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Break In Period?

Originally Posted by WShade As a prior Mitsubishi owner, they leak as a brand due to improper engineering Yeah not quite. I have not one leak and I beat the

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Old 05-15-2009, 11:47 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by WShade View Post
As a prior Mitsubishi owner, they leak as a brand due to improper engineering
Yeah not quite. I have not one leak and I beat the **** out of my Evo.

On topic, your engine is broken in the first time it warms up. The only reason you should be easy on the car when it's brand new is because the clutch needs to be broken in.

I beat the piss out of my Evo on it's maiden voyage (test drive with 2.3 miles on the clock)... had it up to 150mph and launched it four times. The only issue I've had with the car in 42,000 miles is that I smoked my stock clutch at 8,000 miles due to a bad launch.

Don't be scared to run it like you plan to during the so-called break-in period. Just be mindful of your clutch.
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Old 05-22-2009, 07:12 PM   #32 (permalink)
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When my Z reaches 1200 miles, what is the best oil i can replace it with?

Thanks guys,

Grant
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:26 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Since this debate always rages endlessly, I'm not going to debate short vs. long. However, no matter when you decide to let loose, there's one rule that remains true:

Make sure the car is warmed up before you redline it.

The above is generally a good idea, but if you're doing early break-in, this holds doubly true - you want the parts to be at proper operating temperature before putting stress on the rings. Don't whale on your car when it's cold, and it should love you long time.
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:42 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Make sure the car is warmed up before you redline it.
Words of wisdom.
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Old 05-24-2009, 08:59 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by imag View Post
Since this debate always rages endlessly, I'm not going to debate short vs. long. However, no matter when you decide to let loose, there's one rule that remains true:

Make sure the car is warmed up before you redline it.

The above is generally a good idea, but if you're doing early break-in, this holds doubly true - you want the parts to be at proper operating temperature before putting stress on the rings. Don't whale on your car when it's cold, and it should love you long time.
Absolutely true.
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:07 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gmag21 View Post
When my Z reaches 1200 miles, what is the best oil i can replace it with?

Thanks guys,

Grant
You just opened another sacred can of worms!

I've been thinking about using Amsoil 100% Synthetic, but I think I'm going to use Castrol Syntec Blend (part dino, part synthetic) 5W30 at 1000 miles, then switch to Amsoil 100% Synthetic at 3000 miles. And I'll go with either a Purolator or Amsoil filter.
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:37 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyD View Post
I think we can all agree that inferences can be made from the VQ35DE and HR about the 3.7. That being said I remember an article in a reputable magazine (don't remember which one it was a long time ago). The article tracked two 2004 350Zs they were both dynoed within 500 miles of new with comparable results. After 20K of driving and opposite break ins the one that was constantly beat up dynoed almost 20HP higher than the one that had been babied.

I can say that at 22K miles my 350 pulled harder then it did that day I got it. I subscribe to the theory that a 500 mile break in with varrying revs and only moderate acceleration is a good thing. But when 500 miles ticks over I check the oil for contamination and excess metal. If nothing is out of the ordinary my next drive we be like I stole it and so will every drive after that.
If anyone could track down this article I would love to read it!
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:31 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

this method would definitely be considered aggressive. please note that it does not involve redlining the car or being harsh. just accelerate aggressively and engine brake.

to me, what is mandatory is 1: varying speed/revs during break in, 2: not putting in synthetic too early in the car's life, 3: warming up the car before driving hard.

after that, who knows what makes a difference?
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Old 06-14-2009, 03:43 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Default Hopes it will be fine.!

Just hit 5000 rpm,for 5 secs during overtaking,hopes won't hurt my 500 miles engine.....
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Old 06-14-2009, 03:56 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Just hit 5000 rpm,for 5 secs during overtaking,hopes won't hurt my 500 miles engine.....

It's fine! I wouldn't worry about it. I remember flooring it around 600 miles when this guy behind me was "literally" riding my bumper!
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:56 AM   #41 (permalink)
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thanks pal..
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:14 AM   #42 (permalink)
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My thought on it is simple:

If it's going to break, it's going to break. I'd rather it break NOW than later on...perhaps after the warranty expires.

With warranty denial claims - they have to PROVE it was your fault, and not bad worksmanship...

My car, which just hit around 425 on the odo...has seen the revlimiter a few times while I forgot that I was in auto-stick mode, and took off (oops!) - I'm not too concerned about it.

The more I drive it, the more power it seems to have. I chirped the tires in 3rd gear the other day. That little warning light came on (regarding loss of traction)

I can't beleive I debated between this car and a Mustang GT...ther's no contest IMHO now!
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Old 06-27-2009, 01:41 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Just hit 5000 rpm,for 5 secs during overtaking,hopes won't hurt my 500 miles engine.....
If your car had 10-15 miles on it when you got it, it has already seen the redline at full throttle from someone joyriding it on a test drive before you bought it. I know I did it a couple of times to know how much power it made and if it was enough performance.
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Old 06-27-2009, 02:24 PM   #44 (permalink)
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beat the snot out of it and make sure to trade it in before the powertrain warranty is up.
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Old 06-27-2009, 03:17 PM   #45 (permalink)
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beat the snot out of it and make sure to trade it in before the powertrain warranty is up.
Prime example of why I never buy used.
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