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Radiator cap? coolant leak

Speaking of hose leaks and clamps, notice the area pointed out by the arrow in the photo below. If the cap is leaking, why would there be coolant residue on

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Old 07-22-2016, 01:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Speaking of hose leaks and clamps, notice the area pointed out by the arrow in the photo below. If the cap is leaking, why would there be coolant residue on that small pipe in that particular area? Is that pipe ever substantially pressurized during normal operation?

Do you think that Nissan's small and large OEM hose clamps shown in this photo clamp down / seal those hoses against the pipes as well as say traditional stainless steel hose clamps that are tightened with a screw?

I ask because I'm wondering if I should save some time, travel and trouble and replace those two OEM clamps with those I just mentioned, because the more I think about it, the more I think that it is not the cap that is leaking.

Thanks.
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Old 07-22-2016, 01:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Darwins Child View Post
Speaking of hose leaks and clamps, notice the area pointed out by the arrow in the photo below. If the cap is leaking, why would there be coolant residue on that small pipe in that particular area? Is that pipe ever substantially pressurized during normal operation?

Do you think that Nissan's small and large OEM hose clamps shown in this photo clamp down / seal those hoses against the pipes as well as say traditional stainless steel hose clamps that are tightened with a screw?

I ask because I'm wondering if I should save some time, travel and trouble and replace those two OEM clamps with those I just mentioned, because the more I think about it, the more I think that it is not the cap that is leaking.

Thanks.
Usually the Oem clamps I prefer. Very rarely do I have issues with them. They are also nice because they eliminated the possibility to over tighten. People usually have a bad habit of over torque the screw type, the bands have a sharp edge and eventually cut through the hose. The Oem have nice smooth thick edges and can last a lifetime. Again I recommend cleaning and pressure testing. That will tell you right away.

Side question. Is yours a 2012 +? I can't read the cap but it looks to me like it has the pressure relief in it? If so and you have a 2012+ then that is the wrong cap. The one on the pipe should be solid, no relief and the one on the reservoir should have the pressure relief.
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Old 07-22-2016, 03:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jhill View Post
Usually the Oem clamps I prefer. Very rarely do I have issues with them. They are also nice because they eliminated the possibility to over tighten. People usually have a bad habit of over torque the screw type, the bands have a sharp edge and eventually cut through the hose. The Oem have nice smooth thick edges and can last a lifetime. Again I recommend cleaning and pressure testing. That will tell you right away.

Side question. Is yours a 2012 +? I can't read the cap but it looks to me like it has the pressure relief in it? If so and you have a 2012+ then that is the wrong cap. The one on the pipe should be solid, no relief and the one on the reservoir should have the pressure relief.
As the information under my username indicates, we have a 2014. If you look at the leftmost photo of my first post you can see the two removable caps of the coolant system. The one on the lower right of the photo is on the tank, and you can see that it has a pressure designation printed on it at about the 6 o'clock position. As you can see, the other cap - the one in question -- does not have a pressure designation printed on the label. Does this difference in labeling indicate to you that the questionable cap is indeed the correct one for its location?

By virtue of the locations of the dried coolant drops on the engine relative to the small relief pipe, I'm now thinking that it's possible that that pipe has a pin-hole in it, but this would not explain the residue on top of that pipe, near the hose and hose clamp.

Thanks, Jhill.
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