24 because one was in the CNC being cut when I took the picture. :) There are 25.

I expect the left overs to sell quickly... as soon as these are done I am going to order 10 more bricks to make for inventory units.

PS updated you for black anodize

Yeah, I need a package deal, oil pan, S1.5 fuel system, CJM intake.... oh, and a few hundred thousand dollars. :p

OK I have you marked down for that. I will need you to confirm with me the threads of your oil temp sensor... generally they are 1/8 NPT or 1/8 BSPT, and then I can try and figure out where to drill and tap for it.

PM Sent

NICE!

VHR fuel rails are out of stock, waiting on a new fitting I want to try and use to get here... I am going to make some updates to them for the next batch. Already have material here for a huge batch of them, just havent cut them yet. I expect to start cutting them in less than 2 weeks, and rails go pretty quick compared to something like these oil pans.

No rush here. It'll be a winter project. I'll install your stuff over winter, hopefully the intake system is done by then, then I'll drive down to R/T Tuning to swap out uprev for Ecuteck, and figure out what I need to do to pass emissions here as I'll need to do that come Oct 2016. Good times.

Havent picked up a sensor yet. Just pick the most common and plug it and I will go from there later. Plan on picking one up this spring when I go with boost.

order confirmation
 

I checked your order list and the following is correct.

17: jrb55gh ADD: Oil Return Ports (Two Plugs), BLACK ANODIZE

Your original post says that black anodize is at no additional charge. Has that changed?

i have a brand new oil pan at home and i just poured water in there and it holds 50 oz of liquid .. i filled it to the top where water levels with the oil pan..

50z = 1.5625 qt... stock oil pan

so for ppl with oil pan spacers right now.. it should hold 1 extra qt..

82oz = 2.5625 qt ... stock oil pan with oil pan spacers

so phunk.. if u have time and wanna fill your baffle oil pan up .. u can compare the capacity with your pan vs stock and stock plus spacer..

hope this helps....

I can actually do it right in CAD.

The oil pan flange interior area offers 1.1 quarts per inch of depth.

The billet pan is 1.9" deep on the inside. 1.9x1.1 = 2.09 quarts inside, minus the minor space the baffles take up.

If the stock pan truly holds that much, than a spacer giving an extra quart would be putting the bottom of the pan over 1/2" lower than this one, which would be level or below the cross-member.

If we end up with lots of guys wanting anodizing and I cant sneak them in my other batches, the anodizer might tack on an over-sized item charge. But I dont imagine we will get to that. Theres only 6 requests for it.

Are you getting rid of the stock oil temp sensor? If so, you could use the port from that sensor for your aftermarket oil temp gauge.

Both 1/8 NPT and 1/8 BSPT are very common. It will depend on who manufactured the gauge.

I was thinking about changing the basic baffle top to have some short vertical areas like shown. I have to settle on the top baffle in the next day or two as the laser cutter will cut them in the next few days.

Anything to mitigate oil sloshing laterally is welcome as long as it doesn't impede oil returning to the pan.

I originally had the vertical walls further in-board, but I spaced them out to collect more of the oil returning from the rear of the engine without having to travel around the baffles

So we lose a half quart if we are replacing the spacer for this pan. Hopefully I won't notice that much in oil temperatures.

no clue.. i did it twice and i got the same result.. first time i used a measuring cup and the second time i used my gym shaker bottle lol

I cannot say for certain if you are losing any. We can figure on nismo13807's measurement being accurate enough to use... but I still dont have any exact measurement on the oil pan spacers. If they are a full 1" thick, they would displace 1.1 quart. You would be able to tell easily if your oil pan is at or lower than your crossmember.

As for oil temps, I cannot imagine noticing it at all. Oil capacity only acts as a buffer and slows down how quickly the oil system can gain or shed heat. I imagine that without adequate oil cooling, an extra half quart will only be able to slow oil temp for a few brief moments.

Im sure its close enough to go by! Even if you were off +/- as much as 10-15oz the overall effect is somewhat negligible.

i also happened to have a brand new z1 oil pan spacer in my room.. just measures it.. exactly 1 inch thick lol

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07...831a031b33.jpg

Looks like at or slightly below

Just confirmed in the garage. Definitely at or below.

What's your ETA on shipping? I may put a deposit on this with the fuel starve fix you PM'd me about.

Thats quite low, lower than my personal taste for anything aluminum.

Spacer Pros:
-Lower Cost
-More Volume ~0.5q

CJM Billet Pros:
-Higher Ground Clearance
-Machined-In surface area for improved heat dispersion
-Active interior baffles
-Bling Factor (roll-over in style)

Pending arrival of the laser cut top baffle plates, I could have the un-anodized ones ready to ship within 24 hours of setting my mind to the small finishing operations.

I am hoping to begin shipping some of these next week. Actually, anyone that is raw billet without the drain ports, I could ship as soon as the baffle tops arrive.

That figures, I have to do an oil change this weekend. Guess it will be next oil change when it get's installed. How long does the anodizing take, 1-2 weeks?

baffle screws safety wired
 

Will the screws that hold the baffles in place be drilled for safety wire or will they be self locking? I won't trust Locktite given the high oil temps the Z will see.

Usually about 2 weeks. They always quote 2-3 days, and then take 14-16 or so.

I can include drilled bolts. I like the idea of them too... even though the bolts would never fit through the oil pump pickup, and there are countless other non-wired small bolts in the crankcase LOL

Attachment 105701Attachment 105700It is not likely that the baffles would be removed very often so locking fasteners would be good to do the job of safety wire in the instance. Here are pictures of a couple of flange locking bolts that are available.

I ordered some pre-drilled screws to try out that will be here Monday. I wouldnt want to have to drill those little holes in those screws! They dont have the flange in them, my supplier doesnt carry any pre-drilled with flange or locking flange. I will supply the stainless wire for it also. For the screws I went with Black-Oxide alloy steel since its tensile strength (170,000psi) was more than double the prettier stainless variant (80,000psi).

They are 10-32 thread and 1/2" thread length. The prototype baffle top plate was .115" thick but for production I am going .060" to make it a little lighter. Well actually I told the laser cutter to play with it and if the .060" felt flimsy to just use the .115". The thicker plate is 9oz and far more sturdy than necessary, so I figured on going lighter and a few drops more oil capacity with thinner plate as long as its still sturdy... I left it up to him.

He plans to cut the baffles tomorrow, so I might have them by tuesday or wednesday.

I have no idea! I take it to 82-8400 rpm all the time and other than the normal bolt ons and tune, its all stock. 24000 miles on it at this point.

Phunk can you drop me a line tomorrow?

You got it!

Sent you something via PayPal. Looking forward to getting this thing installed.

Can we pay you a little extra for you to install the baffle and safety wire for us?

:iagree:

Probably LOL. I will play with it and check it out. Just waiting on the baffle plates. I am on his ***. Dealing with vendors is so frustrating!!!

The wire and the drilled screws are here, and the pans are pretty much done. Just have to start adding the oil drain ports for those customers. I havent done it yet because I am sitting on the fence thinking about using a NPT thread about the same size as the -10ORB because I think it might be better for most customers. I dont generally like NPT threads, but I think customers might like it better for tightening and feeling good about it being tight and leak free.

2 Photos attached... 1 showing the pans are done machining other than oil drains.

Second photo shows the baffle top plate that is being made.

I added the vertical wings and positioned them so that they will focus all the oil coming back from the rear of the engine / upper pan area into the sump area. They are positioned to recover most of that. Their exact position will make more sense when I post pictures of it with the upper pan attached from the inside.

My thought process on this was lets try and almost take the side wings of the lower pan out of the equation so that oil can recirculate more easily. With oil circulation mostly bypassing the outside wings of the pan, these wings serve just as oil displacement and as surge protection where oil can easily travel from the wing to the sump, but oil can only really get into the wing through oil level, which means there was a surplus of oil to spare for storage in the wing. I hope I am describing this in a way that makes sense. Basically I wanted the baffle system to not be a full time part of oil circulation, but to mostly act as walls and reduce sump area for oil to get away, but then these walls are also check valves to allow stored oil in the wings to enter.

Looks good Charles! I don't know how to do safety wire properly, so if it is a good idea then I would ask to have you install it as well.

Its really easy you just connect the 6 bolts together by running the wire through the holes in the bolts, easier than tying your shoes. This way they could never spin out. It actually doesnt even need wire anyway, its just a racey precaution.