clutch bites slow?

juld0zer

I dont have my Z anymore but what you can do is get a length of whipper snipper line and use that to simulate how you'll route it because a coathanger wont simulate the tendency of braided hose to not like bends.

Mine didnt look neat but i cut a hole in the wheel arch liner to make it neat enough.

Yes, definitely Motul RBF6xx fluid only and definitely get it wrapped in insulation like Earl's firesleeve although any fibreglass lined foil sleeve would be fine.

2010Nismo370z

i have the same problem for my stock clutch im not happy how it doesnt grab right away.....if i get a clutch kit flywheel master cylinder and slave cylinder like SOUTHBEND stage 3 clutch will it grab rite away like no DELAY perfect shifting WITHOUT any custom stuff or what?????

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RadioFlyer

Sorry, I was hoping someone else would be able to chime in on this issue. But I have a Southbend Stage 3 clutch and 'Quiet Disk' flywheel. Upgraded Zspeed CSC as well. I've noticed that *I think* it was an improvement, but I wasn't paying attention to this specific issue when I changed those parts out - my stock parts were slipping under power, so that was the focus. As far as the shift lag, I also reprogrammed my throttle tables at the same time, so that's why I was waiting for someone else to respond. The biggest differences aside from the new parts holding the power, was the weight of the clutch pedal and the grab point. But even with these parts, I'm still feeling a bit of delay on the release at high RPM's. So it might help, but if your parts are holding the power, I would think that the clutch delay valve would make more of a difference.

2010Nismo370z

im just disappointed at the issue since im used to shifting like a street bike haha I like NO DELAY....whats up with the delay valve I haven't heard of that

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2010Nismo370z

Bump

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RadioFlyer

Can someone take a picture of where this clutch damper valve is on a Z? Google only pulls up BMW threads.

2010Nismo370z

bump

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RadioFlyer

Second post in this thread.

RadioFlyer

Alright guys, I took care of this on my car. I ended up drilling it out because I couldn't find the union fitting. Here are my pics:

This is where it is located. You have to remove the rear half of the fender liner in the front left (front, driver's side) wheel well. Once you remove that, you will see this. The restrictor block is in the right side of the shot, in the bottom rear of the wheel well:



This is what the actual restrictor block looks like:



Close up of the restrictor block:



Once you remove the clutch lines and the mounting bolt in the center, you can pull it off the car. Here is a shot of the restriction:



I drilled it out with a 5/32" (4mm) drill bit. There isn't much to have to drill through. Basically, as soon as the bit started cutting, it fell through. Here is a shot of it drilled out:



Then everything gets bolted back together the same way as it came out of the car. Pretty simple.

After refilling and bleeding the clutch, I went out for a quick test drive, and I gotta say, it made a difference! It's hard to tell how much quicker it shifts since it's 40 degrees out, so I don't have any grip from my tires. On high rpm shifts, it either wheelspins, or traction control comes in and softens the shift. But the clutch feel improved, and I do think that helped remove the clutch delay. I'm excited to test this when it's warmer out.

2010Nismo370z

Pm me or post on here when u test plzz try today lol im really curious if it will be like street bike shifting no delay perfection reason why cause im trying to be in top 5 and fastest 6 speed all motor here in 1200 elevatiom AZ i wanna get on that list and maybe one day drive to sacramento 0 elevation and be second on that list cause guy that got 12.2 idk how he did it maybe it was like 30mph winds helping him lol

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RadioFlyer

Yes, if you're drag racing, definitely do this. Every tenth of a second counts!

Today it was much warmer and I had a chance to give it a try. Big difference. It's not sport bike quick, but it definitely makes a difference. If you really want to make it super quick, you might want to look into making a whole new steel braided line that connects directly from the master to the slave. You could probably cut off a foot of extra length by doing that, and you could make it out of a larger line. But short of doing that, drilling this out is probably the best you're going to get. If you trace the line from the master to the slave, there isn't any other restriction in it, so eliminating the restriction in this block, the next point of restriction would be the size of the line itself. Unless there is a restrictor in one of fittings, which is possible.

But definitely do this if you're running against a clock.

RadioFlyer

Good question. Not sure, it was ordered from Zspeed by the shop that did the install.

JARblue

I was just checking to make sure that it wasn't some other hd master I hadn't heard of that also fit the Z. I know Joe doesn't have any options for the Z, so that answers that

I've got one of the first batch of RJM Performance's new hd masters reserved. I expect to have the product in my hands and installed in the next couple weeks

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Ryan @ RJM

Unless its a prototype deal then as far as I'm aware they only offer replacement oem mc's and rebuild piston kits for the 370z and G37's. A quick photo of your mc from the engine bay side would show what it is though. I don't beleive there is any more room around the G37 master cylinder than on 370z and depending if you have an early model G37 the factory mc can be more difficult to remove then a 370z one.

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