner, who then sends you a map. You do that a couple of times and you're good. It's a NA Z with bolt-ons, there's just not that much to it.
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My favorite 3 mods so far are:
Oil cooler (Stillen) Lightweight performance brake rotors (Z1) LSD differential (Wavetrac) |
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I have one too :tup: |
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On a side note(to anyone)...with the a7, is there anyway the tc/vdc can be can tuned out to where i dont have to pull my brake light fuse to burn out? Havent really tried to burnout yet til i can afford new tires when i get my taxes but a few forums ive read said i have to pull the brake light fuse to be able to "fully" burnout Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk |
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wait.. you have to pull a fuse to burn out? In my G37 I was able to all day long by just switching VDC off. |
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I know i for one, was stopped at a stop light and turned vdc off and got the tires to spin but not much, almost like the tc was still trying to turn on...but then again i didnt exactly floor it either lol Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk |
Z1 Motorsport has the 400 hp kit which is all good
I love my quaife differential I love my SS Braided brake lines I love the Z1 big brakes upgrade (especially on track days) I put in a lightweight flywheel (6mt only) it really helped the motor response. (Faster revving for shifting) I recommend a tunable clutch pedal Or at least removal of helper spring TAKE OUT YOUR STEERING LOCK!!!!!!! |
Are you planning on installing this stuff yourself, or will you be taking it to the shop? The intake and cat-back installs aren't bad. The test pipe install is a little more tricky, mainly for getting to the "demon bolt". Long tube headers will be pretty difficult and time consuming.
If you do get a tune, be sure to do that last. |
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How is the 400hp from z1? Is it 400whp or to the crank? Was looking at it before but was iffy...didnt really see many reviews on it Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk |
whats the most basic mods for our cars?
I meant. TUNEABLE clutch pedal. Sorry that was a typo. It's a pedal that allows you to set pedal up exactly how you like it (engagement zone, freeboard take up rate... that kind of thing.)
Search for clutch helper spring here in the forum. It basically is a mod to help give more "feel" to your clutch. I have a tuned pedal and I love it!!! The 400 HP kit is crank hp. I put down 320 ish to the wheels. I love the kit but getting the down pipes in is a bit of a bitch. It can be done but a shop might be in order if you are not a DYI enthusiast!!! |
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For the 400 hp kit..am i able to use different downpipe as long as there the same i/d? Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk |
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