I have the JWT spacer currently and have no ground clearance issues. So if the new spacer would lead to same clearance I'm all in for a little extra capacity. Would you have to make a different spacer for the oil pump pickup as well?

as long as it clears my zspeed under tray then im all for it

Yes we could make a spacer that leads to that clearance if that is what you guys want. I will say if we can get at least 8 people in, I will figure out how to have them made.

I wouldnt personally recommend running the pan any lower than it is, but the decision is yours! Consider that if an aluminum pan is struck, it will not bend like a steel pan, it will just break wide open. I feel it is safer to keep the pan above the crossmember, hence its native design.

As for a pickup spacer, yes and no. Adding displacement vertically never requires additional pickup spacing because the oil level is set from the top of the engine by the dipstick. However, if you have room to go down, generally you do to take advantage of further reduction in oil starvation.

So my question wasn't half retarded lol. I was just curious. I have a JWT spacer sitting in my room and I really want this oil pan. I plan on doing a stroker motor and would love to have any additional oil cooling I could get

The spacer and it's added displacement won't offer any oil cooling properties, it is merely an oil temperature buffer. The extra displacement will cause it to take a moment longer for oil temperature to climb. To genuinely combat oil temperature directly, there is no substitute for a proper oil cooler.

Pickup extensions kits are done!

For the pans without any side ports, thats everything!

The custom -10 ORB reamer is here now and hopefully tomorrow I can put the side ports on the oil pans.

As for the non-sideport pans... I can start shipping on Friday.

I setup a page on the website for US residents to finish their transactions. Anything out of the US I have to process manually which is no trouble at all.

CJM Active Baffle Oil Pan, HR/VHR | CJ Motorsports

Anyone is welcome to complete their transaction at any time! Or let me know if you catch anything in error during the transaction.

Thanks

I guess I'll pass on the spacer idea then. Doesn't seem the added amount of oil would be worth much of anything.

paid

Paid

Paid

paid

paid!! wooooooooooooooooooo!

came in today to get the weekends payments processed and pack up the ones that are ready to go

I'll send payment tomorrow most likely. Still have payroll issues...

Paid.

The 2 BLUE anodized pans including yours are being prepped for anodizing today. They should be with the anodizer about Friday. Hopefully its not too long before we see them back.

No worries phunk, I'm 3k out from my next service interval. After all the patience you have shown me, I will not be rushing you by any means.

Thanks for the update.

paid!

Photo of the -10 o-ring ports on the side attached.

Starting tomorrow I will have the paid units with side ports begin shipping. The plugs and adapters I ordered for those ports will be here tomorrow.

:yum:

Guess it's time for me to pay so shipping can happen:excited:

Since yours has to be anodized, there is no rush on your part yet.

No worries. Looking back at the details list for my fittings, and this might be a obvious, the -6AN should be a male fitting for a swivel AN hose fitting and the 1/8NPT should be a female fitting to accept my temperature probe.

paid for black anodized

Just sent a PM, I'd love to get on the list for a black anodized pan!

you can buy mine if you want. Just pay phunk whatever extra it is for anodizing, and reimburse me the original amount.
I want to go V8 when my engine blows, and this isn't going to help that!

Actually, I just got the last one from phunk...

Mike if you make a plan for when your engine blows, your engine will never blow!!

Yes the last unit has been sold... so anyone else who wants one, I would recommend waiting a few weeks to place the order. There will be 12 more going into production in a few weeks... material is here.

edit: one more might become available, I will post up if it does

Yeah just ask djtodd. Spare motor waiting to go in after pops the stock one. 660whp all track miles still going strong.

How much power does he run the car at on the track? 660whp can barely hook up with 28" drag tires and zero camber.. id be surprised if anyone tracked a 370z over 525rwhp or so. Grip would be impossible

He might have a low boost setting. I know the final E85 tune from FI was like 659whp and some 550ish wtq.

Maybe he'll stumble across and respond.

Ya that would be like one of the most extreme cars on the road course to run it that way... would probably need full aero widebody slicks and a very custom fuel surge solution to move a rwd car around a road course at that power!

Got my CJ oil pan today. Thanks phunk for the piece of art work! Now I have to take a crack at getting off the stock oil pan. Last time I tried I couldn't get anything in there to pry it off.
Any recommendations on what kind of gasket to use when putting it back on?

A thin bladed screwdriver and a hammer. Once one section starts to lift. Go to another spot and try there. You don't want to put all the pressure in one spot. Also leave about 4 bolts in, loose. This way way when the pan pops loose. It won't make a mess. If you mark up the mating surface. Use a small very fine file to knock down the burr. For sealing. Use an rtv that is O2 sensor safe. I used the black rtv.

I use permatex Ultra-Gray for oil pans. Get the stock upper pan surface totally clean. Sometimes like a scotch pad or other light abrasive can be really useful for that, along with some brake cleaner for the residue.

With the new sealant I put a small bead all the way around and then use my finger tip to spread it to the entire contact surface area a rather thin coat - it doesnt take much and all the extra will squeeze out when tightening... but you do want to make surface the entire contact area has at least some coverage to be safe.

Just before lifting the pan up, I would use a q-tip or small tool to extract most of the sealant that I can from the bolt holes... this will prevent too much of the sealant getting into the threads which can be troublesome and cause over-torqueing as it lubricates the threads.

Go light on the oil drain plug... its just aluminum threads so it will not withstand over-torqueing too much. I can try and come up with a torque spec for it with some more testing but most people just do it be feel anyway.

Paid, PM for shipping details.

PMed for remainder owed.

Arrived!!!
Attachment 106876
Attachment 106877
More parts too pretty to hide up in the car!!

Winning!