Interesting Pedal Feel After Clutch Install

ShiftZ

Hey guys, been looking around the forums to try to find an answer to this but couldn't find anything.

I just got a Southbend stage 2 daily clutch kit from Joe at ZSpeed. Also new master and hd csc.

Before I start, I will say that this kit already feels infinitely better than the stock clutch. It feels like a real sports car instead of a spongy clutch family sedan.

The whole engagement of the clutch feels very smooth, firm and consistent. However, the top 1 inch of the pedal travel feels completely dead. It doesn't really feel like it is doing anything for the first inch, then after that you can feel the force from the pressure plate and it feels like a normal clutch.

It was bled well with a Motive Power bleeder and feels very consistent otherwise, so I don't think that is the issue.

My question is... has anyone else experienced this with a new clutch? Is this just part of normal break-in? (Only has about 50 miles since install.)

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2009 Monterey Blue 370Z, Touring Sport package, Swift Spec-R springs, Koni Yellow struts

JARblue

Did you do the install yourself? If not, what did the installing mechanic have to say about it? If so, have you asked Joe his thoughts about it?

I have the Z1 CSC Elimination Kit, and it has some dead play at the top that is totally normal from what I have been told by Z1. But I have a completely different set up than you - stock clutch at 60K+ miles, Z1 CSC EK, and RJM clutch pedal assembly.

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ShiftZ

I didn't do the install myself. The mechanic and I talked about it a little, basically just thinking we will let it break in and see if anything changes and go from there.

I think thats a good plan, just was curious if anyone with a similar setup has the same pedal feel. Haven't talked to Joe yet, might give him a call later today.

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2009 Monterey Blue 370Z, Touring Sport package, Swift Spec-R springs, Koni Yellow struts

ShiftZ

Does your RJM clutch pedal help get rid of any of that play?

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2009 Monterey Blue 370Z, Touring Sport package, Swift Spec-R springs, Koni Yellow struts

JARblue

Check the clevis fork on the master cylinder rod that connects to the clutch pedal. You might try disconnecting it from the pedal and screwing it further down the rod. And if necessary, make sure you adjust the clutch switches based on the alteration of the pedal travel. Any of this can be adjusted with the OEM or RJM clutch pedal assemblies.

My RJM pedal is completely unrelated the way I have it adjusted. If anything, I probably have a little more play than you. But I incorrectly installed the bleeder valve on the side (instead of the top) of the slave cylinder, so I've been wondering if I have a little more play due to a very small air bubble that I've haven't been able to bleed completely. I plan to switch the fittings when I need to bleed the clutch next, so I will find out at that time.

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jwick

I don't think its part of your issues but everything I've read and researched says don't use a power bleeder on our clutch system because the CMC has weak seals and won't hold up to it.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

BlackZeda

I had just the clutch and flywheel replaced with Jim Wolf Technology products, while the bearing was replaced it still OEM.

With just those changes the clutch pedal feel is completely different and much improved after driving it awhile now. What you are describing is what I immediately noticed. It feels like from no to full engagement is about a quarter of the previous travel distance, with about 3/4 of it being fully engaged and "dead".

With that being said the performance clutch has only improved the performance of the Z.

JARblue

I haven't used a power bleeder on the clutch system - is there even a fitting adapter for purchase for our clutch reservoir?

But I would bet it's fine if you keep the PSI down (not that I've done it). How much pressure do you think is put on the seals by just engaging the clutch pedal? I would probably keep the power bleeder around 7-8 PSI. Some people say to always use 15 PSI, but it's just not necessary. I use 10-12 on the brake system, and it works just fine.

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ShiftZ

Yeah, maybe this is a normal feeling after coming from the stock clutch. I wouldn't say my total travel has decreased much, but the engagement period is definitely longer. Rather than having a very short, high engagement (stock) it is now lower and longer. It is just the top 10% or so that is just useless pedal travel after the clutch is fully engaged.

But definitely agree... this setup is 100x better than stock either way.

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2009 Monterey Blue 370Z, Touring Sport package, Swift Spec-R springs, Koni Yellow struts

Joepro

The pedal has a small amount of adjustment, there is a rod on the back of the pedal that goes to the MC, this is typical however with and AM clutch from what I have seen on the Z, the engagement point moves down on the pedal travel.

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ShiftZ

So just to update everyone, the pedal has smoothed out. The pedal is no longer dead at the top like it was originally.

Here is my best guess of what was going on...

I think the brand new clutch just felt extra stiff in the beginning, possibly because the pressure plate had never been cycled. Because of this, you can very distinctly feel the spot where the pressure plate is fully engaged, then the rest of the pedal stroke felt very weak after that. Once I got about 75 miles on it (all city driving) it smoothed out quite a bit. I'm guessing the brand new out of the box clutch just had to be heat cycled and worked in a bit for it to smooth out.

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2009 Monterey Blue 370Z, Touring Sport package, Swift Spec-R springs, Koni Yellow struts